Cobb AP Discussion Thread

I agree. I mean I do engineering work for a living so reading thermal data and specifications is second-nature to me. But damn, this stuff is pretty heavy and difficult to decipher.

My car feels like it's running funny after the Stage2 map and/or colder heat range spark plugs. It feels a little rougher at idle (which I think is normal for a colder plug) as well as feels like it surges at part throttle and WOT. Engine acceleration and power output just does not feel smooth. I am hoping to comprehend this ATR spec soon so I can tweak the Stage2 map that is installed.
 
you want to see mine? ok...this is 3rd gear i believe from a few weeks ago. i just tweaked some stuff in my map for partial throttle so i'll have to put some miles on it before i do a new one.

may_log1.jpg
 
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you guys using the stock O2 sensor to log or an external? haha all this rain we've been getting down here made my wideband take a dump...
 
sorry but those numbers arent close. its a nice feature but i think they are still working on it. the other day i dynod 320 whp on the AP
 
do you know for fact that it is accurate and acually a wideband and not a narrow band O2 sensor? just askin not trying to discredit you.
 
yeah its been tested over and over by cobb and cp-e. the 2nd O2 sensor is narrow band, thats why the first one is so expensive to replace because it is in fact a wideband.
 
Cobb AP maps

In looking at the beta maps on mzsd.com; what do you use/think would be the best map for me?

MY set up is test pipe and fujita CAI and with the Fed tune. 93 octane is what I use

In my understanding, stage 2 beta maps are for cars with test pipe/dp and intake.

Best map?
Stage 2 93 v101d or
Stage 2 +SF v101c or
Stage 1+FUCAI 93 v101c

Thanks for the input.
 
Out of the ones you have listed I would either go with Stage1 +FUCAI 93 and remove your test pipe or go with Stage2 93 and remove your Fujita intake.

With my mods (see below) I started on a Stage1 +SF 93 and ended up with LTFT's so high I got 260 miles on a tank of gas. Bova helped me out and advised to use a Stage2 map because of the test pipe and I've been running well ever since. Moral of the story is... Stage1 with a test pipe didn't work out too well for me.

Hope this helps!
 
go with stage 2 as said..or ull end up getting bad gas mileage.. i had almost the same result as blendercloud but now on stage 2 im getting 300-340 a tank depending on how much spirited driving i do which is ok..
 
Haha. I need hit the e-brake switch and see if the numbers increase. Just sold my ets 3.5" tmic and am running back to stage 1. My car feels slow now!
 
do frontmount... i read this on a thread just cant recal wich one or what forum but a dude did just engine work on his speed6 and he had 310hp and 340t thats with the turbo untouchd .. after he pickd up boost to 19psi or 20 not really sure he was at 360hp and 398torque.. i just wish i can find it again.. he said hes been runing that setup for a year no thrue abuse and all and not 1 problem.. 12.4 his 1/4 showd time slip =).. this made me extremely happyy!! our cars do have potential tuners just arent workin as hard as they did on evos and other cars for tunning solutions.. i gurantee u 1 more year and price of speed6 will sore due to the fact that new tunning solutions will come out wich will make it just as fast or faster then the evo.. just my 2cents
 
I am doing a custom fmic. Ordered most of the parts already. Just need to fab up a pipe and put a stock flange on it for my forge. When its all said and done I will have spent just under 600 bucks. I will post up a thread when I start to tackle this. Engine bay ought to look sick when im finished :)
 
what parts did u order exactly.. im intrested in doing a custom job myself.. try and post up pics and steps.. BE MY HEROO!!!!
 

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