Common problems with the Mazda3

[Mnementh]

the only advise that i can give you is.....purge valve in the gas tank. thats waht happened to me and sound like what you are describing

I was thinkin' something along those lines, that it was a fuel issue.

Thanks for the update.

 

[Golum]

Do you happen to have the bulletin numbers?

There are 2 bulletins to fix your front and back brakes for squeaking when cold. Dealer will fix it for you if you mention it.

 

[mobomelter]

does anyone else here have an 2005 mz3?

 

[Kodiac 3]

3 months/ 4300 miles no problems!!!
My dealer is totally awesome. PREMIER MAZDA GEORGETOWN, TEXAS
They worked on my finacing for hours. Had a manager, salesman, and that bank guy crunching numbers until i got approved. All their service been good. Only problem is that they 90 miles away. The local one is s*** though! Mazda South Austin

This is my first car and i don't care what anyone says - i keeping it for a long time (and my interior kicks ass)

 

[blizz81]

Nice to come back, take a quick look, and see that no new major problems have developed. For the record...

04 5-spd 4-door, ~7500 miles

- interior rattles. Here and there on the dash, pretty prevalent bass rattles on both front doors. Might have them take a look at the doors sometime, but it's probably something I'll deal with myself if I ever do a stereo install. Rattles aren't a big deal to me in this car - it's a little compact car, and pretty much every car I or my family has owned has had rattles. Even my 4th-gen Maxima, which originally sold for $31k to the first owner. My Acura was pretty bad too. This is a Mazda compact.

- rear brake dust. Yeah...new pads someday.

- occasional clunking in front suspension when going through a drive-thru, etc. I'm not really worried about this one, but it would be a hard issue to get solved with a service dept, methinks.


The car is pretty 'noisy' overall, but I expected that coming in. For the original poster to relate rattles to 'major issues', well...some people feel that way, but to me, a major issue is an actual drivetrain fault issue. I realize some people have had their clutch assembly replaced, and perhaps that's something to keep an eye on (also interesting to watch for tranny problems as these things age - not that I'm expecting any). My drivetrain seems fine and my clutch action and shifting action is still smooth as butter. My engine seems fine, but it loses bite near the top-end. That's how it runs though, not hesitation.

Still having fun over here

 

[netranger6]

I began experiencing some serious body roll. Took it in, and they replaced the strut mounts up front. Guess there's a TSB on 'em, and now, the turns I could only take at 60 MPH, I can now take at 70 or better, and it is well planted. Thus far, my customer service experience has been flawless.

 

[lilmama]

'04 5-door, manual tranny

so far...had a brake thumping--dealer fixed it in about ten minutes..something was disconnected

horrible tapping/thumping noise from engine/front end--need to call the dealer, but have to get the intake removed first to warranty isn't voided

brakes squeak in the cold

slight whine in engine (belt maybe?)--gonna get dealer to look at that too...only happens in the rain though (I think)

Question though...will after-market suspension void the entire warranty or just the suspension's warranty...I have H&R springs on there and DO NOT want to pay to have stock ones put back in before I take the car in.

I'll post an update when I find out what's going on

 

[mizzoudavis]

New speakers in Mazda3

Is it difficult to install new speakers in the 3? I'm trying toi eliminate that pesky door rattle, and I think that if I'm going to shred the door apart, I may as well put in new speakers.

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks

 

[justjames]

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks

I installed an XM radio SKYFi2 with wireless FM capability. Works great though it's not a direct in-line setup as you are looking for.

James

 

[scrivenerc]

I have 16K on my 3 and have had no problems that I havent caused my self, and I hope it stays that way(knock on wood) because I have so many mods done the warrenty has to be void.

 

[Newf]

all these problems are nice to know.I was considering maybe a mazdaspeed 3 next year if it comes out and I like it,


But if there is anything in the car that makes anything close to a clunk sound....forget it. Maybe Honda will have something decent by then...lol.

 

[goldwing2000]

Not so much a "clunk" as a "huge bloody pounding that sounds like the front end is going to fall off and launch the car ass-over-teakettle as the engine crossmember digs into the asphalt."

But other than that, I'm completely happy. (yippy)

In all reality, the problem could be solved by getting rid of the liquid-filled motor mounts and liquid-filled control arm bushings.

But then the yuppies would whine.

And Lord knows we can't have that.

Maybe they'll fix it for the 'Speed.

 

[mizzoudavis]

all these problems are nice to know.I was considering maybe a mazdaspeed 3 next year if it comes out and I like it,


But if there is anything in the car that makes anything close to a clunk sound....forget it. Maybe Honda will have something decent by then...lol.

Actually, Honda is revamping their Civic sport and putting the horsepower back in it. Might be something to wait for. I think it comes out in '05-'06.

 

[timt]

Is it difficult to install new speakers in the 3? I'm trying toi eliminate that pesky door rattle, and I think that if I'm going to shred the door apart, I may as well put in new speakers.

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks

I had some Kenwood's installed to replace the absolutely horrific sounding OEM speakers. Improved the sound quality 100%+. Cost around $300 complete. Well worth it.

 

[MARCB]

Wind Noise at 75 mph from Door

Has anyone experienced a wind noise, from thier door at higher speeds coming from above the latch/hasp area. It sound like it may be coming from the window drivers window, or may just be the weather stripping in the door?

Oh Liked the advice about the speakers, the factory ones are pretty weak.

 

[lospez54]

my 04 mazda3 5 door had a problem wit the power steering the 3rd day we got it anyone else had same problem?

 

[fam]

cheap ass paintjob, thinnest layer they can paint and it still look the same color

 

[KING13]

Has anyone experienced a wind noise, from thier door at higher speeds coming from above the latch/hasp area. It sound like it may be coming from the window drivers window, or may just be the weather stripping in the door?

Oh Liked the advice about the speakers, the factory ones are pretty weak.

There is a tsb on this here it is
S018/98 WIND NOISE AROUND DOORS
APPLICABLE MODELS
All models except Miata and MX-6.

DESCRIPTION
Wind noise around doors may occur with some vehicles. This may be caused by the door weather-strip seal.

Customers complaining of this should have their vehicle inspected and repaired according to this service bulletin.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify customer complaint.
Examine weather-strip for the following conditions:
Rips, tears, cuts
Loose or falling off
Excessive deterioration
If the weather-strip has any of the above conditions, replace it. Go to step 3.
If weather-strip does not have any of the above conditions, but wind noise still exists, proceed to the "Card Test" below.
Card Test
Open the door and insert a business card (0.2MM thickness) between the door and the weather-strip at the base of the A-pillar. Close the door.


Slide the business card up along the A-pillar.
If the card slides easily at any location along the A-pillar, the sealing contact between the door is insufficient and requires adjustment. Proceed to "DOOR ADJUSTMENT".
If there is consistent resistance, proceed to the "White Grease Test".
NOTE: The card test can only be used to evaluate the A-pillar sealing contact. Use the following "White Gease Test" to evaluate the rest of the weather-strip.

White Grease Test
Roll down windows and adequately cover all interior surfaces to prevent contact with grease.
Thoroughly and evenly spray the sheet metal surface of the body that seals against the weather-strip on the door.


NOTE: It is recommended that you use KAR Products #)78620 "Multi-purpose white grease (aerosol spray)" or equivalent.

Do not spray the weather-strip.

Using only the door handle, very gently close the door. This will prevent over-slam which could result in an inaccurate reading.
Open the door and measure the width of the grease pattern that is left along the length of the weather-strip (check for any unevenness in width)
If 4mm or more, sealing contact is adequate if door closing effort is acceptable. Clean grease from vehicle.
If 3mm or less, sealing contact is insufficient. Clean grease from vehicle and proceed to "DOOR ADJUSTMENT".
Door Adjustment
The door should be adjusted to obtain the proper seal compression while maintaining proper door alignment. The hinges control the in/out location of the door at the front as well as overall tip or tilt of the door when viewed from the front or rear. The door striker controls the in/out location of the door at the rear latch

CAUTION: Do not pry or force the door into alignment.

In addition to Workshop Manual procedures for door alignment, the following information tips are provided

As a guideline, if the weather-strip contact is insufficient, the door hinge(s) should be adjusted 2-4 mm inward. Determine the amount of movement by outlining the hinge mount area before door adjustment and after.


Adjusting one hinge at a time will prevent any extreme door movement. This is done by loosening the hinge bolts and moving the door with a padded pry bar just enough to permit movement of the door.
Hinges should be adjusted first, followed by the striker.
Adjustment to the rear door(s), if applicable, may require adjustments to the front door and possibly to the front fender to maintain alignment.
Door closing effort should be checked to ensure that it remains acceptable after adjustments are completed. If any doors are too difficult to close, the seal compression may be excessive and adjustment will need to be repeated.
After completing adjustments, verify seal compression by using the card test and white grease test.
Verify repair.
_________________
2001 Protege ES 2.0L* (AT, A/C, SPOILER) - 92.000kms
2004 Mazda3 GS 2.0L* (MT, A/C, POWER, SPORT) - 12.800kms

 

[souldout]

7 months - 15,600 miles...no problems yet

 

[My 3 and Me]

To fast and Too many miles but no problem

I have a 2004 Mazda 3i 4dr with 25k miles no problems with it at all just a cheap paint job, lot of little chips on it. At this rate ill need new paint on it next year (hump)