Burning/Losing Oil

jonlong

Member
:
2003.5 Black MP5
Hey guys, I have a problem with oil loss and I can't find a good explanation. I change my oil and filter every 3k-4k miles. I always add the quantity specified in the owner's manual. After about 1500-2000 miles of driving, though, I need to add a lot of oil. Last time I checked it, the dipstick was dry and it took about 2.5 quarts to get it back to the proper level. My exhuast doesn't show signs of burning oil, and I can't find a leak anywhere. I found a piece of my valve cover gasket that was tearing off, and there appears to be some oil residue around that area (near the oil fill cap, but not due to spilled oil). I ordered a new gasket, but I don't think that it will change anything. Could I be losing that much oil through a small leak in that gasket?

Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot!
 
Not sure how many miles are on your car but I had the same thing recently. I had just switched to mobil 1 with 85K on the clock after having used the blended synthetic since I bought it with 36K. I added some Restore to the oil and haven't had anymore problems but I am going to switch back to the blended oil next oil change.
Hope that helps.
 
i have to add a liter every 2 or 3 days. no leaks, but after my car sits all day it burns a bunch when i start it up. sticky valve maybe?
 
Check you compression. I have had this problem for a while and it looks like I just lost all compression on cylinder 3 this morning...I still have to talk to the guys at the shop for info.

If it is burning, it will likely only get worse. Also, I doubt that it is leaking out at that rate as it would probably be pretty obvious to you that oil was leaking due to the look of the surrounding area.

With that much burning you will probably have little specks of black on the hatch (obvious on light-colored cars).
 
Mr.Ames said:
i have to add a liter every 2 or 3 days. no leaks, but after my car sits all day it burns a bunch when i start it up. sticky valve maybe?


Your problem is identical to what mine was...after 5-6 days (300 miles) I would be down 2+ quarts. After i see the mechanic today I'll post what the problem was.
 
Action Jackson said:
Mine was 200'ish all the way (I'll assume the wet test).

well apparently i'm within spec, according to this thread so i dunno what to do... i ran seafoam thru the intake and gastank a while ago. i'm gonna put some in with the oil tomorrow, being as i have to change the oil anyway. see if that helps at all
 
I thought I had a burning oil problem too. I did not.

The problem was that I go over 120kph on the highway in which the F/A mixture becomes full rich from what I've read.

Going slower actually took care of my problem.....

It's just not as fun......:(
 
I also have to refill at least 2x between regular oil change intervals. I have no idea where it goes. No drips and no smoke.

I just switched from a 5w30 synthetic to the castrol GTX high mileage 10w30. I'll see if that sticks around any longer.

I'll also have to do a compression test.
 
jonlong said:
Hey guys, I have a problem with oil loss and I can't find a good explanation. I change my oil and filter every 3k-4k miles. I always add the quantity specified in the owner's manual. After about 1500-2000 miles of driving, though, I need to add a lot of oil. Last time I checked it, the dipstick was dry and it took about 2.5 quarts to get it back to the proper level. My exhuast doesn't show signs of burning oil, and I can't find a leak anywhere. I found a piece of my valve cover gasket that was tearing off, and there appears to be some oil residue around that area (near the oil fill cap, but not due to spilled oil). I ordered a new gasket, but I don't think that it will change anything. Could I be losing that much oil through a small leak in that gasket?

Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot!

Main function of the valve cover is to protect the various valve train components from the elements that may cause damage on them. And as if this is a function too small, it was gifted with another functionand that is to serve as a pool for lubricant oil as it drips back to the bottom of the engine block of your Mazda. After being pumped at the top of the engine, the lubricant oil pools inside the valve cover before draining back inside the engine through the cylinder heads drain back holes.

Damages in the valve covers would not only affect the valve train components of the engine. Essentially, all engine components such as the valve cover gasket and other parts that make use of lubricant oil will be affected. The most common effect of Mazda valve cover gasket damage is oil leaks and if these leaks are kept unchecked, it may result to excessive oil loss, which in turn would cause engine parts malfunction.
 
i burnt 2.5L of oil driving from grande prairie to calgary (about 750km) so i think its time to take it to the shop before my warranty runs out
 
i havent ripped apart the motor yet... maybe in the spring, but im starting to think its piston rings AND valve seals. we'll see
 
I remember when the P5s on this forum were all new. A few of the guys thought they were taking super good care by changing the oil before the first change was due. My opinion, which I posted, was that a new engine needs to run the oil full term in order for parts to break in and seat properly, especially the rings, and that early changing would cause early oil burning. They need that initial metal slurry to help everything polish and fit. I believe this has been proven to be fact by engine builders. Hopefully this isn't the problem in any of your cars, but I'd be curious to know how those guys' cars are doing now.
 
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