Considering new radiator.

K. I thought that might be a cheapo way to get a bigger radiator. (Not a whole lot). I believe it does have the tranny cooler on the bottom, which of course, is useless on a stickshift. :p Of course, it's still that plastic junk. Heh. Funny (off-topic) is that the aftermarket all-metal 3-row radiators for my Volvo are cheaper than an OEM replacement 2-row plastic top. ($250 vs $320 or so)
 
I am new to all of this, but can you explain to me just what would be the benefit of running a higher pressure cap in my mazdaspeed on the AWR radiator?
 
With the coolant under higher pressure, it takes more heat to make it boil. Problem is you gotta wait a few minutes when you're shutting off sometimes, if the coolant has got too hot. Otherwise when you shut the engine off and release pressure it'll fill up the overflow tank and spill out.
 
My radiator should be here today, and I plan on installing it. Has anyone else installed one of the AWR radiators yet? Anything beside the obvious that I should be aware of? BTW...if you are planning on changing your coolant, always follow these procedures cited from the Mazda Protege Shope Manual:

coolant_procedure.jpg
 
Thanks for posting the directions, maybe I might tackle putting my radiator in myself now. Any ideas on how to flush all the coolant out of the system? Do you just start running water through the stock radiator until all traces of coolant are gone, assuming the water is cycling through the block and clearing it out or what? Forgive my ignorance if the answer is obvious, but I have never done anything like this before.
 
Isn't there also a page about releasing air bubbles in the radiator? That could be important too, if that happens.
 
yes, you would have to "burp"(theres other definitions for it) the system is one term for it, otherwise you might have problems of not getting any fluid to the radiator..etc..
 
Any instruction for doing this and fully flushing the coolant from the system beyond what Linux posted above?
 
Hmmmm...I'll look, but the instructions above are what has worked for me. I just keep a close eye on my temps, and my coolant level in the radiator.
 
to fully flush the system, do it while the car is hot so the thermostat is open and the coolant in the bloock drains out. You can fill it with water again and let it warm up again to make sure all coolant is out and drain it again. When filling it back up do it slowly like in the manual like Linux provided and make sure to "burp" the system, keep the cap off.

edit: if you don't do it with thermostat open then you will only drain coolant in radiator, which is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the fluid. Rest is in block.
 
Sweet.. Im gonna get one eventually, and some slimline fans.

If you can, check if it mounts closer to the engine with the thicker radiator, or does the extra thickness go toward the front of the car. My manifold is pretty close to my fans, which leads me to believe that with the AWR i would definitly need new fans along with the radiator.

Let see some pics too!
 
Ok, I am having major problems....

1. I broke off the little nipple going to the overflow when screwing it into the neck.

2. My Radiator cap does not fit!

I talked to Tony at AWR, and he will be sending me a new nipple, but how will I make the state meet? I will find a way.
 
Here is a picture of the broken overflow nipple:

broken_overflow_nipple.jpg


I talked to Elemental59437, and he may know someone who may be able to weld aluminum for me. My other option I guess is to find something that can get the broken-off part out of the thread of the cap neck. The red stuff you see is loctite. (nervous)
 
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