Exhaust Header Problem

Sorry my post was in regards to the post before yours :)

But yes weight transfer and constants stress + heat cycles could cause the problem. Wrapping the header would exacerbate the problem IMO.

Ah ok. Yes you do have a point.
 
What I have noticed on my exhaust is there really is no place for the header end to flex like say a flex pipe of any kind.

*I forgot about the flex-pipe. Guess you'd need one with of a similar diameter as well. But if there is no-where to mount one, perhaps a spring loaded exhaust joint may suffice?

The exhaust bolts w/ springs really don't do much for the engine movement in relation to exhaust movement. When I first had installed a header in a Protege was back in 01-02 on an LX 2.0 and I went with a 626/MX6 header. I had to have the egr bung welded on and of course a custom midpipe which I opted for a new Cat as well. I did go ahead and remove the header rear flange and between it installed a flex pipe. Since when I had the Protege I never had a problem for the almost 5 years I owned it and the header held up great.

* Sounds excellent :)

I now have an ebay header with the EGR bung modified in the correct orientation and all went smooth like a stock install afterwards. I do plan on installing a flex pipe again though but also plan on a new full catback when I have the funds. I still have a MAM Cat-Less Midpipe I am thinking of installing as well.

* Is it the case in some states in the US, you have the choice as to whether you use a cat or not?

JJ
 
If you've got bad motor mounts it'll put lots of stress on your exhaust.

Yeah, absolutely..it's one reason I'd prefer to have an in-line RWDrive car. With the exception of the Camry I owned once, the 2 other FWDs had flex-pipe failures which were made worse by half buggered engine mounts and stay,..these were a Mini and an Austin 1800 [ a larger version of a Mini :)

JJ
 
* Is it the case in some states in the US, you have the choice as to whether you use a cat or not?

JJ

Well as far as using a Cat or not, If the vehicle was equipped with a Cat from factory to be sold/purchased in the US, it is illegal for you or someone else to remove it.

http://epa.gov/oar/caa/title2.html#iia

Catalytic Converter Wiki said:
" In the United States, for example, it is a violation of Section 203(a)(3)(A) of the 1990 Clean Air Act for a vehicle repair shop to remove a converter from a vehicle, or cause a converter to be removed from a vehicle, except in order to replace it with another converter, and Section 203(a)(3)(B) makes it illegal for any person to sell or to install any part that would bypass, defeat, or render inoperative any emission control system, device, or design element."

As far as Section 203, many just have to claim "for off road use only" and can get away with selling said test pipes.

You would need to really read your state statutes as well to further inform yourself in detail. Now given that some states don't require emissions testing, many remove it or gut them which to some is a compromise they make to air quality for the extra HP they may gain which I find really unnecessary. They do this sometimes as well to pass a visual inspection if their state so requires it. Read up on your local DEQ and the EPA about catalytic converters and their requirements.

Me personally even though I have lived in non-emission area for my entire life, for the most part of driving on the roadway when I did, I never removed my Cat. Not because I was a scared I would get fined. It was a personal choice. I still live in a non-emission area now but am required to go through emissions because I drive into an emission required area for work as to why I went through emissions.

Many will claim "who cares" but yea, I am one who does and to have a great running car that can be sold anywhere with no problems because it passed emissions is a great feeling. It only costs me $12 and change to do so every two years, no biggie.
 
Last edited:
Thanx,..I was just wondering, as having to buy hiflo catcons is a little irritating,..but the EPA know best :-I Out here it is a big deal to even adjust mixtures.

JJ
 
I added flex fitting to my hi flo catted midpipe & have had no issues for over 7 yrs. Running OBX hdr and 2.25 ss catback with Magnaflow muffler. Also running AWR inserts on drvr & pass side with RR insert in front mount. Rear mount is stock. Vibes are very tolerable virtually non-existent.
 
Last edited:
I added flex fitting to my hi flo catted midpipe & have had no issues for over 7 yrs. Running OBX hdr and 2.25 ss catback with Magnaflow muffler. Also running AWR inserts on drvr & pass side with RR insert in front mount. Rear mount is stock. Vibes are very tolerable virtually non-existent.

That's what I plan on doing except I took off my CS hangers for now. I plan on installing a flex pipe before I install a new cat when I get a new cat back. I am probably going to put up the MAM midpipe FS soon as I want to stick to using a Cat. I want a nice sounding muffler so I will be searching around the site for what members here are using.
 
I'll have to take another look at my motor mounts- my front mount is a new OEM Mazda part.

But my exhaust is a real frankenstein of a thing... Got the OBX header (I think... can't find a badge on it though), an SLS cat-less midpipe on it's 3rd replacement flex-pipe with a 22" resonator welded in, then a RB cat-back with (don't shoot me) a stock muffler. I've been progressively trying to quiet down my exhaust so I can enjoy music over the exhaust and CAI drone.

That extra resonator is pretty heavy, so I've been thinking that maybe that extra stress is cracking the header.

And yes, I did prep the metal with a wire-brush and an angle die grinder before welding. But it didn't even last a week before it cracked again around the new welds.

Thanks for all your inputs
 
Back