Dyno with MBC @ 18psi

your not seeing that kind of boost where it makes peak power Ill tell you that. The stock dv leaks for sure. I tested it. Starts leaking bad at 12psi.

I just put a forge on the car and picked up 10whp from off idle to 4k and then around 20whp from 4k to 6.5k. I just havent posted the graph. That was on stock boost levels. would be alot more with a boost controller.

He's right. You can test it yourself with a DIY leak tester. Forge was the first thing i added along with a CAI.

Haltech would you say that you had gains like this?
 
You know, i cant give you a real honest answer because i did them both at the same time my friend.

Driver is a trust worthy guy and i wouldnt doubt his gains considering how well his car performs. Besides, i was the first person to NOT doubt him on his performance from the very beginning. Ive been around the block a few times and noticed things in his postings that proved that he was honest and that made sense. Others were very doubtful and giving him s*** without looking at the whole picture. I would take his word for it.
 
from the clips of the forge i've heard...ahh i can't stand the sound! I want to hear some more clips/feedback about the TXS BPV (not hybrid bov)
 
You know, i cant give you a real honest answer because i did them both at the same time my friend.

Driver is a trust worthy guy and i wouldnt doubt his gains considering how well his car performs. Besides, i was the first person to NOT doubt him on his performance from the very beginning. Ive been around the block a few times and noticed things in his postings that proved that he was honest and that made sense. Others were very doubtful and giving him s*** without looking at the whole picture. I would take his word for it.

I am not saying he is wrong. I thought maybe he had a bad stock valve, I figured that if you agreed than it would be a sure thing. Nig3 threw me off with his post.
but with a name like that...
 
I am not saying he is wrong. I thought maybe he had a bad stock valve, I figured that if you agreed than it would be a sure thing. Nig3 threw me off with his post.
but with a name like that...

Nigs good at throwing off threads, lol. But he is harmless.(rlaugh)
 
how well would an hks ssqv in recirc do in replacing the stocker? i can get great deal on one

Not trying to be rude by re-asking, just looking for an answer. I dont want my valve to be leaking, and I like the sound of the hks, and I DONT like the sound to the forge, so what other options do I have? Does anybody know if the hks with the recirculation fitting would hold enough boost? around 18 psi or so?
 
Not trying to be rude by re-asking, just looking for an answer. I dont want my valve to be leaking, and I like the sound of the hks, and I DONT like the sound to the forge, so what other options do I have? Does anybody know if the hks with the recirculation fitting would hold enough boost? around 18 psi or so?

Honestly speaking any kind of upgraded Bov that is a respectable company is going to hold up to that.

On another note ive had the Hks for about 9 months with a greddy electronic boost gauge for about the same amount of time and I havent had any problems, but Im not boosting... It seems to hold about 16-17 pretty consistantly though.
 
What people fail to realize is that turbochargers are a feedback system, self correcting to a certain extent. Sometimes but not always you can make the same boost level with a leaking valve as you can with one that is working properly, depending on how bad the leak is. But shaft-speed and charge air temps will differ.

Also, peak boost is not necessarily an indicator of a valve leaking or not. Many weakly sprung or poorly designed valves will leak at LOWER boost levels with little to no change in peak numbers.
 
Ive heard the Turbosmart one works well too. My Forge's flange was loose, so im not 100% confident it doesnt leak after i tightened it. Im just not in the mood to spend $300 on a TS valve.
 
My apologies for that, I've made the assembly guys aware of the problem so it shouldn't happen any longer.

If you are concerned feel free to ship the valve back to us and we can give it the once over to make sure that it is sealing.
 
The reason your peak wasnt higher is because with that setup the forge wont hold 18psi to redline. The stock dv wont allow it. Im guessing you were at 14psi where you peaked for whp. When i had your setup i had to spike 22psi to hit 18psi higher in the curve. The forge will help that alot. If you wanna hold boost even more then you will need to run a map clamp vs. the atp bcd.

Driver the "forge" wont hold the 18psi? or did you mean the Stock dump valve?
 
I wish somebody would put this to rest. I dynoed today and I was holding 17 psi through 4500 rpms and then it was falling off pretty hard to about 12-14 depending on the run..... all 4th gear though.

My hp lower in the range was showing 20-30 hp gains but my inprovement up top was just 13.

Thats with 17.4 on the standback, Begi FMIC, forge BPV(blue spring, one shim), and Corksport DP on since the last dyno.

Cold weather played a role....42 while I was on the dyno. But no fuel cut. A/F was 10's from 4500 on.

If nothing else... what spring should I be using at this point in the BPV. Oh and also.... on the drive home, I was holding 17 in 5-6 no problem. The falling boost only comes on in 4th and below.

For those with the standback set around 17psi... what boosts are you holding in all your gears? Ive got diarrhea mouth right now with all the questions, so I'll hit submit, and hope to be edujakated:)
 
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Blue is good for stock. I think you need to try the red and see what happens with the falling boost. Time to experiment my friend.
 
Ive been researching the standback just now and they show in their datalogging that the standback cant hold boost all the way to redline.....in gears 1-4. Exactly what seems to happening to me. They claim the throttle limits it. Im going back to some of their claims early on last year.

Now with the map clamp and bc on these other cars Ive not really heard if boost was being held to redline or not..... seems it was unless there was a problem.

Haltech.... the yellow spring is going in soon. I was planning to experiment. I just was wondering whether I was barking up a tree if this is what CPE claims about their own ems....ya know? Im not dogging it at all. My car is untuned(besides boost) and it pushed 300trq tonight, in pretty COLD weather on a wicked low dyno. And the car feels awful good:) Derek 88 drove it tonight, and felt a "significant difference" over his CAI/RP ms3.
 
Ive been researching the standback just now and they show in their datalogging that the standback cant hold boost all the way to redline.....in gears 1-4. Exactly what seems to happening to me. They claim the throttle limits it. Im going back to some of their claims early on last year.

Now with the map clamp and bc on these other cars Ive not really heard if boost was being held to redline or not..... seems it was unless there was a problem.

Haltech.... the yellow spring is going in soon. I was planning to experiment. I just was wondering whether I was barking up a tree if this is what CPE claims about their own ems....ya know? Im not dogging it at all. My car is untuned(besides boost) and it pushed 300trq tonight, in pretty COLD weather on a wicked low dyno. And the car feels awful good:) Derek 88 drove it tonight, and felt a "significant difference" over his CAI/RP ms3.

I totally understand how you're feeling there bro. I dont know what to say except wait to see what the Cobb AP brings us. Try the springs and see if there is a difference with boost holding up. Also, talk Loosh and Driver and see what their cars are doing. Driver is pumped and loving his car now that he has the hesitation problem fixed. It's frustrating, i know.
 
The fact is you gotta have a big boost spike to get the car to hold higher boost up top. my car will spike 22psi if I load it up but if I rail it through the gears its 18psi solid in 4th and 5th. Turn it up.

Ps. i wouldnt run anything less than the red spring in the forge. The car wont hold boost plain and simple without it. I tested all the different setups and this one works all around the best, and still blows off down low. I plan on running shims and redspring at the track. I wanna hold that boost. LOL
 
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Well I just talked to Driver and I think I had a false expectation of what "holding boost" means. I think I was "holding boost". Plus I looked at Lalooshs thread where he was datalogging his runs on his dashhawk....

In every gear it appears normal to spike 2-3 psi over the target psi....then hold it for 1000-2000 rpms before it slowly starts dropping a couple psi. This is typical. As a noob I guess I had visions of something else.

Driver said he was turning it up to the point he was spiking 23 holding 20 and falling of to 18 or so by redline on his big power runs. With the fuel pump going on soon, Im going to dial in 20. The car wont hold that because of the throttle plate or whatever..... youve got to do it in order to keep it in the 18-20 range at redline. Thats the only way to make huge power with our cars it seems.
 

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