Designing Active 3-way SQ system

[CX7nCali]

Not sure if I'm going to do this yet, but thought I'd share the research.
I have been involved with SQ (sound quality) car audio for many years.
This is the system I'd build for a sub-less SQ system in the CX-7:

HU (head unit):
Alpine IVA-W205
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=IVA-W205

Processor:
(audio connected optically, and ai-net controlled by W205)
Allows only one D/A conversion after all processing in the original digital domain,
short analog run with processor near amp/s, 8ch DSP for time-alignment/crossovers/multiple 31-band EQs
Alpine PXA-H701
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=PXA-H701

Amps:
Alpine PDX amps (4.100 for midrange and tweeters, 2.150 for midbass)
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/series-c.php?category=AMP
or
Arc Audio XXK amps (4150XXK, 2500XXK)
http://www.arcaudio.com/arc-05/amplifiers/xxk_4150.htm
http://www.arcaudio.com/arc-05/amplifiers/xxk_2500.htm
or
DLS Ultimate (A4, A3)
http://www.mobilesq.com/shop/index.php?cPath=26_46_47

Front door midbass:
Peerless 8" 830667
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1386
or
Seas 8" L22RN4X/P
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_257&products_id=821
or
Hybrid Audio 8.5" L8
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/legatia_individual_drivers.htm

Yes, using 8 ohm drivers is perfectly ok. More info at this DIY forum:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31&

Midrange in dash:
(depends on usable space where the Bose 3.5" sits)
Hybrid Audio L3 perfect fit, or L4 squeezed in for more dynamics
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/legatia_individual_drivers.htm
or
Peerless TG9FD10-04
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=143&products_id=1616
or
Seas W12CY-003 Nextel squeezed in
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=700

Tweeter:
Mounted on or in dash near the midrange (perhaps bridged over, like CDT)
Hybrid Audio L1
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/legatia_individual_drivers.htm
or
Seas H1397
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id=633

Hybrid Audio has an 8.5" coming out soon as well, for a L8+L3+L1 combo. But the other midbass options are a lot less money and are known to perform very well with high output and snappy bass. Regardless of which midbass is chosen, I think it is very likely to be a sub-less setup.

Another option later on....
Not necessary, but here's another idea I may tackle if the front stage doesn't need a sub:

I may use the remaining 2ch of the H701 to create a L-R rear fill for ambience. (that's Left minus Right to cancel same audio and leave the extras. This would need specific time-alignment, and the use of a phase shifter, of which I already have a Precision Power PSC-221 that is rare to find these days. The use of the rear door woofers and D-pillar full-range would work for this... plus another 2ch amp, like an Arc Audio 2050XXK. ---- idea from werewolf on http://www.elitecaraudio.com

Of course don't forget to use plenty of sound dampening material, such as RAAMmat BXT and Ensolite. http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr

My previous system was:
Clarion DXZ9255 (dual 24-bit DACs and awesome SQ).
----It's the only all-in-one 8ch DSP HU.
Arc Audio 4150XXK 4ch amp for front 2-way passive and sub.
Oz Audio Matrix Elite 180CS components (6.5" in doors, 1" in a-pillars).
Image Dynamics IDQ12 sealed.
Doors dampened in and out, and deflex pads.
Great sound with a very up front and high soundstage.

 

[chillinchileno]

if you want like almost perfect sound quality and not a FATTY headache, get some 3 way components from kicker or Eclipse in the front and some nice coax in the rear, a higher power 4 channel amp, and a high preamp radio.... im not a fan of mixing speakers w/o the proper crossovers... wayyy to much tuning is what your gonna run yourself into

 

[CX7nCali]

if you want like almost perfect sound quality and not a FATTY headache, get some 3 way components from kicker or Eclipse in the front and some nice coax in the rear, a higher power 4 channel amp, and a high preamp radio.... im not a fan of mixing speakers w/o the proper crossovers... wayyy to much tuning is what your gonna run yourself into

yo dude, you are so way off with that statement

Is it more work? Of course. It's a frackin' car with a hard to tame interior and external noise. But hey, this is the hobby that some of us enjoy improving on and dealing with the challenges.

As for Kicker or Eclipse, they are no where near the SQ potential as the drivers I listed above. It is night and day difference.

1) going active is the path to better SQ
2) going active allows you to have individual control over different speakers
3) the whole point of the H701 is to have the tuning abilities
4) mixing the right set of speakers and doing a kickazz install is key

Check out http://www.diymobileaudio.com if you want to dive into DIY car audio. There are a lot of reviews and tutorials there. You can also check out http://www.elitecaraudio.com

Having built a number of systems, they didn't really sound great until I took a chance and started mixing and matching components to create the sound I wanted.

Last setup:
DRZ9255 was neutral and slightly warm
Arc XXK amps were dynamic and open
Oz drivers were warm and laid back
IDQ sub was transparent and tight
That combination created a sweet spot for me.

What was lacking? Stage depth and width, midbass response, upper-end sparkle. That is being picky. Anyone who auditioned that setup was blown away. Especially my home audio buddies who swore you couldn't build an enjoyable space in the car. I must add, the DRZ9255 is amazing. The detail it produced presented audio I hadn't noticed before in the same exact setup with 3 other top HUs.

Going active will open up and be more detailed and airy, plus the extra control will add to building a better stage. Stepping up to better speakers, such as Seas L22 or Peerless SLS 8" for rockin' midbass, Seas or similar midrange for a sweet and detailed vocal range, then a Seas or similar tweeter to open up the top-end with air and detail. A better install will help with staging. And the H701 processor will also offer multiple 31-band EQs to smooth out the frequency response. The levels and FR will need to be measured via laptop and mic to dial it all in.

Don't get me wrong, you can build very nice sounding systems with passive components, but they are being held back in the car environment.

Going active with a good processor helps to deal with the not-so-great car interior. (off-axis mounting, numerous reflective surfaces, path length differences, etc.)

 

[chillinchileno]

from what ive heard they sound great to me, but of course thats one's opinion to another. i make sense of the post... now im curious if you pull through with that...

how does the raamaudio dampener compare to other brands like dynamat ie accuracy, thickness, weight, exe...

 

[CX7nCali]

check this out
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com