Extreme help needed ASAP

[ProtoPower13]

lol of course they can

 

[esnave09]

Sorry guys, but this thread has been JACKED!!!

I noticed I'm having the same issue kindof. I replaced the brakes on my car 3 weeks and almost 1k miles ago, and I just noticed last night that I'm having the same issue. It's been cold lately, and I didn't have the car running that long last night so my car wasn't quite up to temp. But the light came on once shortly after leaving my apartment (wasn't the first time I had stopped though) and I think it came on at one point right before I got to work. I checked the fluid and it was right in the middle of the reservoir, but I don't remember looking at the low/high marks. It did the same thing on my way home that night, except it came on a few stops into my drive and stayed on until I got home (about a mile). When I replaced my brakes I did the MZ6 swap with calipers from a junkyard and ceramic rotors and pads. I have noticed that when I make the first couple stops when the car is cold my brakes are super grabby, but they smooth out after the first minute or two. Is that normal with ceramics? Any other suggestions there? I'm gonna try topping off the fluid when I get back from class, but hopefully I don't have to replace anything!

 

[esnave09]

Alright, I checked the fluid and it's about a quarter to half inch about the min mark. I can top it off, but if I remember right I think that's where it was when I did the brake swap.

Also, I have no e-brake since doing the MZ6 brake swap. So right now the cables are loosely latched into one spot for the e-brake cables but they aren't super tight. I'm pretty sure they're still there, although I can go look before it gets dark. Does anyone think it could be the fact that my e-brake cable is not in tight?

 

[pcb]

Make sure your connection point on the caliper (where the p-brake cable attaches), is rotating when the handle is pulled.

I don't know about the MZ6 brakes but on original P5 rear brakes, it's the rotation of that connection point that operates the self-adjusters for the rear brakes. (your brake pistons might start to "float")

Having low brake fluid means it's time to inspect your brakes for wear. (or possibly a leak) (or unless your fluid wasn't to the full line after the brake swap combined with some wear and the brakes "seating" themselves)

Once the level drops to the min. line on the brake fluid reservoir you've probably got at least one brake pad somewhere that is just about to scrape metal. (or a badly worn brake rotor)

 

[esnave09]

I know that the MZ6 brakes are different, and I don't have the e-brake setup at all. There's the 2 connection points, and I only have the cable connected to one (one caliper is missing one, if I remember right). I've done some testing and I'm pretty sure the e-brake sensor that sets off the light is in the handle/lever. Once you almost get to the first click on the lever the light comes on.

But I did check the fluid level again and I guess it is right on the min line, and right about where it was earlier, maybe a little bit lower. Oops.... The light wasn't on when I went to work today (50ish degrees F outside) and when I left work a little while ago (35ish degrees) the light came on after the first or second stop. So I guess I might not have added enough fluid when I did the brake swap, and now the cold temp is making the fluid shrink/contract enough to set off the light?

Well hopefully it's not bad pads/rotors, since I just got them! So I'll fill up the fluid tomorrow (gotta nap before I get called back into work) or maybe tonight if I get called back in. Then I'll probably have a report in a few weeks....

 

[pcb]

I've done some testing and I'm pretty sure the e-brake sensor that sets off the light is in the handle/lever. Once you almost get to the first click on the lever the light comes on.

Both the handle/lever and float switch turn on the red brake light.



I don't think your fluid level should drop more than an inch that fast. Check for leaks and wear to be on the safe side.