2017~2025: CX-5 Custom Eibachs by Odula

[FukuokaKid]

Aloha CX-5 Peeps!

I just recently picked up a '24 Turbo Premium and I've been following a lot of your projects and issues. There seems to an only a few spring choices here in the US. However, that is not the case in Japan.

I wanted something to get rid of the fender gaps but still maintain the relatively plush ride. I was originally set on getting either AutoEXE's Lowdown springs or their CoilOvers. However, their springs only have 30mm of drop. On top of that, spring rates are raised ~10%. AutoEXE's coilovers require that you purchase parts from the Gen2. Others manufacturers that had more drop, like Espelir, RSR and Tanabe, raised the spring rates even more. Then I came across this small tuner shop in Osaka called, Odula.

From what I understand, Odula wanted a drop similar to the Eibachs but maintain the performance and ride quality. So, they had Eibach custom wind springs to their specs.

For the TLDR version, here are the specs...

SPOLUX LOWDOWN SUS (KF015)
Front Drop: ~40mm
Front Spring Rate: 3.26 kg/mm
Front Free Length: 352mm
Rear Drop: ~40mm
Rear Spring Rate: 3.49 kg/mm
Rear Free Length: 336mm

AutoEXE lists the KF AWD Turbo stock spring rates as 2.94F/4.11R.

Now, this actually goes against everything I know regarding performance... Usually to reduce understeer you stiffen the rears and soften the front. This is doing the exact opposite. I don't know anything about AWD suspension tuning so I hope this does not turn out to be a disaster. The only thing I can think of is the softer rear springs will make it easier for the swaybar to do its job.

The reviews that I found were all positive and customers said performance and ride were improved. I had to try them and here they are.

I hope to install them soon and will update with my opinion soon after. I'll probably follow CorkSport's instructions regarding trimming the bumpstops as neither bumpstops nor instructions were included.

Did I mention that they are a really bright Orange?

Anyway thanks for reading and I hope someone else can find this info useful.

Mahalo!

 

[N7turbo]

AutoEXE lists the KF AWD Turbo stock spring rates as 2.94F/4.11R.

According to Corksport they are about 3.0K / 5.2K. That is because they state a 17% increase took the fronts to 3.4K and a 34% increase brought the rears to 7.0K.

Wonder who's more accurate?

 

[FukuokaKid]

So it seems like I was NOT supposed to trim the bumpstops. The rear came down way more than 40mm. I’m going to try put back the piece I cut tomorrow and see how that changes things.

The spring rate and length were probably calculated with the bumpstop. My previous 5 (think Premacy not CX-5) was the same way. H&R said not to trim the bumpstop as it was part of their calculations.

Fronts seems ok. Measured 17” from center of wheel to the fender. Rears measured 16.25” from center to fender. Probably should have measured before I started.

 

[N7turbo]

So it seems like I was NOT supposed to trim the bumpstops. The rear came down way more than 40mm. I’m going to try put back the piece I cut tomorrow and see how that changes things.

The spring rate and length were probably calculated with the bumpstop. My previous 5 (think Premacy not CX-5) was the same way. H&R said not to trim the bumpstop as it was part of their calculations.

Fronts seems ok. Measured 17” from center of wheel to the fender. Rears measured 16.25” from center to fender. Probably should have measured before I started.

The bump stop won't affect ride height unless you're talking about riding directly on it--which you don't want to do. The bump stop gets trimmed so you don't hit it, which is unpleasant.

That does look like more than 40mm though.

 

[FukuokaKid]

Actually many cars may be riding on the bump stops. NASCAR apparently does...

“Now we’re using these to control the wheel loads and aero platforms by actually setting the race car on the bump stops and riding on those rather than bouncing off of them. You can consider it a spring—it’s a very progressive spring—but it basically does the same thing.” Says Jason Enders

Bump Stops: Taking it to an Unhealthy Level

ORIGINAL APPLICATION: NASCARADAPTED TO: Circle track, road racing WHY IT TRANSLATES: Bump stops are typically used in OEM applications to protect the suspension from damagecaused by over-traveling. But in the past few years, racers have given these bushinglikecomponents a new role in competition su

www.resuspension.com

 

[FukuokaKid]

Put the cut pieces of the bumpstops back in the rear. Pretty much confirms that it they were not supposed to be cut. I guess I’ll be ordering replacements so that’s proper. Then get it aligned.

 

[N7turbo]

It depends on the drop. Corksport specifically instructs you to cut them for their 2" (51mm) lowering springs. If you don't, you will hate the ride.

If they are affecting your ride height, you're sitting on them, and you're going to hate the ride. You aren't even using your springs at that point. This isn't NASCAR.

OP, it looks to me like the spring rates are too low in the rear?

 

[sm1ke]

@FukuokaKid, how is the ride quality and handling now? Does it still ride close to stock over bumps? And how does it corner after installing the softer rear springs?

 

[FukuokaKid]

@FukuokaKid, how is the ride quality and handling now? Does it still ride close to stock over bumps? And how does it corner after installing the softer rear springs?

It is actually slightly stiffer than stock because it does ride on the bumpstops in the rear.

Cornering feels flatter but that is also because it is on the bumpstops.

Odula is probably using the bumpstops as an additional spring as they are very progressive in nature. The downside is they are considered consumable.

 

[N7turbo]

You might find this interesting or useful: CorkSport springs with Bilstein shocks - *installation note*

 

[sm1ke]

Going to send you a DM for an unrelated question @FukuokaKid

 

[FukuokaKid]

You might find this interesting or useful: CorkSport springs with Bilstein shocks - *installation note*

Thanks! I did read through that one before. However, Corksport says they increased the spring rate in the rear 32% to 7kg. That is double the rate of the Odula. Stands to reason the Corksport springs will feel stiffer. Especially with ~"1 less stroke on the Bilstein and the softer portion of the bumpstop removed.

The Odula on the bumpstops are stiffer than stock but not by much. It isn't uncomfortable by any means. But someone else may have a different opinion.

One negative I can say about Odula's method is that the ride height and ride will change over time as the bumpstop wears. But, while Corksport's will probably go pretty much unchanged (as springs typically dont change that much), the transition into the bumpstop may not be as smooth because the softest portion is removed per the instructions. And for the thread in reference, so much of the bumpstop is removed that when they do engage it, I would assume that it will be pretty abrupt.

I am not saying one way is better then the other. It is just 2 different methods of addressing a similar issue. It just comes down to personal preference.

 

[FukuokaKid]

Install new OEM bumpstops for the rears. Ended up grabbing from the local stealership. This is one of those time where I can't say, "Lucky we live Hawaii". Man was it expensive! Guess I could have ordered from mainland but still would have to pay shipping.

Anyway.... No change in ride quality vs with the cut pieces. Maybe a few mm in height in the rear. Here is a pic I took down the street from where I live.

 

[FukuokaKid]

Here is the alignment...

Used the Megan Toe Arms to set toe and the factory toe eccentrics to pull out camber. Sorry didn't get the before printout. They were able to pull camber back from about -2.4°. So for those that have a mild drop, the toe arms may be an alternative to camber arms. No need to drop subframe.

For those of you in Honolulu, Hawaii, Scotty's is the best.

 

[N7turbo]

Nice. I used the LYKT control arms and got my rear camber down to -0.75° with a 2" drop. But interestingly, even bone stock I had visible negative rear camber. Must be how Mazda set it up. It is beneficial when turning and under weight transfer, likely zeros out.

 

[N7turbo]

I did not install toe arms or front camber bolts and here are my results:

Front

Camber​

Left​		Right​
-1.3°​	-0.3°​	-1.0°​

Caster​

Left​		Right​
6.1°​	-0.2°​	6.3°​

Toe​

Left​		Right​
0.07°​	​	0.09°​

Rear

Camber​

Left​		Right​
-0.8°​	-0.1°​	-0.7°​

Toe​

Left​		Right​
0.09°​	0.00°​	0.10°​

Total Toe​	Thrust Angle​
0.19°​	0.00°​