Clutch is slipping bad

[PaulMP3]

I had my dealer install a CM stage 3 clutch in my MP3 about 5 months ago when i had my LSD put in. Friday night it started slipping and wouldnt allow me to boost over 5psi. Now it barely lets me build boost without slipping.

What could have cause this to fail so soon???

it doesnt have more then 6000 miles on it 4000 boosted?

I instantly called mazda to confirm that they put it in. They say it must be defective, there is no way a clutch could wear out that fast. Others told me mazda might have installed in incorectly..

As of now my plan is to get a ACT clutch, and have wagnermotorsports install it, so i can watch and learn as it gets installed. It looks like it is gonna be next thurs or next saturday till it will be installed.

Im gonna contact RR racing and clutch masters and see what they say. This is BS, i tried to be ready for my future power and it back fired. I would like to do some tranny work/stregthen while it is open, but i cant be without my car so that will get put off.

 

[PaulMP3]

Also what stage and types of clutch is recomended for at least 250whp, but easiest on the tranny??

 

[MalkavianMP3]

They don't rate clutches by horsepower. They rate them by torque. you'll need to figure out what kind of torque numbers you're gonna be making before looking into a clutch. Granted it is safe to say that with that kind of horsepower and having seen the numbers posted by other turboed proteges, I'd say you'll be around the 270-300 ft.lbs range. You might want to stick to the stage 3 clutches.

 

[PaulMP3]

yea i want something strong enough to allow me to continue to upgrade my power. For now i am staying stock internals but i have been thinking of getting forged someday.

 

[Equinox]

did you break your clutch in properly when you got it, for the first 500 miles? if not it can really make a clutch worthless

 

[TheMAN]

did you break your clutch in properly when you got it, for the first 500 miles? if not it can really make a clutch worthless

 

[1sty]

My stage 1 is still holding just fiine other then high rev downshifts to 3rd/4th.

I have no clue what a proper clutch brake in includes. I just continued to drive as I always do.

 

[PaulMP3]

i went easy on it for the first few hundred miles, as instructed by my dealer. im not sure 500, but atleast 2-300 miles.

Want to explain how poor break-in would cause this??

Is it possible that mazda never adjusted it right, causing it to wear or not engage fully engage? over the past few months i have been hearing a noise from my car and when i depress the clutch it would go away. i thought it was another noise caused by my awr rear motor mount?

 

[TheMAN]

glazed clutch

 

[1sty]

Are you going to describe anything or just ilude to things?

Explain what that is and what casued it?
Not to mention how to break in a clutch.

 

[PaulMP3]

could that clicking/tapping sound be cause by a glazed clutch?

i went driving today and it wasnt slipping, but i couldnt boost over 5psi?? It seems better when i let the car sit longer. The car felt real good today, i just cant hit full boost. Andy says im not making boost because im not creatin a big enough load.

 

[PaulMP3]

Are you going to describe anything or just ilude to things?

Explain what that is and what casued it?
Not to mention how to break in a clutch.

werd, i dont want to wreck this one.

 

[TheMAN]

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/drivetrain_tips.html

 

[Bigg Tim]

The spec clutches seem to be good. They have them for up to 439 ft'lbs of torque. Prices are $279 to $439. Check out their site http://www.specclutch.com/. Better stay with one of the lower ones like stage 2 maybe 3 so it won't be so hard on your drive train.

 

[Installshield 2]

Paul, what did they do with your flywheel when you upgraded the clutch? Did they "turn" it (similar to what they do with brake rotors), replace it, or did you buy a lightweight flywheel?

I vaguely remember in another thread that you had a lightweight flywheel, and that may be your problem...Aluminum flywheels include composite (can be a number of different materials) "friction" plates that are mounted on the flywheel itself...What sucks is that now you sort of have two clutch blades...and it is like old christmas tree lights...when one goes the whole thing does...It may be as simple as needing a replacement set of flywheel plates which can hopefully be purchased by whoever you got the wheel from...They are dirt cheap, but obviously involve removing the gearbox, clutch, and flywheel to reinstall...And in a lot of cases, those plates are desinged for the stock clutches tension strength...which is a round about way of saying they usually go before a stronger clutch assembly...

 

[PaulMP3]

Paul, what did they do with your flywheel when you upgraded the clutch? Did they "turn" it (similar to what they do with brake rotors), replace it, or did you buy a lightweight flywheel?

I vaguely remember in another thread that you had a lightweight flywheel, and that may be your problem...Aluminum flywheels include composite (can be a number of different materials) "friction" plates that are mounted on the flywheel itself...What sucks is that now you sort of have two clutch blades...and it is like old christmas tree lights...when one goes the whole thing does...It may be as simple as needing a replacement set of flywheel plates which can hopefully be purchased by whoever you got the wheel from...They are dirt cheap, but obviously involve removing the gearbox, clutch, and flywheel to reinstall...And in a lot of cases, those plates are desinged for the stock clutches tension strength...which is a round about way of saying they usually go before a stronger clutch assembly...

I have a Fidanza 9lb flywheel?

How will i know this is the problem for sure, i dont have the skills to do the clutch install myself. I am planning on heading up to York Pa (about 1:45mins away) next thurs to get this fixed by Andy wagner. I cant afford to go up there with no clutch and find out it is the clutch? Can i get stronger plates?


Also last night i went driving it again and it wouldnt slip for me, i only drove it for about 30mins, it still wouldnt let me go above 5psi, when my MBC is set to around 8psi?

If it is the clutch i need to order it soon, to have it for next thursday. I didnt get a chance to make any calls today, but im gonna send RR racing an Email tonight.


If it is the clutch, what clutches are recomended. I remember reading people trashed their trannys using the ACT 4 and 6 puct clutches. Im not sure if the stage 1 will hold the power i want to put down.

 

[Bigg Tim]

Check out spec clutch. They have high torque ones for a good price. Stay with the stage I or II, they're would be easier on the drivetrain.

 

[PaulMP3]

Check out spec clutch. They have high torque ones for a good price. Stay with the stage I or II, they're would be easier on the drivetrain.

I would, but i dont know anyone else who uses one? I would like to go with ACT because everyone praises them. Just the torque rating on the stage 1 is too low for me. Also the Spec clutches look to be a puck design which i heard are harsh.

hopefully i dont need a new clutch, if installshield is correct....how will i know though??

 

[PaulMP3]

i cant find 2.0l on the spec web page. You have a link?

 

[LinuxRacr]

Hey, check my sig for the exact one I have. Go to http://www.advancedclutch.com for more details.