Calibrated Autometer A/F Gauge

Ezeikiel

Member
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03' MSP #524
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/machv/cybairgaug.html has autometer a/f gauges recalibrated to read .76 to .96 volts instead of .05 to 1.0 volts. they claim it will stay dark until the car is at high / wot and then it should read out (when you really need it). can someone tell me what voltage the stock O2 sensor is reading at idle or highway when it is in open loop? And what voltage is at wot in closed loop? if this will be usefull instead of a lightshow, ill probably order one tomorrow. They are showing 4 colors (black, white, silver, and carbon fiber). I emailed them to find out if the silver was the ultra lite gauge to match the car or something else. if its the right range, it will go from .05 per led to .01 per led and get rid of the lightshow during open loop.
 
they are selling the same thing - recalibrated autometer led style gauges. i hadnt run accross or heard of gadgetseller.com before. if someone can give me the voltages we are running at wot and idle so i can make sure the gauge is in the correct range i will order one. ive been wanting the a/f, but didnt want a useless lightshow. jred - have you dealt with gadgetseller.com before?
 
Ezeikiel said:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/machv/cybairgaug.html has autometer a/f gauges recalibrate to read .76 to .96 volts instead of .05 to 1.0 volts. they claim it will stay dark until the car is at high / wot and then it should read out (when you really need it). can someone tell me what voltage the stock O2 sensor is reading at idle or highway when it is in open loop?

During open loop, I'm not sure the exact voltage reading, but the PCM pretty much just disregards the O2 sensor, and goes to predetermined fuel maps for a given TPS/MAF signals. So, it's just cycling the injectors at a very high duty cycle and you would see the extreme right green LEDs lit indicating a rich condition. I think it's going to be on the upper end of the voltage spectrum.

And what voltage is at wot in closed loop?

At WOT the car should be in open loop, I think you got the two mixed up.

At Closed loop, the PCM is taking inputs from the O2 and other sensors to help maintain the desired A/F ratio.

if this will be useful instead of a lightshow, ill probably order one tomorrow. They are showing 4 colors (black, white, silver, and carbon fiber). I emailed them to find out if the silver was the ultra light gauge to match the car or something else. if its the right range, it will go from .05 per led to .01 per led and get rid of the lightshow during open loop.

Sounds to me like they just snipped the leads on all but the green LEDs and are charging more for doing so.

I would be interested in knowing exactly how they calibrated the gauge before I laid out $100 for it.

The gauge looks exactly the same as most of us are running.
 
correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't the gauge be steady at open loop? it should only be cycling back and forth in closed loop as that's what the computer is doing....constantly changing the a/f ratio.
 
my bad, long day. stolen from http://www.flyinmiata.com/protege/tech/ecu_theory.asp

ECUs have two basic modes: open loop and closed loop operation.

Closed loop means that the ECU looks at inputs such as the front O2 sensor and adjusts the fuel for the ideal stoichiometric ratio for maximum efficiency. The ECU makes a change, looks at the O2 readout, makes a change - looping around.

Open loop means that the ECU will ignore most of the sensors and run off the pre-programmed fixed fuel and timing maps. These are very rich, partially for safety. For emissions reasons, the stock ECU will run in closed loop as often as possible. Over a certain load - calculated by air flow - the ECU will go open loop.
 
this will make the gauge a little more useful, as you will be able to know the actual voltage of the o2 sensor and that will indicate whether you are rich or not, and it will stop the light show. i'd rather have a read out of what the gauge is reading though than have to count lights, but at a glance the lights may be easier, you just need to remember what lights are what voltage.
i haven't dealt with gadgetseller.com, but i have heard of people who have with no problems.
 
Striker187 said:
correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't the gauge be steady at open loop? it should only be cycling back and forth in closed loop as that's what the computer is doing....constantly changing the a/f ratio.

You are correct!
 
right striker, im just looking for what voltage the o2 sensor is showing at wot. that way i can figure out what to expect the gauge to show. then i can decide if it will be usefull, or just a wot 'rave' as you put it.
 
i have the automeather A/f guage from gagetsellers and it works great the light show is still but the reading are a lil bit more accurate and it aslo comes with a recalbrated booklet that shows what all the LEDs mean. it is more steady than the unmodified A/F guage. this guage is set up for boosted cars un like the reg. ones
 
Ezeikiel said:
right striker, im just looking for what voltage the o2 sensor is showing at wot. that way i can figure out what to expect the gauge to show. then i can decide if it will be usefull, or just a wot 'rave' as you put it.
at WOT there is no light show mine pegs out at the last green led.
 
thanks everyone for the info - ill probably go with jred and order a digital readout gauge that shows voltage. i was hoping that the 02 sensor didnt show high enough voltage to peg the modified gauge like the standard one. thanks again
 
sorry to thread jack.... is it pretty easy to wire in a a/f on a stock p5?

thanks,
matt
 
Dude just go w/ an EGT..they go for around $200..and they are allot more accurate..from what i hear!

Chas
 

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