CranKshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit malfunction (P0335) CEL Code - including fix

[vesko_m]

Background:
I bought my Mazda 5 4 years and 30 000 miles ago. I've replaced the belt for the water pump & alternator as well as the tensioner pulley. The belt was not OEM and that's why it lasted only 30 000 miles and snapped.
Changed the belt and the pulley again and continued enjoying my Mazda 5.

Now to the point:
Travelled 500 miles abroad, everything was fine for 10 days, but all of a sudden one morning the car didn't want to start. Cranked the hell out of it, still no go. At some point noticed the CEL blinking. Read the codes via the OBD reader - got P0335 Crankshaft position sensor circuit malfunction.
Found a local garage, they diagnosed that there was no spark on the spark plugs.
They've just sprayed WD-40 on the crankshaft position sensor, disconnected the battery for 2 minutes - the car started.
Came back home and drove the car for a week without issues, no CEL, nothing out of the ordinary.
Found some free time, removed the crankshaft position sensor and saw this:

Obviously when the belt snapped it rubbed on the CKP.
For whatever reason it was working fine.
I have no idea how they got it working in the garage with just spraying the sensor - I guess it was the Mazda GOD that got involved
Bought a new one:

I found a replacement from Herth+Buss Elparts - part number 70610022
The mazda OEM part numbers I've found are ZZC018230 LF0118221 and 1F2067082
The ford part numbers are 1119150 and 1S7FGC215AD,
The last one can be seen on the new sensor:

And a shot just for reference:

The top bolt is easy to access. I've go the bottom one with a ratchet spanner with flexible head.

Additional info:
I came across information that Mazda provides a tool that let's you find the TDC, and then poistion the CKP in the right place.
But then I found some other information, like this one: http://www.ozmazda.com/board/index.php/topic/2791-advancing-the-timing-on-your-mazda3/page-2
That people are actually "tuning" their engines with moving the CKP down.
I would say that my old sensor was almost to the lowest position possible, but while I was at it - positioned the new one to the lowest position possible.

I hope that this will be helpful for somebody else.

 

[Silentnoise713]

You should read this first to understand exaclty what happend before you mess with timing - just replace MX-5 with Mazda 5. You are not "gaining" anything, rather shifting your power curve. You get better low end at the cost of lossing it at the high end. There is no free HP and you have to run 95 or higher octane fuel or risk detonation. Is it really worth it?
http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html


So, what's the name of the crappy belt that should be avoided?

 

[vesko_m]

I've used Gates 5PK-692SF for the AC
and Gates 6PK-1305 for the water pump & alternator

I've actually bought exactly the same belts - I am happy with the price/performance I've got and will replace them a little bit earlier than 30 000 miles.

About the timing - I admit I did not research fully on this,
but the lowest octane fuel I can get around here is 95
And my Mazda 5 runs on Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG) and LPG is between 102 and 108 octane
Though I did not notice any "gain" I prefer to have it like this - I tend to drive the mazda below 3000 rpm more frequently than getting above 5000 rpms