I have always changed the oil and filter after the 1st 1000 mi on all of my new cars. Never had an issue with oil or engine trouble. Current P5 has 159,000 miles and runs great.
Burning/Losing Oil
- Thread starter jonlong
- Start date
I have always changed the oil and filter after the 1st 1000 mi on all of my new cars. Never had an issue with oil or engine trouble. Current P5 has 159,000 miles and runs great.
I thought I had a burning oil problem too. I did not.
The problem was that I go over 120kph on the highway in which the F/A mixture becomes full rich from what I've read.
Going slower actually took care of my problem.....
It's just not as fun......
That's exactly what it is. Whenever I drive over 120 on the highway to and from school, I noticed over the course of a few days I lose a lot of oil. When I keep at 110, it's fine. Weird.
My P5 from 2003 had this problem a while ago, it only have 35,000 miles... first i noticed that when the P5 is not started in 3 or 4 days it starts to smoke burning oil until warms up, a few months ago the oil light brighten my face while driving and a noise from the motor.....BEARINGS damaged for the lack of oil, the motor only had 1 quarter of oil......got to throw the motor down and repair all bearings...they sound like hell when damage... Finally I got the P5 back and it still sometimes burn oil, also I noticed that the oil sensor from the back, just under the intake manifold is draining oil...just a little, but no oil stains on the floor, I asked the dealer and it is the NOC sensor or something like that, and when they are damage they drain oil only when the motor is running and hot, so there will be no stains of oil on the garage. That was what they told me on the mazda dealer. If anyone have this same problem let me know...
Tks...
Tks...
Yeah, I know that a lot of people do that. If you get a chance to talk to an engine builder, ask him what he thinks. I'll do the same. I grew up with iron blocks and no sleeves, so maybe my knowlege is out dated.
Burning oil as well:/
Well..my car has 115K on it, and it's been burning oil for awhile now, but now its getting worse, I have to add a bottle of oil every week, and at start up in the morning the P5 will smoke for about 15-30 sec. I've been told that the valve seal on the P5 is not that great and especially if you run synthetic oil in it, it will break down the seal faster. I've ran mobile 1 for awhile and now I have 20w-50 in. Now, since it's burning so much oil, I'm thinking of either dropping an engine in, or rebuilding it, my question is what's more cost effecient? Rebuilt or engine swap? Also, I have someone here locally that has an automatic engine for sale, would it work with a manual? Thanks! ...."Gotta get the smoke out!!" Sorry for the threadjack
Well..my car has 115K on it, and it's been burning oil for awhile now, but now its getting worse, I have to add a bottle of oil every week, and at start up in the morning the P5 will smoke for about 15-30 sec. I've been told that the valve seal on the P5 is not that great and especially if you run synthetic oil in it, it will break down the seal faster. I've ran mobile 1 for awhile and now I have 20w-50 in. Now, since it's burning so much oil, I'm thinking of either dropping an engine in, or rebuilding it, my question is what's more cost effecient? Rebuilt or engine swap? Also, I have someone here locally that has an automatic engine for sale, would it work with a manual? Thanks! ...."Gotta get the smoke out!!" Sorry for the threadjack
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dmjddm9999
Member
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- 2001 mazda protege mp3
I also had a similiar problem with oil burning at a rapid speed. It turns out that I am losing compression, which in turn means that I am losing power. Check your spark plugs to see if there is any oil on them or on top of your pistons. If there is, then your piston rings are bad.
dmjddm9999
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
an enigine rebuild alone would cost over $2000. It's cheaper to just purchase a replacement motor. Definatley go with an engine swap. Yes, this engine would work on a manual trans. the trans it came off of doesnt matter.
If its burning that much oil on startup then there is leak down from the valve seals.
But from the sounds of it you have multiple issue. Leaky valve cover, leaky valve seals. Not pointing fingers but the valve seal damage was probably cause by either high rpm abuse or oil starvation issues which may be due to a third issue we haven't even though about yet.
Bottom line? Cheaper to replace the motor then fix it.
But from the sounds of it you have multiple issue. Leaky valve cover, leaky valve seals. Not pointing fingers but the valve seal damage was probably cause by either high rpm abuse or oil starvation issues which may be due to a third issue we haven't even though about yet.
Bottom line? Cheaper to replace the motor then fix it.
MonkeyBone
Member
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- Silver 2007 6 Sport
BUMP!
How much $$ for a new valve cover gasket? I got to change mine, there is some chunks of it that are missing. I dont loose much oil, 1 liter every 5000 km but it smells bad because oil is leaking on the side of the cover.
How much $$ for a new valve cover gasket? I got to change mine, there is some chunks of it that are missing. I dont loose much oil, 1 liter every 5000 km but it smells bad because oil is leaking on the side of the cover.
Chunks missing - man that's bad. Replace it now. They run about $30, high but you need it. If it looked OK but seeped a little, I'd say try to clean it up and spread some silicone gasket sealer (O2 sensor safe only!) on it and reassemble. The thing with these gaskets is you can't really tighten them. The valve cover touches the head at the bolt holes - once the gasket loses a little flexibility, it will seep.
MonkeyBone
Member
- :
- Silver 2007 6 Sport
OK Thanks!
Like I said its not leaking like crazy but ill check that promptly.
Like I said its not leaking like crazy but ill check that promptly.
I think that's exactly what's happening to my P5. I just changed my oil and filter a week ago at most, and now I'm border-line dry on the stick. I can't find a leak anywhere, but the tip of my exhaust is thick black just on the inside, and it seems to be speckling the back hatch. You think the aftermarket muffler could be the problem??
flat_black
Member
Head gasket, valve seals, oil cap seal, valve cover seal, and PCV grommet. All those tend to evacuate oil pretty handily. In the event of an overheat, too, your head could bow a little, given that it's aluminum, which can account for a drop in compression in one or all cylinders. Also, at higher RPM, it seems like the PCV system recirculates a LOT of oil, which, of course, causes the oil to burn. If you were to attach a PCV catch tank, you could monitor just how much it's forcing out.
A few thoughts for you folks. =)
A few thoughts for you folks. =)
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Nope, my exhaust is black, and it's stock...I think my valve guide seals are bad.
flat_black
Member
Head number three is off getting cleaned, and milled down .030". Valve seals were dropped on at the same time. I've had some really good luck with Toga's performance seals. They're vitron rubber, and tend to seal a little better than the stockers.
My first head that was torn down had worn seals, and I think the valves could do with a good coating of anti-friction material. So, if I tear down this head again, that may be the direction I go.
Either way, try the Toga valve seals.
My first head that was torn down had worn seals, and I think the valves could do with a good coating of anti-friction material. So, if I tear down this head again, that may be the direction I go.
Either way, try the Toga valve seals.
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MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Thanks for the heads up!
I'm curious as to what kind of symptoms you were having with this. My car has recently developed a pretty serious oil consumption problem (gone through more than 2 qts in the last three weeks) and I'm trying to find the source. No smoke on throttle - only smokes if a turn the car on and immediately start moving without letting it really warm up or if when I'm cruising at highway speeds I let off the gas for some time to slow down and then get back on the gas to maintain speed I get a nice puff of smoke visible through the rear window. I've got three possible sources: piston rings, turbo seals or valve seals and right now I'm leaning towars the valve seals.
flat_black
Member
Generally, I would consume a large gulp of oil when I throttled down, and it would stink like holy hell of unburnt hydrocarbons when someone was following me. You wouldn't SEE smoke, per se, but if someone is following you, they'll be able to tell you're burning scads of oil.
The consumption rate sounds about right, though; 2q per month or so, with only moderate levels of driving (but I hammer the hell out of my car, pretty much all the time.)
The consumption rate sounds about right, though; 2q per month or so, with only moderate levels of driving (but I hammer the hell out of my car, pretty much all the time.)
