Electric Supercharger that looks legit???????

What about the horsepower loss of turning a 200amp alternator?
When generally you loose about 3hp just by running your headlights at night, yes I understand you have the batteries there so the alternator does not really see the load until it has to charge the batteries, and after that 15 seconds you wouldn't really need the power your losing anyways.

I think I would still rather have a normal turbo kit, in the end I would think the total cost would be the same, those 200amp alternators are about $350 each, then you need custom pipes made, mounting hardware, and all of that other stuff, I also dont really like the idea of adding 300lbs of batteries, wires and starter motors to my car


And if your remarks of people working in a burger joint are directed at me you can eat your own s***, I never have and never will work in a "burger joint"
If the way you intend to sway someones opinion is to openly insult them its not going to get you anywhere, like some of the others had asked how you are still in business I start to wonder myself when you come out to possible customers and say things such as you have.

I'm sorry to tell you this but your product will fail, I will tell you why, it is not popular, people have already heard to many bad things about the heater fans being sold on ebay as electric superchargers, so this generates doubt, second you are terrible in promoting your product and from the looks of it you already have a crappy reputation from previous products that you have made. You are not appealing to the right market, the car you showed as your test bed was a Dodge Avenger (looked like one didnt spend to much time on the site) I dont generally see to many people with any decent amount of cash driving one and I almost never see them modified, yes there are a few people that do buy these cars and try to mod them, these are also the idiots that are too damn poor to afford anything other than those "E-SUPERCHARGER's" off ebay, people are more likely to go with something that is completely proven and not something that has only been around for a couple of months, I own a 1986 Chrysler laser that is turbocharged and has well over 150000 miles on it and it still has the original turbo on it and it runs flawlessly on a turbo that is 17 YEARS OLD. That is something you did not talk about, how reliable is your system, how well does it hold up if it gets totally soaked in heavy rain?

I wouldn't want to ask you an intelligent qwestion, you dont seem like the person that would be able to answer a qwestion intellegently, more like a 5 year getting defensive when someone else calls him stupid, you call them stupid back and spout your ad campain about how other products cause powerloss, you talk about all of the disadvantages of other systems and you just say yours is better, tell us why yours is better, and not that it just has no parasitic power loss. You say your product can develop 15psi, thats all good and great but so what? a T-25 can develop 15psi, so can a frankenstein 6 turbo, but truth is that frank 6 will produce a shitload more power than the t25 at the same psi, I can fill a baloon to 15psi with my lungs, that doesnt mean I can use that 15psi in the baloon to turbocharge my car.

So Mr Knight lets hear some real answers and some hardcore fact about your system, I want to change my opinion, lets use my car as an example, a 96 neon, why would your kit be better than the stage 2 Hahn racecraft kit?
 
Fair enough--I dont recall you being critical of my company anyway. I will answer any questions you may have as they are practical questions and do not insults my company. I do get irritated when someone who likely has never owned anything I made, has likely never seen anything I have done, and almost guaranteed does not know me has the GALL to try to discredit my company OR my product. I am proud of what I have done in this business.

The car you see on the site is indeed a 96 Avenger, and that was the car I first started to test this system on over two years ago. It had exactly what I wanted for testing--a 24valve high efficiency V6 between 2.5 and 3.0 liter. That size motor is right in the middle of the typical import motor size, (1.8 to 3.5) and would be a goor representative of hp to be gained during testing. You must understand that there are dozens of cars with dozens of dyno runs which will be on my new website--the flash site--and to try and post all those high definition images on my old site is simply a waste. The new site launches in a few days.

It is not known that Turbo, Sport Compact, and Power Pages magazines wanted PROOF that this was a REAL ESC--not a bilge fan. I knew many of the editors and writers at those magazines from the past stories of systems I had designed and also had advertized in Turbo and Import Tuner for eight years. They wanted a fully independant company to do the dyno runs--they chose SFP because that company advertizes with those magazines and they knew SFP was honest and would not make false runs. So I needed to use what I had at that time allready finished and ready to go.

You mention a Neon--well I am building a 96 Neon ACR 5-speed DOHC as we speak. I am first doing the stock engine at 10 psi with slicks, clutch, header, etc. Then I am building the engine for full race, and expect to see 450-475hp. You also dont know that I have made over 30 psi with these blowers at 48V with custom aircooled motors and other mods. That was drawing 30,000 watts!!! From six 13lb batteries. Remember that BatCaps have huge power discharges and weigh very little, and I will be using eight 5-lb 800 amp batcaps for the Neon.

Two cars we are testing and dyno tuning this week are a 98 Altima 2.4 and a 2002 Ranger 2.5--both auto trans cars, and both done with the same independant testing. I could not get more testing done as this design was totally hidden till Sept, 2003. My employees and friends never ever got a chance to see it. I worked on it when they were gone. My patent attorney had warned about releasing info too soon as technology is copied and made overseas in a short time. I had to completely inundate the industry with an ad campaign so noone could make a similar unit before my name was synonymous with real ESC's.

Ask yourself this one question--how much $$$ do you think I have spent on the designing, patenting, ad campaign, and marketing of this? How about over a half mil!! Do you think anyone would be stupid enough to do that if this did not work?

My ESC weighs 42lb. I replace the stock 40lb battery with a 13lb battery, and that saves me the weight of two racing batteries. So with the ESC, and two batteries with another 18lb in cables I add 85-90lb to my car. Yet at 5-6 psi I gained 120hp with the ESC and headers. It does not matter whether anyone believs the info or not. The fact is that this system is TOTALLY non-parasitic. So what if the alternator draws an extra 5-6hp while charging the batteries when you drive--some AC compressors draw 12hp.

Another benefit is traction. I place most of the weight over the front wheels on a FWD car. Ask any serious racer if he would like to drop 3/10th on his 60ft times with an 85lb weight?

My Lotus Esprit with the custom SHO Yamaha-Cosworth V8 will make over 750hp with an ESC prototype. Some people will still be sceptical--until an ESC car spanks the life out of their turbo car at the same boost level. You will see. I already know the hp increase numbers on many cars.
 
My question is, will this be helpful to a car that is doing 30minute or even more than an hour long session (hot laps) on your favorite track? (Say, Willow Springs)?
 
sounds good to me but ONLY for drag racing, which is very limited and doesn't appeal to the average car enthusiast.
 
Yes, TKTurbos (Thomas Knight Turbos)
I will explain why this system will not work on a road race car for another few years. The draw of 1200 amps cant be done at the same time as the alternator is running. If one or two large alternators were added to turn the ESC the efficiency of transferring mechanical power into electrical power, and then turning electrical power back into mechannical would be a 25-40% efficiency loss. That is why hydraulic drive superchargers--like the PTO in a truck or on a tractor--would be inefficient for turning a supercharger--I know, as I built several hydraulic drive units.

The automotive industry is going to start to convert to 42V in 2006. Using ohm's law (watts=volts X amps), we see that the same power at 42V would be slightly less than 30% of what it is at 12V. So at higher voltage the ESC would only draw 300 amps instead of 1200. If a 200 amp 42V alternator were used, the ESC batteries would recharge at less than 2:1 so a 15 second run would be recharged in 30 seconds or less.

Once the rate reaches 1:1 a roadrace car could use it as accelleration is always less than decelleration and steady state times on a track. The batteries would hold a 30 second reserve and the unit would recharge while braking and cornering using regenerative braking by use of engine airflow through the supercharger acting as a generator. This is exactly what the engineers at some electronic speed controller companies have spoken with me about. One of the largest Golf Cart and EV car speed controller company has shown interest in a digital programmable speed controller that would control the discharge and recharge at the same time while allowing for programmable boost curves. The speed controller already exists, and the addition of a MAP sensor with tack signal would make the rest a simple system.

I have priced 200-250 amp alternators at $175-$200. Occasionally ebay has the alternators as well as the Hawker lighweight batteries brand new for 40% of retail from reputable sellers.
 
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
This comes to you via Probetalk, where one of the mods just recieved his TKT turbo kit...

"Let me just start out by saying that if any of you buy any Probe-related parts from Thomas Knight of TKT, I will personally come over and break your legs....


Alright....now that I aired that, let me talk about my TKT-built turbo kit that arrived today. I believe a half dozen monkeys armed with welding torches could have done a better job...

The rear bank collector is as follows - 2.25" pipe for the first 8-10 inches, which then is welded to a cruch bent ('crush' literally) 1.75"-2.25" in diameter over its length. It then is welded into a 1" iron elbow (yes, you read right, a 2" into 1" step-down restriction). Said elbow is welded into a hole cut in the turbine housing. Said hole is at a 90 degree angle to the flow of gas, in effect slowing down the turbine until the RPMs are high enough to overcome this restriction (the rear bank collector becomes pressurized, creating gas flow reversion until boost begins to build).

Next, the 3" downpipe - which is 3" in diameter after it passes through the 2" diameter restriction out of the turbine outlet.... and is beat with a HAMMER to clear the crossmember. The wastegate is in piss-poor shape as well.

Do you believe in miracles? Because it will be a miracle if this thing makes even 200 crank hp. Time will tell.

I'll have to replace 90% of the downpipe because it is crushed to half its diameter right before the flexpipe anyway.

I almost puked when I unpacked this thing today.

More good news - TKT was only using 2 (yes, TWO) of the 5 bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbine flange - 1 was broken, and 2 were WELDED over. I could shine a light through the crack between the downpipe and the turbine flange - no wonder Nick wasn't hitting full boost until 4k RPM.

This thing will need so much work, I wish I would have made my own kit. Because a KIT this thing isn't. Not to mention that it violates just about ever rule of kit-building there is....

TKT can ***** my **** and ****** the *******!"



Your welcome.

If your are the same person that this guy bought his turbo from, can you explain these issues. You talk of high quality and knowledge, it doesn't show through this product. Maybe none of us have seen your product, but this guy did and shared the info with us, so if this is a representation of your craftsmanship, then I'm sure no one here will want anything to do with you.

The fact is that this system is TOTALLY non-parasitic. So what if the alternator draws an extra 5-6hp while charging the batteries when you drive--some AC compressors draw 12hp.

You stated this in an earlier post, so if your setup is 100% non parasitic, how is this so if you are using the altenator to charge your battereis. The alternator takes power to turn it so this is not a true statement.

I was doubtfull about the batteries until you said you use batcaps. Batteries are heavy and every 100lbs takes 1/10th off your 1/4mile times, but if you are using these then I believe the output numbers you sated earlier, Batcaps are a great product. But the doubs are still there.

Here's the link to the thread this came from:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb225/showthread.php?threadid=3066
 
pdhaudio said:
scap!! haven't seen you online FOREVER! where u beeN??

I've been here.... just lurking. I haven't had much to add ;)



I've heard of the hydraulic S/C. The last I heard, it was still a prototype and there were no plans to put it into production. I think it sounds like a GREAT idea: the flexibility of a turbo with the throttle response of a S/C. YOu can get full boost at ALL points in the rpm range, and no turbo lag... Still a big parasitic load, but that's common to all forced induction applications...
 
Aricjm15 said:
where the hell would you find a 200amp alternator? a MAC ******* SEMI? they might as well say you need to mount a honda generator in your trunk

I have one in my car, and from what I was told, thats basicly where it came form :D
 
hmmm i might reroute my aircon ducts... could actually work..... cold air? freezing cold air... now i just gotta work out the finer points.... like making it work...

yes you probably can get gains, but at what loss? you get gains by turning the key, but at the loss of petrol....
hmmm thread is still open... go figure
 

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