Conversion from cartridge filter to screw on filter - Should I do it?

[bulwnkl]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

 

[Benfolio]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

You want messy? Try changing the oil filter on an old FWD 2.5L "Iron Duke" 4cyl GM motor. There's a drain plug too, in the pan, but the filter is inside the pan hiding on top of a 6" round heavy chunk of threaded metal with a 24MM nut on it. Even if you CAN remove it (they tend to rust to the pan), and without making a mess, you're gonna get a bath when you try and pull the filter out of it's housing up inside the oil pan. Worst. Design . EVER.

 

[TheMAN]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

uhh, the mazda3, mazda6, tribute, escape, focus, ranger, b-series, etc all use the same spin-on filter... I seriously doubt there's not a "better" filter out there than the OEM one

 

[bulwnkl]

uhh, Exactly; they're all the same, so listing all the models out does not increase the number of OEM-replacement options, it just adds confusion to the question. There's already a Purolator PureOne available for the 5's cartridge for me and anyone else who thinks that's better than Mazda, no Amsoil EaO cartridge, and no EaO spin-on in the OEM size for the Tribute. Soo... like I said, there's nothing better than the cartridge system we already have, so I have zero reason to change.

 

[TheMAN]

the OEM filter is damn good enough, why waste money to get "better"?
the only reason to change this s*** is because it's less messy to do oil changes plus its cheaper in the long run because there's less bulls*** parts involved... plus there's less likelyhood of s*** ******* up because you can't crack metal as easily as plastic

"better filter" is not the reason people are converting

 

[bulwnkl]

I think I covered the 'reasons' you mention previously.

 

[narenji]

Get gasket part# LF01-14-342 for $5.85
Get filter body part# L311-14-311 for $35.80

Oh, and a spin on filter # LF10-14-302.

am i to assume that this is all ill need to convert to a spin on filter mount? what else is needed? thanks,
-naren.

 

[TheMAN]

RTV *grey* silicone sealant from the parts store in order to move the oil pressure switch over to the new part

 

[TheMAN]

FYI.... mazda is going to officially admit that the plastic cap in the cartridge oil filter housing is a piece of s*** in the next month or so... they're currently building up stock of a new revised plastic cap which will have thicker walls in the plastic to reduce the tendency of cracking.... yes, the s*** still cracks when you use the *proper* tool to R&R it! in fact, it happened yesterday at work!

so like I said... s*** like this is more than enough reason to convert to the more reliable spin-on filter

 

[Rocket]

You guys are beating this up more than a trailer park *****. Let it go...

 

[narenji]

Get gasket part# LF01-14-342 for $5.85
Get filter body part# L311-14-311 for $35.80

Oh, and a spin on filter # LF10-14-302.

You don't have to worry about the cooler because it mounts to the top of the filter body (adapter), but the Tribute does use a different cooler than the MSP6, CX-7, and 5.

If you change your own oil, and don't want to worry about failed or torn o-rings, and don't care about your warranty, it's a easy mod.

the mazda dealer tells me that L311-14-311 is not a mazda part... he wanted to sell me the mazda3 filter housing, but that one doesnt have an oil cooler attached on top...

is this a ford part?

also the man says no coolant draining is necessary to do the conversion, but im guessing you have to remove the two coolant hoses going into the oil cooler right, isnt there any coolant in there? or does it only circulate if the motor is running?

 

[slvrsleeper]

A question for Benfolio and Theman both. I have got part # L301-14-311 but there is no provision to attach the oil cooler in my 5 to the top of it. Do I need a different part# for the filter body or is it OK to leave the oil cooler hanging in space?(uhm) BTW what is the part # for the Tribute, oil cooler equipped, spin-on filter mount?

 

[Benfolio]

Part number is L311-14-310 or 311. Both show up in Mazda's inventory for about $35.00, and that fits all Tributes with the 2.3L up to '08 even nd has the provision for the oil cooler on top.
The L301 you got is for a 2.0L Mazda 3, it will not work as that car has no cooler.

 

[slvrsleeper]

Dyslexia can be fnu, I mean nfu, hold on, ufn, ENJOYABLE! Onlinemazdaparts shows the Tribute specific part for 28.64 plus shipping. So we will try again, this time with the right part! Thanks Benfolio for the help.

 

[rodslinger]

You want messy? Try changing the oil filter on an old FWD 2.5L "Iron Duke" 4cyl GM motor. ....

Man I was just about to mention those things. They would make a HUGE mess. Those things were great for breaking in new oil techs. Whenever one would come in and we had a new tech we would hand him the impact wrench with the correct socket and let him go to town. It would spin that plug off and sling oil 20 feet. Best laugh you'd ever get.

 

[slvrsleeper]

I genuinely appreciate the fact that the Mazda doesn't have anything in the WAY of the stream of oil as it heads for the drain pan. My last car was an accursed VW Jetta w/ the 1.8T motor. That marvel of German engineering drained the oil right onto the wiring harness for the secondary air pump. Is it any wonder they threw emissions codes like chaff over Ploesti?