Crazee build

Gen1GT said:
Yeah, there's no way you're making 169lb-ft of torque. At 4500RPM, 169lb-ft is 144hp. Even if you made peak torque at 4000RPM, that's still 128hp. Conversely, 90hp at 6000RPM(assuming that's where you make peak horsepower), is only 79lb-ft.

How are you figuring this?
Some people I spoke with see no problem with 90hp and 169tq.
Whats wrong with that?
 
hp and torque are related. hp is a product of torque at a given rpm. if torque stays perfectly flat, hp will rise exponentially and intersect @ ~5250rpm(it's a crude explanation).

those #'s do look like they belong to a little non-turbo diesel. i don't know if/how the auto tranny affect the #'s though. that may be the X factor.
 
ctt 1982 said:
hp and torque are related. hp is a product of torque at a given rpm. if torque stays perfectly flat, hp will rise exponentially and intersect @ ~5250rpm(it's a crude explanation).

those #'s do look like they belong to a little non-turbo diesel. i don't know if/how the auto tranny affect the #'s though. that may be the X factor.
gearbox's multiply torque... i don't know how the auto could be screwing it up....

to know the full story crazee, we need to know WHERE your peak torque and peak horsepower were on the dyno...give us the RPM numbers.... :)


Torque = (5252 * HP) / RPM
 
LordWorm said:
gearbox's multiply torque... i don't know how the auto could be screwing it up....

to know the full story crazee, we need to know WHERE your peak torque and peak horsepower were on the dyno...give us the RPM numbers.... :)


Torque = (5252 * HP) / RPM

rpm = (5252 * HP) / torque

= 2797RPM (peak torque)
 
no way you are making more torque with fewer mods then most and no tuning. sounds like the dyno is inaccurate for some reason on the torque, hp seems right. A boosted FSDE like the MSP doesnt make that much torque lol I would not go back on that dyno if i were you, why pay for numbers that arent even right lol id go get my money back
 
I hear ya.
Could be the dyno, but everyone else who ran there that day got numbers within their expectations.
I have a feeling it's more likely a miscalculation from the laser eye reading the RPM. I didn't know coil-on plugs don't play nice with some dynos.

Or it has something to do with the Auto's torque converter.

Still makes me wonder tho...where did all the "gains" go from CAI, Header, Exh? I know that had to have some effect, cuz I can feel it.
 
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Crazee D said:
I hear ya.
Could be the dyno, but everyone else who ran there that day got numbers within their expectations.
I have a feeling it's more likely a miscalculation from the laser eye reading the RPM. I didn't know coil-on plugs don't play nice with some dynos.

Or it has something to do with the Auto's torque converter.

Still makes me wonder tho...where did all the "gains" go from CAI, Header, Exh? I know that had to have some effect, cuz I can feel it.
Wiki some info on torque converters etc...you'll learn a bit about how they work and it might provide some answers (i've read a bit but nothing is coming to mind.......probably because its nearly midnight and i'm a bit out of it).

I know on dragster setups with crazy torque converters and big stalls, the amount of torque generated is axle shattering....

Have a read, see how you go :)
 
Still trying to compile a complete to-do list
  1. Oil leak or burning?
  2. Install cams, UDP and belts
  3. Troubleshoot 02 wiring issue, tune MPI, need a WBO2
  4. Exhaust leak, got new donut
  5. Scoring 626 mani runners (already PnP) & adapt OEM fuel rail
  6. IM and TB spacers
  7. Buy header wrap & heat shielding for hood
  8. Check for water leak in passenger side foot well
  9. Cylinder head for PnP is on its way TODAY!! (rockon)
  10. Rust inhibitor & touch up paint
  11. Repair and recondition rims
  12. Paint/recondition, cut 626 valve cover, coil packs
  13. Tranny flush n fill
  14. Brake line stand offs
  15. Check bumper support (rattling)
  16. Oil catch and coolant overflow (still)
Parts:
Oils
paint, putty
plumbing, fittings

Tests:
Compression and leakdown
Re-dyno

Funds:
??? Where r u ???
 
Well, I am going away to Puerto Rico to visit our family and have a little vacation time too. (yes)

I asked the only two mechanics I know who will work on modified spo-coms for availability. This way I am away during the down time.

Alex at Wentworth Motorsports (http://forums.baystatedubs.com/viewforum.php?f=13)
primarily does VW and Euro but has helped me out of a few jams. He was booking a month out when I asked and he will be taking a vacation during the same time. :(

My other option is closer to Josh and is the shop that got me access to the dyno, Chris at Mustang Performance. These guys have a car they race and are often traveling. They have a lot full of projects and a backlog of customers.

I am hoping to drop off the cylinder head and cams today.
They are gonna quote me to do some intake port matching and polish exh.
side.

Alex advised me VERY strongly against head work without use of a flowbench. He had tried this and wasted time and effort learning this lesson the hard way.

I am confident that Chris will be able to do the head work and swap, but I don't know how many of the 4 or 5 projects he will have time to complete.
 
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Well, it looks like I will be having the AEM F/IC installed during my vacation. I was hoping to get the cylinder head swapped in with the twiggy stix and adj cam gears.

Tuning soon to come!
 
Well, here's a long overdue update.

AEM F/IC is installed.
The short version is this:
Car can get a little cranky on the highway.
There seems to be a "zone" around 3-3500 rpm at 70 ish MPH where it is misfiring. I think this is just a tuning matter.
It's fine almost all the time around town.
I'll write up more about this in the piggyback thread.

Otherwise,
the 626 IM, cylinder head and cams are sitting at the shop. adj cam gears are on their way.

Chris, the mechanic who did the AEM wiring and MPI removal, had some guidance for me. He feels that I will have very little gains from the cams and head. He thinks low boost would be a better course of action.
So no intercooler just limited boost on a budget.

I really still want to use the rest of my assembled parts rather than sell them all off.

So, I am scouting the OBX header since he has a used turbonetics T3 .60 from another customer who may sell it to me. Or an exhaust flange to build off of. I figure the OBX has a lifetime warranty, he said they will crack.



Bumper rattle has become very annoying. Tho having the sub in the spare spot can help mask the noise if I choose to crank the stereo.
 
Well, here's a long overdue update.
Chris, the mechanic who did the AEM wiring and MPI removal, had some guidance for me. He feels that I will have very little gains from the cams and head. He thinks low boost would be a better course of action.
So no intercooler just limited boost on a budget.

I'll disagree with your mechanic here. Cams can/will/do make a large difference to the car, especially if you start pushing past the stock redline.
At about 6000rpm, the car is literally starving itself for air on the stock cams, and the exhaust side is not evacuating anywhere near the amount of gas it needs to. The twiggy cams will happilly support more RPM than you are ever likely to achieve on the motor.

If you are after power on a budget, i'd suggest a little (very little) bit of squirt....or water/meth injection to allow you to take advantage of more timing.
 
Also note he is Autotragic.

So what's the verdict?

Just keep on keepin on....

When I can afford it I would like to go turbo.
I still want the UDP, head (after some work), cams, IM, adj gears to go in, its just a matter of time and money.

I did successfully connect to the AEM, yay!

Downloaded the maps and a shitload of logs. Poked around the controls.
Battery on laptop died again while I was logging to the PC.

Next step, learn to read log files and probably post them over on the AEM tech forum too.
 
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