Can we take off the MAF?
- Thread starter ca_deal1
- Start date
7dollarbill1
Member
- :
- Sport Compact Pro sponsered MSP
ca_deal1 said:
Put it on the cold side of the ic pipes(ic-tb) smothes out the idle and the car runs a lot better you have to get hard pipes to do this but it helps then put the filter on the turbo
Hypnotized
Member
- :
- 03.5 MS Protege-Gone 07 MS3
I have heard that as well in a previous post with the MAF. There is no other way to get rid of the MAF as of yet. I would buy an intake if I were you. I have an injen for sale if oyur interested.
I remember one day my MAF just popped off while I was driving (forgot to tighten the clap on its coupler). It was scary and kinda funny now that I think about it.
The car started pushing 3000 rpm no matter what I would do to the gas pedal as if the thottle sensor went out then after about 10 seconds, it just died. When I opened the hood and saw the MAF and the filter lying there and realized what happened, I never felt so much relief in my entire life! LOL!
The car started pushing 3000 rpm no matter what I would do to the gas pedal as if the thottle sensor went out then after about 10 seconds, it just died. When I opened the hood and saw the MAF and the filter lying there and realized what happened, I never felt so much relief in my entire life! LOL!
Do me a favor and don't put a filter right on the turbo with stock position / setup. How did you think for a second you could just remove a sensor from the engine... especially the MAF.!?!? Anyway, if you get a shorter intake, you can put the MAF on the cold pipe if necessary. Just cut a section out of it that is the same length as the MAF and put it in. Just don't screw it up.... and make sure you put it in the right direction.
hawaiian_msp
Member
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- Boosted Familia
you can take it off........
as long as you put it back on
j/k
as long as you put it back on
j/kca_deal1 said:
I will say my car ran better when I moved mine. If you open up the wire loom and separate the IAT and MAF wires from each other, the MAF wires should actually reach the new location, with the IAT reaching its stock location at the same time. I separated, and re-taped each set of wires... it turned out pretty good. For them to reach, you should put the MAF closer to the TB than the IC. Mine is right next to the battery on the IC->TB pipe. Good luck.
shiiiit you know I am always willing to help around here
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437
Soon there will be an air-box around an Apexi filter
The MAF is flat and to the left more, there was a useless bracket that was holding it to the right as you can see in the pic.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437
Soon there will be an air-box around an Apexi filter
The MAF is flat and to the left more, there was a useless bracket that was holding it to the right as you can see in the pic.
CasopoliS said:shiiiit you know I am always willing to help around here
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437
Soon there will be an air-box around an Apexi filter
The MAF is flat and to the left more, there was a useless bracket that was holding it to the right as you can see in the pic.
hahahaha
yeah this is one of those things that just makes so much damn sense it seems like a no-brainer - but of course I'm no mechanic. what would be the advantages to the stock setup? i.e. why wasn't it originally this way?
btw what is the garden hose being used for in there?
edit - nevermind, for your bpv
I just didn't read far enough
Last edited:
chwood said:
Putting the MAF on the pressure side will lower its life-expectancy, and getting a strong one is much more $ and really isn't needed. They don't design the cars with the intention of anyone touching the setup (well to a degree). It works just fine in the stock position, esp if you keep all the air in the system with a BPV.
CasopoliS said:
Well I have been thinking about it and I conclude that POSSIBLY... if you have a leak after the MAF while it is in the stock position, (WHICH IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE), the metered vs actual intake would not be accurate. In other words, you would tell your PCM that you are taking in X amount of air, PCM adds fuel to balance out the mixture while unknowlingly creating a richer mix than the original intent.
As a matter of fact, I am convinced that we have inherent boost leaks that are not detectable by the standard carb cleaner trick.
By moving the MAF as close to the TB as possible, you could possibly negate the downfalls of boost leak by only metering the air that is actually ingested by the TB after the leak.
Just my 2 cents...
What you just said is 100% true, and has been said by many all over this forum. Its actually a known fact. That is why people have problems running just a blow-off valve. They are releasing metered air. The engine will stall upon fast decelerations. That is why so many run a dual valve setup... where they recirculate, and blow-off the air. Kinda like 50/50. I moved my MAF right before my TB so it best represented what was going into my engine. Car runs much better. BUT... my MAF will not last that long under boost conditions.
