Did anyone remove their VCTS?

[hinman403]

I have read a article from another forum that it show how to remove the Variable Control Throttle System (VCTS) from the intake manifold. I was wondering did anyone from here have done this mod? How's the fuel mileage after?

 

[NCZ13]

im assuming because you posted in here you have a 3?

i dont think the 3 has vtcs

 

[hinman403]

im assuming because you posted in here you have a 3?

i dont think the 3 has vtcs

Yes it does actually. Is locatced at the intake manifold where it meets the cylinder head.

According to the article, I am suppose to remove the yellow parts in the picture, which is the valve. This mod are suppose to give a smoother acc and more faster throttle respond.

 

[MZRt3]

Yeah I did it! It's called VTCS Variable Tumble Control System. It's supposed to smooth out the air flow and torque curve. Very easy to do. How ever without a turbo I think it's kind of a waste of time. An hour to remove and I
didn't really feel any real difference.

 

[MightyMouse]

I am about to do this mod myself. I had the intake manifold replaced under warranty because the VTCS valves were loose and really noisy. It is 6 months later, and the valves are loose again!! UGH! This time, I am just going to pull off the manifold and remove the throttle plates. This is mainly just to shut the motor up, but if there is any kind of performance benefit, I will be happy.

 

[Rhon]

Is that what causes the slight hesitation when you hit the throttle? Or am I thinking about something else?

Wonder what would happen to the warranty if I pop it out?

 

[MightyMouse]

Is that what causes the slight hesitation when you hit the throttle? Or am I thinking about something else?

Wonder what would happen to the warranty if I pop it out?

Should not cause a hesitation. It is purely a really loud knocking noise from the engine. Almost sounds like a rod bearing going, but if you disconnect the vaccum line from the VTCS control solenoid, the noise goes away.

 

[rayarnold]

Wonder what would happen to the warranty if I pop it out?

It'll pop out too?

 

[Chibana]

Should not cause a hesitation. It is purely a really loud knocking noise from the engine. Almost sounds like a rod bearing going, but if you disconnect the vaccum line from the VTCS control solenoid, the noise goes away.

I don't believe I've ever heard mine make any noise that I can hear.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this feature specifically to increase low and mid-range torque, while still giving it high-RPM power by varying the intake path lengths? That's a good thing in my book, not bad.

 

[MightyMouse]

I don't believe I've ever heard mine make any noise that I can hear.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this feature specifically to increase low and mid-range torque, while still giving it high-RPM power by varying the intake path lengths? That's a good thing in my book, not bad.

You are thinking of the VICS system. The VCTS system acts like a choke during cold, low RPM operation. It almost completely blocks off the intake runners when the engine is cold, and forces the air to "tumble" as it enters the combustion chamber. This allows for more complete combustion while the engine is warming up. It is basically an emission device. But, it also partially blocks the intake runners during normal temperature operation.

 

[wanna rally]

is there a how-to on how to do this?

 

[techspeak]

I wonder when they'll get that VTCS right? They need to figure out a better way to cause 'tumbling' instead of this metal or plastic plate that wears out and comes loose due to how much occilating force it goes through...

 

[tigermack]

I did mine with my buddy just last week... felt much better on throttle.

 

[FrancoNemo]

hhmmmm anymore mazda3 done this!? is it worth doing!?

 

[tigermack]

It's free, I think it's worth it. The feel is much different.

 

[MightyMouse]

Well, I removed the VTCS valves on my 2.3 Mazda3.

What a mistake!!!!!

In any temperatures near or below freezing, the car is almost undrivable until the car is up to near full operating temp. The car bucks, and sputters until it hits about 4000 RPM, then it just takes off. Driving in snow out of the driveway is almost impossible. Either the car just sputters and falls on it's face, or it just goes WOT and spins the wheels. After it fully warms up it is normal, but it is just not worth it. The benefit is barely noticable.

Also, my fuel economy has gone into the crapper. My last tank went down to 350km before the light came on, where before I would get around 450km before the light came on.

I will be putting the valves back in as soon as possible.........

 

[techspeak]

yikes! sounds like you screwed up

 

[MightyMouse]

yikes! sounds like you screwed up

Nope. I know what I'm doing...

I guess the people who do not have problems do not have to drive in deep snow when it is 10 deg below freezing ...ha ha, I wish...

I even had a cop give me a hard time as I went by him on an onramp with the car backfiring every second or two.

 

[m.o.b.s.]

I took mine out, but I live in Texas. After a cold start it idles a little high, sputters a little bit once or twice, then everything is fine. It was my understanding that the VTCS aided in cold starts, so I can see how you might have problems at those temperatures.