Cobb AP Discussion Thread

Ok, hence the reason for the DP and Perrin BCS. Even w/a DP the OEM BCS is maxed and w/only the EBCS the turbo is restricted given the targets. I think I understand this correctly?

Yep

What's an install like on those two items? DIY or shop?

Obviously depends on your level of skill/experience. The DP is by far the most involved, but is doable if not in a hurry.
 
Obviously depends on your level of skill/experience. The DP is by far the most involved, but is doable if not in a hurry.

The ebcs is not bad at all... Forz helped walk me through it, and I did a thorough "how to" but I don't remember if that made it onto this forum. The Perrin is great, but I had to tweak my wgdc tables a bit, but it wasn't that bad. The new Perrin ebcs's are plug n' play like the Grim-jobs, so you don't have to splice anything.

I was running my target of 20 PSI spot on, NP, and only running 80-90% wgdc with the stock turbo, stock dp, and just a TP and CBE. ONLY order the Perrin from Perrin directly, as he only made 25 plug n' play versions for the MS3/6 to start... I don't know if any of his distributors have them or not. Just a heads up!
 
ONLY order the Perrin from Perrin directly, as he only made 25 plug n' play versions for the MS3/6 to start... I don't know if any of his distributors have them or not. Just a heads up![/QUOTE]

Thanks! I'll look into it if it doesn't cost too much and will get me around a DP for now like you had it set up.
 
Does anyone have a base-line log of what things should look like? I'm newbie at AP-ing, and everyone is throwing numbers around.
 
I'd prob say to post a log and let some guys see what your car looks like w/your set up, they'll all be different. Main ones saftey wise are knock and AFR. You want 0 knock and WOT AFR's a min in the 10's but pref 11 or 12.
 
Alright....

I have a PG SRI only atm, and running the 91oct Stage 1+SF, cuz I believed it to be the closest to the current setup.
 

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Alright....

I have a PG SRI only atm, and running the 91oct Stage 1+SF, cuz I believed it to be the closest to the current setup.

Look at my log i posted and use those tables, add RPM and delete all those extra ones you have. Then do a 4th gear pull from 3k to 5500. Post that, this is way too long. You have 0 knock and AFR looks good enough to go WOT on your pull.
 
Look at my log i posted and use those tables, add RPM and delete all those extra ones you have. Then do a 4th gear pull from 3k to 5500. Post that, this is way too long. You have 0 knock and AFR looks good enough to go WOT on your pull.

I figured it was...lol. When I get back to my car, I'll run this.
 
Here it goes, there are way too many pages for me to read and I haven't gotten answers I'm looking for.
1.Will an AP originally used on a MS3 work on an MS6 (I've found many yes answers but nothing saying why or how)
2. How can I make a MS3 work for a MS6?
3. Can an AP monitor everything a DashHwark can?

Mods are in the sig and I'm picking up a catless CP-E DP this week and was informed a TBE will throw off my AFR w/out a AP. I've looked at the Cobb site and seen I fit the Stage2+ 93octane tune, except the fact that I also have a Cobb TIP, will that map work for me?
 
Here it goes, there are way too many pages for me to read and I haven't gotten answers I'm looking for.
1.Will an AP originally used on a MS3 work on an MS6 (I've found many yes answers but nothing saying why or how)
2. How can I make a MS3 work for a MS6?
3. Can an AP monitor everything a DashHwark can?

Mods are in the sig and I'm picking up a catless CP-E DP this week and was informed a TBE will throw off my AFR w/out a AP. I've looked at the Cobb site and seen I fit the Stage2+ 93octane tune, except the fact that I also have a Cobb TIP, will that map work for me?
 
1: Yes, as long as the MS3 owner unmarried it, it will work. Mine was for an MS3.
2: Should be able to just use the instructions, basically turn key to on(before start, dont start) and plug it in and it will load to your car, then you can load a map.
3: Don't know, don't have the DH but from what I've heard pretty much just different ways to get the data.

I don't know if the DP will throw off AFR, I got my Cobb first and just installed my DP Fri.
Hope this helps.
 
2: Should be able to just use the instructions, basically turn key to on(before start, dont start) and plug it in and it will load to your car, then you can load a map.
QUOTE]

wont the maps on there be for ms3 though? i know the maps are different. can i remove the OTS maps and put on ms6 ots maps?
 
I'm not sure if the maps are diff, I talked to a guy from Cobb about the AP and he said they were the same so I'm assuming the pre installed mapps are as well, key term is assuming though. You should be downloading an OTS mapp for your mods any way so you should be fine, I haven't used a pre loaded map.
 
I'm not sure if the maps are diff, I talked to a guy from Cobb about the AP and he said they were the same so I'm assuming the pre installed mapps are as well, key term is assuming though. You should be downloading an OTS mapp for your mods any way so you should be fine, I haven't used a pre loaded map.

got it, i thought the preloaded maps were the OTS maps.
more questions! lol
i just read on an older thread on MSF that with a stage 2 map, i would be needing a upgraded fuel pump. can you chime in on this?
also would at that point i need to upgrade the spark plugs? i've read this numerous times before and not sure which ones i should go with.
 
Just to clarify...it does not matter if there are MS3 maps saved to the AP you buy. What you will want to do is upload the map specific to your car and your mods onto the AP, then during the installation process, you will select which map to install to the car.

As far as the fuel pump goes, you can monitor your fuel pressure with the AP. This is not an issue for me because I am running a stage 1 map, but I believe the magic number is 1600 psi. As long as you are above that, you should be ok. On the plugs, conventional wisdom seems to be that stage two maps require one step-colder plugs (make sure the gap is correct; I don't recall the number off hand) and that they won't hurt with stage one. Again, you can monitor knock retard with the AP.
 
I've read thru most of the AP stuff on here, but might have missed this.... How do i run MY stock map that the AP stored on install? I've been running a stage1 93 v105 map for a few weeks. The first few hundred miles I had no Kr, but now that the maps settled in, I see Kr alot. Spikes 5+ at times, and alot of the common .3-1 that everyone talks about. Anyway, I'd like to run my stock map, not the cobb stock if possible. I did the "expose ecu rom" or whatever so it can be accessed in AP manager, but it's not listed as a map? Thanks for any help.
 
yeah, i didn't want to do that cause the AP is the only thing i have to log with, and as far as i know, you can't log without it installed. I just installed the stock v105 map and I'm running it. Still getting low knock values (below 1). I'll put some more miles on it and see what happens. The stage1 93 v105 ran good, everything was in check on the logs, except some high knock readings. I know its been beat to death on here and not to worry about low degree knock, but some were over 5, and the highest was over 7 (didn't actaully feel anything tho, and most of the high values were under low load at freeway speeds)
 
Guys, I need some help ajusting my map to hold the boost better. I'm spiking at 20 but before I hit 6k it's tapered off to 13.5 and I know it's supposed to stay aroung 16.5. How can I get the boost to hang on till 6k? Or could it be my bpv not holding it, I'm running yellow w/2shims in the Forge? Thanks!
 
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