Dyno done, time for cams.

[JustMe]

The problem is that this valve seal size I got from one company here in Estonia. The cam dealer is in Germany and they wanted to know what size of lashes I need. So no refund if the size is wrong.

Is there any online catalogue where I could find out the diameter of the valve seal or valve shaft?

 

[JustMe]

Now one more question, is it possible to measure valve shaft diameter from top, under the cams valve adjusting caps? If I take that cap off, I should see the valve shaft and with right tools I can measure the diameter?

 

[JustMe]

Just for the information - the valve shaft is 6mm in diameter.

 

[akhilleus]

Ahhh, shims...what memories....Why don't you take your shims to a machine shop and they can make ones that are thicker?

 

[JustMe]

I think it would be more expensive to get it done from special metal, since the shims are wearproof and specially treated for that strenght. Anyway, tomorrow will order valve lash caps, those are good for other reason also: Hardened valve lash caps prevent the tips from mushrooming under the load of heavy valve spring pressure.

So when I will add stiffer valve springs in the future, this will strenghten the life of valves.

[QUOTE]Ahhh, shims...what memories....Why don't you take your shims to a machine shop and they can make ones that are thicker?[/QUOTE]

 

[flat_black]

Hmm... What sizes did you end up ordering? I've been looking for info on this for a good, long while.

 

[JustMe]

Well, valve lash caps I will order with the inside diameter of 6mm, they go right on top of the valve shaft and then I can use original valve shims. If you meant that?

Valve lash cap:

Hmm... What sizes did you end up ordering? I've been looking for info on this for a good, long while.

 

[flat_black]

Ooh, okay. I thought you were getting a set of shims for it. Do you happen to know what the dimensions of the shims are, by any chance?

 

[JustMe]

Valve shims are 27mm in diameter. But the thickness of the shims varies from 1.5mm->3.5 in the steps of 0.05mm. So there would be 16x40 shims of different sizes. For valve adjusting it would be more useful to go to the dealers and let them do it, they charge you only for the shims they used.

And for wear out, you never know what size you need before you have checked it.

Ooh, okay. I thought you were getting a set of shims for it. Do you happen to know what the dimensions of the shims are, by any chance?

 

[peepsalot]

what's a valve shim? a shim that goes on one side of the spring to tighten it up?

 

[flat_black]

Yep, I know that I'll need to know in advance what I'll need, and can measure it myself. I have a few feeler gauges. But I'm using regrinds, and to shim them up to proper specs, I just wanted to know what the diameter was to start with, first off.

Peeps, yes, a valve shim sits atop the valve and spring assembly, and spaces the cam and assembly enough so there's minimal noise and proper lift, and so on. =)

 

[JustMe]

This on the left of the picture sits on top of the valveshaft, a valve shift is a shim on that. By changin the sims with different sizes you get the right space between the valve and cam lobe.

http://members.aol.com/solomiata2/liftercomptop.jpg

 

[JustMe]

Today received the lash caps:
http://www.hot.ee/mazda323/nukad/lash%20caps.jpg

Hopefully get these installed and valves adjusted today and then tomorrow or wednesday on a dyno

Stay tuned (spin)

 

[twilightprotege]

good good!

 

[JustMe]

(yippy)
Car is back together, valves adjusted, cams adjusted

Got this dyno graph also sorted out, red is calculated engine hp, blu is torque, green is wheel kw ( 1 kw = 1.36hp ).

Last time on a dyno the results were following
107whp@6500 - 145.8 engine hp(107kw)@6500 - [email="173.1Nm@4500"]173.1Nm@4500[/email]

With new cams without adjustment of the cam gears the results were followin:
114whp@6500 - 152 engine hp@6500 - 173Nm@5500

Unfortunately I don't have a graph of this run, since the printer of the dyno decided not to work, but the the graph was something like this : hp was going up like usual, but torque was before 5500rpm about 10-15Nm lower than this 145hp run.


Then we adjusted the cams like the cam company said on the cam sheet.
At TDC, the 4th cylinder intake valve has to be opened 1.0mm and exhaust 0.85mm. Have to check how many degrees exactly it is on cam gears.

We'll here are the results of the adjusted cams:
122whp@6500 - 160.7 engine hp(118kw)@6500 - [email="187.6Nm@4600"]187.6Nm@4600[/email]

In conclusion, the cams got me 15whp at top and 14Nm over the powerband. Pretty good results I think.
AFR showed around 13 at full throttle higher rpms.

Now would need the ECU but that got to wait for a while.
Anyway, I'm happy at the moment

 

[peepsalot]

Very nice! Congrats.

 

[twilightprotege]

yeah find out the degrees for me if you can. that shows just how much i need to dial my cams in

anyway, that's a pretty good increase! i'm sure that'll feel like a nice increase!

 

[vindication]

wow, good stuff right there

 

[twilightprotege]

this weekend I am so fixing up my head cover so I can easily access the cam gears so I can get them dyno dialed in.

8whp and 14nm torque is a awesome increase for just dialing the cams in

 

[Gen1GT]

Good job, nice results....