Clutch is slipping bad
- Thread starter PaulMP3
- Start date
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
How strong the clutch needs to be depends on your driving style..obviously a clutch rated at over 400lb/ft would not be needed...But read up on the disc materials to see what type it is...Copper composite puck clutch discs are usually very grabby and tough to use smoothly, which shows when the gearbox snaps off the engine...but a number of other materials are used in the clutch market that still offer incredible capacity and pretty smooth engagement...that is what you need...
buy a clutch that is close to the torque output you will eventually have...If the clutch is noticably difficult to smoothly engage, you will just simply need to shift slowly and smoothly...you probably have to do that anyway for traction issues...
Every dude I heard of that blows the box apart hurried a shift with a mega clutch from 3 to 4...at those ratio's and vehicle speeds it is difficult to loose tire traction, and with your tight engine mounts the gear box is probably the weakest link...You simply cannot fly through the gears with that much torque...The clutch will rarely save your gearbox if it is well selected (if you have 300lb/ft of torque and the stock clutch...obviously that would...but if your clutch is close in capacity to your engine the box is still vulnerable)...and just becuase it's holding capacity is close to that of the engine's output does not mean you are completely in the clear...
buy a clutch that is close to the torque output you will eventually have...If the clutch is noticably difficult to smoothly engage, you will just simply need to shift slowly and smoothly...you probably have to do that anyway for traction issues...
Every dude I heard of that blows the box apart hurried a shift with a mega clutch from 3 to 4...at those ratio's and vehicle speeds it is difficult to loose tire traction, and with your tight engine mounts the gear box is probably the weakest link...You simply cannot fly through the gears with that much torque...The clutch will rarely save your gearbox if it is well selected (if you have 300lb/ft of torque and the stock clutch...obviously that would...but if your clutch is close in capacity to your engine the box is still vulnerable)...and just becuase it's holding capacity is close to that of the engine's output does not mean you are completely in the clear...
hey paul...i just had an act HDSS clutch installed...i used my stock flywheel and am being a good boy with occasional trips to 8psi (though it is wet today and the wheel break loose in 3rd under full acceleration)
you can get the 2lb lighter jdm one from protege5online for $132...it is a good investment just in case...anyway andy is going to track this sunday to see me...you want to stop by if you can? they have several events there like spec miata and honda challenge and 944 cup...lots of fun and the weather is supposed to be nice
you can get the 2lb lighter jdm one from protege5online for $132...it is a good investment just in case...anyway andy is going to track this sunday to see me...you want to stop by if you can? they have several events there like spec miata and honda challenge and 944 cup...lots of fun and the weather is supposed to be nice
http://www.specclutch.com/
Just click on Mazda/Protege/2002 and they will show up.
The stage I and II are not the puck type, they are more of an organic material. MPNick uses them and has had nothing but good luck with them. I remember someone on this forum getting one, but I can't remember who. They seem to have the highest torque rating compared to ACT and Cluthmasters.
Just click on Mazda/Protege/2002 and they will show up.
The stage I and II are not the puck type, they are more of an organic material. MPNick uses them and has had nothing but good luck with them. I remember someone on this forum getting one, but I can't remember who. They seem to have the highest torque rating compared to ACT and Cluthmasters.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Also Paul, if you end up needing a new clutch the material the disc is made of is usually the deciding factor on it's service life...ultra powerful race "puck" copper discs rarely last very long anyway...and the higher faster the tension (engagement properties) the shorter it's service life...
Here is just another guess...becuase of your flywheel are you needing to slip the clutch a lot to get the car moving? You need to rev more at a normal stop to overcome the lack of rotational inertia, which wears on the clutch faster? Honestly for longer clutch life with your torque output, you may need to switch back to your stock iron one...This may be why the clutch wore so fast, despite staying out of boost all the time...
Here is just another guess...becuase of your flywheel are you needing to slip the clutch a lot to get the car moving? You need to rev more at a normal stop to overcome the lack of rotational inertia, which wears on the clutch faster? Honestly for longer clutch life with your torque output, you may need to switch back to your stock iron one...This may be why the clutch wore so fast, despite staying out of boost all the time...
Installshield 2 said:
Yes i did tend to have to slip the clutch a lil on startups top avoid bucking. I really like the feel of the light weight flywheel though...
I emailed rr racing they said the flywheel plates are 75$shipped... ouch. Any where else anyone know i can get them??
Andy would like me to bring my car up there and open it up and inspect b4 actually replacing the clutch, but i dont think i will be able to get a ride up there and back.
Today i still couldnt get my clutch to slip though...
New ACT installed today... It feels much better already, the engagement and pedal feel is much "sportier" than the clutchmasters.
I will go into more detail and post pics tomorrow night on the Clutch master stage 3. the flywheel side was in perfect shape, but the other side was burnt up, but not horribly. Im gonna be calling CM and sending pics to see what they can do. ANdy mentioned that the pressure plate could have the wrong springs or my dealer might have got grease on the one side of the clutch.. It was a wierd situation... There were a bunch of guys who have been around cars/racing for a while and never saw anything like it before..
Like i said pics anda better explaination tomorrow... I gotta log some miles on this ACT so i can start boosting agiang
I will go into more detail and post pics tomorrow night on the Clutch master stage 3. the flywheel side was in perfect shape, but the other side was burnt up, but not horribly. Im gonna be calling CM and sending pics to see what they can do. ANdy mentioned that the pressure plate could have the wrong springs or my dealer might have got grease on the one side of the clutch.. It was a wierd situation... There were a bunch of guys who have been around cars/racing for a while and never saw anything like it before..
Like i said pics anda better explaination tomorrow... I gotta log some miles on this ACT so i can start boosting agiang
midnightracr
Member
- :
- Mazda,MP3
What Stage is it? What website did u order it from? Thanx in advance
I went out driving it some more tonight.. This clutch seems to engage much quicker then the Clutch master. It also feels smoother when releasing the clutch. I also put in some new redline MT-90. We removed the old mt-90 that had about 10,00 miles on it, and the stuff looked brand new still, totally clear. I remember when i drained it down the first time i put mt-90 in, and it was brown. My tranny feels as smooth as ever now, although i havent had a chance to drive it hard due to break in. My 2nd gear has been extra notchy lately, prior to this.
I put some more break in miles on tonight.. My car seems less jerky now when letting off the gas, and also while shifting going slow.
I have more pics, but they are on Andy's camera. I will take some pics of the CM also. My battery died on my camera.
midnightracr
Member
- :
- Mazda,MP3
that looks saweeeet. What website did u order it from
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
Is that a stage 1?
Is everything still in the car?
Man, I still need to get off my butt and install my clutch. . .it is just sitting on a shelf in my garage.
Very cool to get a CM vs. ACT from a single party. . .heard ACT was better, but now we at least know someone who tried them back to back.
Is everything still in the car?
Man, I still need to get off my butt and install my clutch. . .it is just sitting on a shelf in my garage.
Very cool to get a CM vs. ACT from a single party. . .heard ACT was better, but now we at least know someone who tried them back to back.
midnightracr said:
I had www.wagnermotorsports.net get it for me...
i dont remember the part #, but it is the one most commonly use on the forum.. it is rated at 268 ft/lb... Yea it sucks i have had 2 aftermarket clutches in my car after being boosted for only 5000 miles :wtf: I still have to get to my dealer and call CM abut the defective clutch.
For an update... i got 400+ miles on it already and i gave it a nice beating this morning, it feels great.. I really love the pedal feel of this clutch, not to mention my tranny has never felt so smooth. It feels like the day i bought the car
I am boosting 7psi at the moment, the car feels awesome.georgecastaneda
Member
- :
- 2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
i just got an stage 2 installed and i would like to know how to drive it during break in period. i just dont wanna messup the clutch.
answers would be appreciated
thanks
answers would be appreciated
thanks
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
like a granny
