Current Engine bay pics everyone

don't mean to put you on the hot seat, but did you notice any difference over the SMIC? You think this would give a better result than an FMIC? And lastly, how is it mounted?-- I've always wondered where/how one would mount it.
 
its not done yet lol i dunno how it works. elec tape, string and zip ties just dont work well in the booosted environment.

i think throttle response wise, yes its better , but with teh small core i got u get limited on CFM so i cant run big boost (15 psi plus). but i wont need to. its mounted right where u see it. i made some brackets, the end tanks have bosses in them u drill out and tap.

heres a pic of the pump, also crappy.
 

Attachments

  • 513dfc113e62.webp
    513dfc113e62.webp
    14.8 KB · Views: 272
looking at that pic from your cell phone again, I realized exactly how close the end of the heat exchanger is to your throttle body-- that's very nicely done. Any concerns about the proximity to the block heating up the exchanger? I'd love it if you posted some pics close up of how you mounted it :)

Also, what did you do about a resevoir?
 
Last edited:
im not worried about it getting superheated really, im taking out the smic so im gonna have a bunch of airflow. the heat exchanger is in the front bumper grill (mounted like a fmic). ill take pics when i get the pipes welded cause i have to redo the brackets. for the water tank i have a 2.0 gallon tank in the trunk. i was going to put it up front but i just dont have the room for anyhting more than a gallon. ( i could if i custom made a tank, but ive spent enough for now).

i actually have a resevoir thats the same shape as the stock smic but it only holds 2 quarts so im afraid it will be too little water. so im going to put a tank in the trunk so that i dont have to custom make anything else cause its a pain in that tight engine bay.
 
Last edited:
What about using slightly diluted ethylene glycol instead of water?-- that's what I'd do. Pure ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 197.3 degrees celcius as opposed to water's 100 degrees. That might do you better than simply water. What do you think?
 
gone_fishin said:
What about using slightly diluted ethylene glycol instead of water?-- that's what I'd do. Pure ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 197.3 degrees celcius as opposed to water's 100 degrees. That might do you better than simply water. What do you think?

yea i havent decided on what im using exactly. i learned a neat trick where u can put that alcohol and distilled (i think) water in frezer (certain mix ratio) and it will get realllllly cold but wont freeze too. i just called the cooling liquid coolant. if i use coolant im not gonna put ice in it so ill probably use a water, alk mix so it doesnt freeze
 
gone_fishin said:
What about using slightly diluted ethylene glycol instead of water?-- that's what I'd do. Pure ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 197.3 degrees celcius as opposed to water's 100 degrees. That might do you better than simply water. What do you think?

Boiling point is higher, yes but straight water has more heat-carrying capacity... (It is more efficient.)
 
Hey bow,

You should put your wife up for ride of the month, heyoo

I'm kidding...no but seriously she's hot mang :D

I really like what you did with your IC and big ups to you for being unique. I think it takes a lot more work and research to piece together an A/W IC setup than it is to just buy an FMIC kit. I think pretty soon I might follow in your footsteps.
 
what i received via UPS (guess they arent required to read b/c it clearly said DO NOT BEND) yea, thats a bend, gonna take a rubber mallet to it this weekend and flatten that bad boy out!

*orange side repeaters tomorrow and DG fiberglass grill within the next week*
 

Attachments

  • IMGP0754.webp
    IMGP0754.webp
    68.2 KB · Views: 214
  • IMGP0755.webp
    IMGP0755.webp
    68.6 KB · Views: 248
  • IMGP0758.webp
    IMGP0758.webp
    119.1 KB · Views: 257
blackdragon11 said:


I have one of those pictures from when my first motor bit the dust
 

Attachments

  • MMB trackside 087 (Medium).webp
    MMB trackside 087 (Medium).webp
    92.3 KB · Views: 228
  • MMB trackside 097.webp
    MMB trackside 097.webp
    126.6 KB · Views: 250
  • no engine 2 (Medium).webp
    no engine 2 (Medium).webp
    64 KB · Views: 238
  • powered by Bill (Medium).webp
    powered by Bill (Medium).webp
    54.2 KB · Views: 252
dang still looking good.do you cover anything when you spray it down or do you just go at it?im weary of spraying so i just use a rag to clean as best i can.
 
i wrapped the delicate components in cling wrap and sprayed down everyting else. i was able to use shop air to blow off what ever parts i didnt want water sitting on when it was soaking. came out decent.
 
COVER SPARK PLUGS.. trust me you don't want to deal with what I did.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clauretano/LaborDay/photo#4971100637222535186"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/clauretano/RPzlsQheABI/AAAAAAAAAJM/p8DR5psIKkw/IMG_2491.jpg?imgmax=288"></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:66%; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clauretano/LaborDay">Labor Day</a></td></tr></table>

feel free to lol at my flaking header coating and the fact that my header NEVER bronzed properly.
 
a nice little addition... im painting the valve cover hopefully this weekend... which means ill clean it up...

im painting red and probably will paint CAI to match... as right now its got some black ceramic engine paint on it...

DSC_4899.jpg
 
Back