Daily-Driven big turbo MSP Build up

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'03.5 MSP(Yellow!)
please PM me if pictures don't work.
-Mateo


Alllrighty then, thought I'd finally start putting together a little project page for my build. My plans for the car were originally to get a gt28rs, mount it on the stock manifold, do a bare-bones rebuild with forged internals and basically stock everything else.

That eventually made its way into the following insane project that has now eaten my entire bank account:

forged motor(CP pistons, oliver rods), .020" overbored, knife-edged and stress-relieved crank, ported head and intake manifold, HiBoost t3 internal wastegate exhuast manifold, t3 super 60 Internal Wastegate, custom front-mount intercooler, hardpipes in stainless(should have done aluminum), custom 2.5" DP and 3" exhuast, with one 3" cat, one 3" resonator, and a 3" flowmaster 50 series muffler.

Fuel mods include WRX 440cc injectors(cheap!), Accufab FPR, AN-6 fuel lines, CPR fuel rail (full custom CNC'd, on the way), and Megasquirt fuel management. for more information on the megasquirt side of things, click here. Ignition is also controlled by Megasquirt, using ford's EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System, basically the same thing as what's stock on the protege, just with a seperate ignition control module in addition to the PCM).

Body Mods: none! and i like it that way!

Suspension mods: correct alignment(toe out on the rear!), and the delsing motorsport rear bar brackets, adjustable bar soon to come.

Interior Mods: sirius, wimpy single 12" sub to round out the sound of the stock stuff, Corbeau CR1 seat(reclinable, woohoo!), Autopower bar on order, 6pt. G-force belts on order.

That's about it, check this out for more pics:

-Mateo
 
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what made you switch from the GT28rs to the T3 super 60?

knife-edge the crank..nice..dont think many people have done it, I could be wrong tho..
 
what's that overbore put your displacement at? .20, is that inches or what? I don't know what the stock bore and stroke are to do the calculation.
 
I too would like to know why you chose the T3 over a GT28RS... Money maybe?
 
I can take a wild guess as to why the T3 super 60 over the GT28RS.....It's called CFM. I believe the T3 Super 60 puts out alot more CFM. With more CFM you don't have to run as high a psi to make the same power. With lower pressures you have lower temps, with lower temps you can run more timing.
 
Opps my mistake. Just looked up the info on the two turbos and they make the same cfm. However the T3 Super 60 has a smaller trim wheel on the turbine than the GT28RS which I might be mistaken but I believe means that the T3 Super 60 will spool up a little sooner.
 
KzA said:
what made you switch from the GT28rs to the T3 super 60?

knife-edge the crank..nice..dont think many people have done it, I could be wrong tho..

someone i knew here at Tech had one for sale, freshly rebuilt with flanges, wastegate, etc. for just 400, and i didn't have to bother with water lines. so i just went for it. It turned out extrememly well. beautiful spool time, great efficiency range. and yeah, very few people knife-edge their crank b/c it's very expensive (like $100 a half-pound off or something), but not when you know the machinist:-)


peepsalot, it's a .020" overbore. CP's are available in standard sizes only, no metrics:-( I meant to put .020, not .2. .2 would be touching the next cyclinder wall, i do believe.

Reffoxel, this has been a very interesting topic for me in the past several weeks. My buddy just built up a VW 2.0L turbo motor with Megasquirt and so forth, very similar to my build (we did them together as a bit of a competition, and he has a 28rs. the turbo does indeed have a larger turbine wheel, meaning it will spool slower and introduce less heat into the exhuast system due to blockage of a small turbine wheel, but the ball-bearing, water-cooled center section counters that, so it actually ends up spooling a few hundred rpm before mine. Very similar, though.

-Mateo
 
Coolness... I'll watch this one closely as this will be another good motor... Any plans for your valves or anything? We've recently figured out that my down pipe setup is totally screwing my motor... so that is getting ripped out and rebuilt custom this winter.. new dynos then in the spring... I'm going to love the power jump probably too...

looks like a nice little project! It'll be great to see how it comes out...

Later!

Steve
 
TurfBurn said:
Coolness... I'll watch this one closely as this will be another good motor... Any plans for your valves or anything? We've recently figured out that my down pipe setup is totally screwing my motor... so that is getting ripped out and rebuilt custom this winter.. new dynos then in the spring... I'm going to love the power jump probably too...

looks like a nice little project! It'll be great to see how it comes out...

Later!

Steve

many thanks for the compliment, most people seem to have no confidence or enthusiasm whatsoever...kinda dissappointing, let's see some mazda enthusiasm going! What's going on with your downpipe? serious size restriction? too tight of a bend? My DP is nice and smooth, but unfortunately i couldn't get a 3" pipe up there, as you've mentioned, the thermostat gets in the way. The outlet on the T3 is 2.5" anyways, so I figure that's not much of a resistriction. mind steps up from 2.5" to 3" right after the DP anyways, so it's about as good as I can get, I figure, without moving things.

I need to get this thing on the dyno desperately, see what it's putting out. 2 or 3 weeks from now I'll make it home and throw it on there. Later
-Mateo
 
I'll try and post pics in my MP3 thread.. but the short version is that it is 2.25" for the downward section and the 90 bend.. then a 2.5" flexjoint that goes into a 3" DP back exhaust... but that's the good part! The hot side flange on the 16G (and similar on other internal wastegate turbos) is basically an amoeba shape with two holes in it... one hole for the wastegate and one for the turbin outlet... when Spool made the DP they basically took the 2.25" pipe and cut a 30 degree angle on the end and flat welded it to the flange.. meaning my exhaust gases hit the flang and attempt to suddenly turn and head down at a 30 degree angle from veritical... then on top of that, half of one of the holes ( I believe the wastegate hole.. but it might be the outlet hole) is blocked off with bad welding that restricts it compeltely... then those two pipes join together like 6" later in a funky restricted configuration... then that finally goes into the 2.25" pipe...

So end result... horrible terrible crap down pipe.... I'm removing my thermostat and relocating it down by the AC compressor (I'll do a how to once I manage it this winter) and cutting part of the compressor flange and then running a ported Evo III cast O2 housing mated to a 3" downpipe and 3" flex joint I'm custom building to work on the car... should be a HUGE change.
 
yes you are correct though... nowhere near enough enthusiasm and support.. a lot of skepticism... but next year when multiple cars will be for SURE running over 400 whp... I think people will really start to believe in what is possible and it'll really pick up... It's great to have another car that will run big numbers and we'll all learn together on what it takes to keep these things intact! :)

Later!

Steve
 
Great info so far...yeller!!!!!!! turf when you post in a thread I think we all learn alot more.....My first turbo kit ran the td05-16g...and the exhaust flange with the wastegate made the downpipe very difficult to work with....I will be looking out for pics on the downpipe


Jeremy
 
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Any plans for your valves? I can get you Ferrea Exhaust valves like I have if you need.

Later!
 
TurfBurn said:
I'll try and post pics in my MP3 thread.. but the short version is that it is 2.25" for the downward section and the 90 bend.. then a 2.5" flexjoint that goes into a 3" DP back exhaust... but that's the good part! The hot side flange on the 16G (and similar on other internal wastegate turbos) is basically an amoeba shape with two holes in it... one hole for the wastegate and one for the turbin outlet... when Spool made the DP they basically took the 2.25" pipe and cut a 30 degree angle on the end and flat welded it to the flange.. meaning my exhaust gases hit the flang and attempt to suddenly turn and head down at a 30 degree angle from veritical... then on top of that, half of one of the holes ( I believe the wastegate hole.. but it might be the outlet hole) is blocked off with bad welding that restricts it compeltely... then those two pipes join together like 6" later in a funky restricted configuration... then that finally goes into the 2.25" pipe...

So end result... horrible terrible crap down pipe.... I'm removing my thermostat and relocating it down by the AC compressor (I'll do a how to once I manage it this winter) and cutting part of the compressor flange and then running a ported Evo III cast O2 housing mated to a 3" downpipe and 3" flex joint I'm custom building to work on the car... should be a HUGE change.

excellente! I made a big effort to get my DP as smooth as possible, b/c the size was restricting enough, so I tried really hard to make the bends smooth, especially just as it exits the turbo, because backpressure in that area is the worst place possible.
-Mateo
 
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