CX-5 Battery Replacement recommendation?

[MEB]

I need a new battery for my 2016.5 GT AWD CX5. I am replacing the original battery, so this is my first new battery experience. Should I go with the "Mazda" battery @ my dealer 2yr replacement warranty / 84MO (prorated) warranty $250, includes labor.

If I buy on my own, what brands & specs. should I consider beyond the right type / size for my CX5? Will I need to "re-set" or lose any existing saved functions with a new install?

I need to replace within the next 5 business days. I'm the orig. owner of the car. It has 48K miles & I've not had any issues with the original battery. I live in the Seattle WA area and my car is not garaged. I plan to keep this car for 2 yrs.

Thanks for your recs!

 

[AL Cx5]

These "discount auto parts" stores are all a sham with their overinflated pricing. NOTHING discounted at all and most items can be found on rockauto for much much lower or amazon if in a pinch. I LMAO at their prices, coupons or not, they're way above reality IN FANTASY LAND. For example, I needed to purchase a simple coolant temp sensor for a 2006 honda civic. Local autozone, advance or O'Reilly's wanted $55 to $60 for that. Rockauto they're $15 to $20 for a good brand. Same brand on amazon, $25. In no way does it justify a store to charge nearly triple for something. If Costco can sell this battery for $125, then you know how much markup there is at these "discount stores and how much money is burned if a person doesn't know any better.

These things are easy to install folks. Learn it once, get the knowledge and satisfaction and be smarter for life.

Yes, I buy from at parts stores only when I'm in a pinch. Like oil, ATF or coolant.

As a rule, I don't buy any sensors from Rock or parts stores. I tested several in the past and they have different resistance and magnetic strength than oem. Other sensors were longer and hit the reluctor wheel, killing them.

I have a closet full of bloody t shirts from cheap, parts stores sensors.

Just because they don't throw a code doesn't mean they are in calibration. Been there too...

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Yes, I buy from at parts stores only when I'm in a pinch. Like oil, ATF or coolant.

As a rule, I don't buy any sensors from Rock or parts stores. I tested several in the past and they have different resistance and magnetic strength than oem. Other sensors were longer and hit the reluctor wheel, killing them.

I have a closet full of bloody t shirts from cheap, parts stores sensors.

Just because they don't throw a code doesn't mean they are in calibration. Been there too...

A closet full of bloody shirts, eh?

Perhaps your installation methods need a bit of adjustment?

I would suggest wearing red shirts whenever you work on your cars.