CX-5 Suspension control arm failure

Hi, I was recently travelling in a Mazda CX-5 2013, which has done 73K miles, when the suspension control arm suddenly detached, causing the steering to be lost and the wheel to cave in. The car has been regularly serviced, MOTd, and has had no accidents. Furthermore, it has not been driven on rough terrain.

The incident happened after travelling around 170 miles and there had been no signs of any suspension issues leading up to the incident. Thankfully the problem happened as the car was entering a car park. Had it occurred at speed, the consequences would most likely have caused fatalities.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or has suggestions to make? I'm still reeling from the trauma!

Thanks!
 
Holy moly, I thought I was the only one that had issues getting that little pinch bolt off. I am not sure if your bolt was worse than mine but I heated it a bit with a MAPP torch and gave up as the rubber was starting to burn so I sprayed penetrating fluid on it and kept going at it for about 1-2 hours with a 4 lb. hammer until it came loose and repeated the same process for the opposite side. I did buy a 8 lb. sledgehammer as well but there isn't much room to swing it so it was a waste of time. I would say that the driver side was the worst and honestly, I hope no one has to go through that trouble.

A few tips for anyone attempting to do this:
  1. Air hammer: Consider getting this but you'll need to buy an air compressor + the actual hammer + flat headed bit itself which is about $500-850 total but it would make your life so much easier.
  2. 4 lb. mallet: This is what I used and I had to swing at the bolt repeatedly for about 1-2 hours on both the driver/passenger side to slowly knock it loose.
  3. Heat it up till it's red hot like RedBaron's friend did but you'll definitely ruin the rubber boot and it'll smell bad.
  4. Get a solid metal punch that is round on both sides and wide enough for someone to hold it and go at it with a 8 lb. sledgehammer. Be careful not to hit your friend though :p
If you DO manage to get the bolt loose and inside of the hole, you'll need a punch as well to knock the bolt out of the hole since the opening is very small.

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OK, on to Part Two!

Started getting a clunk again, but from the other side now. Sure enough, I jacked the car up and could feel movement in the driver side ball joint. Sigh.

Ordered the part again (for this side), but this time it didn't come with the spare pinch nut & bolt - go figger. This time I just tried to get that pinch bolt out FIRST and sure enough, it was locked solid again, so put the wheel back on and went over to my pal's house to use the Oxy-A torch again. Got the bolt out without too much trouble with severe heat and drove home to do the rest the next day. Should be easy from now on, thinks I. Hah!

So, on the driver side, there is virtually NO clearance to get to the leading arm (front) pivot bolt. It's easily accessible from the passenger side, but the driver side has the transmission pan blocking all access except from directly below. Would be fine if you have a lift, but with jack stands there just isn't enough height to get a cheater bar and leverage on that sodding bolt. Barely one click on a regular 1/2" ratchet. Cutting a very long (hours story) short, we managed to free it by jacking as high as we could and heating the back end of the leading arm of the control arm, where the threads of the bolt go into the body. Pretty much burnt out the bushing while doing it (nasty smoke) and gave lots of blood to the God of Mechanics. but got it free eventually.

THEN, although the pinch bolt was out (see above), we couldn't get the ball joint post out of the hub carrier. ARRGGH! Hammered and pried but it didn't move a fraction. So, I ended up getting my angle grinder and cutting the ball socket in half to free the ball and post, then twisting it out with a pipe wrench like we did the passenger side before. Ughh. Ida been better off paying someone to do it.

With 20-20 hindsight, it may well have been better to leave the wheel on and use ramps to get enough height to get that leading bolt loose first. THEN get it back on stands and remove the wheel to do the rest.
 
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Hi, I was recently travelling in a Mazda CX-5 2013, which has done 73K miles, when the suspension control arm suddenly detached, causing the steering to be lost and the wheel to cave in. The car has been regularly serviced, MOTd, and has had no accidents. Furthermore, it has not been driven on rough terrain.

The incident happened after travelling around 170 miles and there had been no signs of any suspension issues leading up to the incident. Thankfully the problem happened as the car was entering a car park. Had it occurred at speed, the consequences would most likely have caused fatalities.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or has suggestions to make? I'm still reeling from the trauma!

Thanks!
If i had to take a guess, some nasty mechanic loosened the bolts under your car expecting you to come back a few days later so they can fix it and charge you. I have seen mechanics at Canadian Tire and GM dealerships here in Halton do crap like that! Get every bolt and nut checked under car to ensure they are tight. The dealership are PAID by car companies to check all nut and bolts under car on first oil change to see if loose. Do they do it, i bet not. But i think u have been had! Tell Transportation Safety Board and Mazda. Take photos and document. Send by registered letter. In the uk, mechanics are just as crocked! I had equally bad experience in Uk and Canada and USA!
 
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If i had to take a guess, some nasty mechanic loosened the bolts under your car expecting you to come back a few days later so they can fix it and charge you. I have seen mechanics at Canadian Tire and GM dealerships here in Halton do crap like that! Get every bolt and nut checked under car to ensure they are tight. The dealership are PAID by car companies to check all nut and bolts under car on first oil change to see if loose. Do they do it, i bet not. But i think u have been had! Tell Transportation Safety Board and Mazda. Take photos and document. Send by registered letter. In the uk, mechanics are just as crocked! I had equally bad experience in Uk and Canada and USA!
THIS ABOVE!

A control arm doesnt just fall off @ 73 k miles.

Was there previous work done on the car?ball joints or CV joints replaced, etc?

Either
1.)balljoint/cv joints failure( unusual at 73k)
2.)Someone forgot a clip or nut or didnt tighten something correctly...
3.)worst case scenario would be someone loosened nuts which is criminal.

Where was last place you took the car for auto work? Did they work near that area?

If it was a joints failure, unusual but those do happens. Just bad luck.

However, if it was loose nut/bolts then it seems high probablity that someone didnt tighten nuts correctly torque or worse loosened them.

Good luck with everything.
 
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Hi to all , 2013 cx5 with 119.00 miles

Same failure to me , but also pull the drive shaft..

Fortunately it was during a turn with very low speed..

What to say…
 

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Hi to all , 2013 cx5 with 119.00 miles

Same failure to me , but also pull the drive shaft..

Fortunately it was during a turn with very low speed..

What to say…
While i've had ball-joints last longer, 119,000 miles is about an average lifespan.

Whats suprising is that you didnt hear or feel anything going wrong.
Usually these things just don't come apart without warning and you have a few /several weeks to fix. From the posts on this board, it sounds as if these failure just happen suddenly without any warning on mazda vehicles.
 
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Last night my daughter pulled out of a parking space in our 2014 CX-5 and her wheel just separated from the car. It has 75K miles on it and we bought it as a Mazda certified car in 2019. The mechanic told me that the lower control arm failed, causing the axle to break. When I looked inside I saw that the ball joint was detached. When the tow truck driver came out, he knew exactly what it was and told me that he has seen this many times on Hondas and a number of times on Mazdas. At the shop, a number of the technicians were shocked at what they saw. They kept telling me how lucky we were.

Has there been a recall on this? I didn’t see one for the year 2014, yet I see this topic is repeated. I am shook because this could have been fatal if it was at high speed. My last 3 cars have all been Toyotas that were safety/reliability dreams well past 150K miles. My previous 2 Mazdas were leases, so I haven’t tested their reliability and I am concerned. The car has mainly been driven 8K miles per year within my MA town, with a few 200 mile road trips. It was last serviced 3 months ago for an oil change and tire rotation, not done at the dealer, but by an ASE certified mechanic.

I’m looking for feedback on this more unusual repair. I took it to a very reputable shop, but am also wondering if I should have gone to Mazda. I chose the closer shop because it took 3 different tow trucks to be able to load it on the flatbed without creating further damage and I wanted to minimize the travel distance. I also knew I wanted both sides repaired, out of caution, and was concerned about the price differential at the dealer.

The photos are not the best, but I can go back and take more as the parts will take a week or more.
 

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A similar thing happened to my 2014 CX-5, 75K miles. Pulling out of a parking space and the front drivers side wheel detached-separated at the ball joint, broken axle, and need to replace the control arm. I posted details and photos on a more recent thread, but just wanted to share.
 
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From the photo, looks like the ball shell split apart. Not a ball stud or fastener failure. The other half of the ball joint isn't in the photo to tell if the the boot split, possibly letting water/dirt/salt into the joint and the grinding the ball socket until the shell got too thin to withstand the force. Or if the shell crimp was faulty/weak. Certainly something to have inspected regularly, starting at 60k miles or so, I'd think.
 
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From the photo, looks like the ball shell split apart. Not a ball stud or fastener failure. The other half of the ball joint isn't in the photo to tell if the the boot split, possibly letting water/dirt/salt into the joint and the grinding the ball socket until the shell got too thin to withstand the force. Or if the shell crimp was faulty/weak. Certainly something to have inspected regularly, starting at 60k miles or so, I'd think.
I agree, it would be nice to see the rest of the ball joint to get a better idea. And your comment about 60k miles warranting an inspection is a good one. In fact, maybe a bit sooner.
About 6 weeks ago at 60,190 miles I had a local mechanic install new Mazda OEM front lower control arms and quality Japanese aftermarket outer tie rod ends (Mazda had the tie rod ends on national back order). I supplied the parts (purchased online) and his shop is a 5 minute walk from home. Reasons being that months back I had to seal ALL of the cracked and split boots on both of these components and regreased them with a grease needle through the boot (there was no play in the joints and it steered nice and easy as if the original grease was dry or something- so the joints were still good yet). Also discovered that the big bushings on the rear of the LCA's were torn in few spots and had been for a while apparently. So I decided to burn some money and start with fresh components with new boots and the possibility of never having to mess with them again. Kind of like a "mid-life refresh". Moral of the story: inspect these things regularly.

Not particularly relevant to this thread but in keeping the "mid-life refresh" spirit , a couple weeks ago I replaced rear pads and rotors. Two days ago that same mechanic replaced the stabilizer bar bushings with some OEM bushings I supplied. And even though the original bushings looked good, not wallowed out (real good in fact -good enough to question even changing them --I did this on a hunch) they made a nice difference in firmness and tightened up the front end even more. Comparing the I.D. measurements of a fully closed (by hand)bushing there was about a 2 mm difference between new and old ( new~ 17.75 , old~ 19.50-19.75 mm) so some compression did occur over time. Oh, and I replaced the stabilizer bar end links about 6 months ago. The only front suspension parts not changed are struts which are not due yet. And inspecting the front brakes which were done 2 years ago, rotors and pads are fine, just regreased slider pins. And around this time, the front and rear suspension components got a thin application of a rust inhibitor.

Doing ALL of this may seem unnecessary to some folks, but some things were necessary and some done to avoid doing it later since there were 9 years and approx 60 K miles on these parts already. Except for normal maintenance (filters, oil changes, wipers etc), I'm only looking at changing the coolant and tranny fluid around 75-80k and otherwise good out to 95-100k which is 5 years away at my current mileage of 7K/year.

And finally, I've mentioned in the past about the DIY enjoyment factor that can diminish with advancing age. Lack of good facilities (lift ,air tools) makes it more of a struggle sometimes also.
These factors played a big role in my decisions to get this stuff done. Down the road "I just don't wanna mess with it".
Well there I've gone and bared my soul in this long winded post but maybe there's a few older folks that can identify with what I've said.
And, OH YEA, I'm getting a new set of Pirelli's installed next week (different thread). Happy Boy!!!

Jmaz over and out.
 
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Apologies for the one-year bump, but it looks like I could the expertise of the folks in this thread. My local Mazda dealer suggested a driver-side control arm replacement for $1400 and tierods repair/replacement with alignment for $700 on my 2014 Mazda CX-5 GT, 65k miles, because of torn bushings.

It’s clear that this needs to be fixed (ASAP?) but I’m wondering if this can be repaired instead of replaced, and whether you guys think it’s better to do this at the dealer at the quoted prices, or at a local repair shop with or without buying parts first. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Below some screenshots from their inspection video. The blurry shots are my attempt to show where the close-ups are taken.

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Front left wheel

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Torn lower bushing

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Torn upper bushing

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Close-up with pry tool
 
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Apologies for the one-year bump, but it looks like I could the expertise of the folks in this thread. My local Mazda dealer suggested a driver-side control arm replacement for $1400 and tierods repair/replacement with alignment for $700 on my 2014 Mazda CX-5 GT, 65k miles, because of torn bushings.

It’s clear that this needs to be fixed (ASAP?) but I’m wondering if this can be repaired instead of replaced, and whether you guys think it’s better to do this at the dealer at the quoted prices, or at a local repair shop with or without buying parts first. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Below some screenshots from their inspection video. The blurry shots are my attempt to show where the close-ups are taken.

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Front left wheel

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Torn lower bushing

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Torn upper bushing

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Close-up with pry tool
Yeah those Mazda rubber boots seems not as durable as my 1998 Honda CR-V. Dealer price of course will be very high as the labor charge has been up to $200+ per hour!

If the play isn’t too bad, you should be able to take time to find some good and reasonable indie to replace those ball joints and tie-rod ends. Unfortunately Mazda doesn’t sell those rubber boots like my Honda CR-V does, where I replaced all of them including steering rack boots at 180K miles.
 
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Unfortunately Mazda doesn’t sell those rubber boots like my Honda CR-V does, where I replaced all of them including steering rack boots at 180K miles
Exactly, the dealer told me replacement was the only option, but I was hoping they were omitting some acceptable third party solution.

I wonder if it makes sense to order the parts myself, not sure about the upcharge if an independent shop orders it. If anyone here knows that'd be great.

As for driving on it, I was going to do that, but I have to say reading this thread is giving me pause!
 
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As @yrwei52 said. If it's not rattling/clunking then there's some life in it yet. Find an independent and ask them the cost and if they'll accept your parts (some will, many won't). I got my (non-OEM) replacements from RockAuto for ~$110 ea. I will say that if one side is going, the other side will follow soon, so you may as well bite the bullet and get both sides done together. I certainly wouldn't pay $1400 for one side. That's daylight robbery. It's not that big a job if you have a lift and access to the required tools.
 
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As @yrwei52 said. If it's not rattling/clunking then there's some life in it yet. Find an independent and ask them the cost and if they'll accept your parts (some will, many won't). I got my (non-OEM) replacements from RockAuto for ~$110 ea. I will say that if one side is going, the other side will follow soon, so you may as well bite the bullet and get both sides done together. I certainly wouldn't pay $1400 for one side. That's daylight robbery. It's not that big a job if you have a lift and access to the required tools.
Thanks for all that, I'll check and see what the local repair shop says. Yeah $1400 seemed steep!

I'll do some searching later today, but if you or anyone else here happen to have a link ready to the part(s) I'd appreciate it. If not I'll post what I find and maybe someone can give their thoughts. Thanks again!
 
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Exactly, the dealer told me replacement was the only option, but I was hoping they were omitting some acceptable third party solution.

I wonder if it makes sense to order the parts myself, not sure about the upcharge if an independent shop orders it. If anyone here knows that'd be great.

As for driving on it, I was going to do that, but I have to say reading this thread is giving me pause!
Looks like you also need tie-rod ends in addition to the ball joints on LCA.

If you have Brakes Plus near by, try them first.
 
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.....
I wonder if it makes sense to order the parts myself, not sure about the upcharge if an independent shop orders it. ....
Although I'm a DIYer and don't use shops, I have a fairly good idea how they operate. They're going to have a target amount of profit to make for any given job, which is certainly understandable and reasonable IMO. So even for those shops that would agree to install owner-purchased parts, I suspect they would make up the lost markup on the parts, by padding the labor. And that aside, they almost certainly would not warranty any subsequent issues with those parts. I recommend going to 2-3 indy shops, getting quotes for all of the work, and then comparing the quotes, along with your gut feelings about your conversations with them.

You must live in some place like Arizona, to have a 2014 in that condition. Just once in my life, I would absolutely love to work on something in the condition from those pictures. People who work on vehicles where you live have NO idea how lucky they are :rolleyes:
 
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