Break in?
- Thread starter baluuMS3
- Start date
mrlilguy157
Member
- :
- 07 mazdaspeed 3
do mods whenever you want. I drove the car 1200 miles in the first weekend, all highway.
Young Roids
Member
- :
- The pennies have been saved the MS3 is mine!
Moto man break in seems to be the best way. Wich is to drive it hard with varying rpms. I would stay away from highway driving with a constant rpm at first. Try to do alot of WOT accelleration and engine braking at first.
Here's what various experts have to say on it. Note that you might have to adjust those RPMs a bit, as some are for motors with higher redlines.
METHOD 1: Endyn Way
0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.
After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.
METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way
1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.
Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.
Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.
2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.
METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way
1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.
4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.
8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.
(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.
11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".
METHOD 1: Endyn Way
0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.
After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.
METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way
1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.
Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.
Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.
2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.
METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way
1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.
3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.
4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.
8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.
(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.
11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
whatever you do: make SURE the car warms up to temp properly before you beat on it.
1. start it up...wait 10-20sec for the oil pump to get the oil flowing all over.
2. drive conservatively until the engine comes up to operating temp.
3. go crazy...
keep in mind, that letting the engine idle for long periods of time to bring it up to temp from cold isn't really a good idea, because it's causing condensation and whatnot. also, you're warming up the engine, but leaving the transmission cold. therefore, the best way to warm up a car is to drive it carefully! =d
1. start it up...wait 10-20sec for the oil pump to get the oil flowing all over.
2. drive conservatively until the engine comes up to operating temp.
3. go crazy...
keep in mind, that letting the engine idle for long periods of time to bring it up to temp from cold isn't really a good idea, because it's causing condensation and whatnot. also, you're warming up the engine, but leaving the transmission cold. therefore, the best way to warm up a car is to drive it carefully! =d
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
honestly, the insane oil change schedules should not be necessary with modern cars these days. drive it like you would normally drive it, but make sure the engine/transmission temp come up to operational range, and you should be more than ok...
Young Roids
Member
- :
- The pennies have been saved the MS3 is mine!
those procedures are not MS3 specific just general breakin I believe.
bykeryder4life
Member
just drive the car as you plan on driving it everyday, but dont hold any rpm's for long periods of time(shift!) and dont keep it up high in the rpms for long(shift!). short bursts of throttle up to 5k or 5700 and some cruising will break it in just fine. wait 600 to 1k miles before oil change and driving the s*** out of it just to be safe. all the seals and stuff should be worn in nicely. you shouldnt worry too much with how new cars are built its all just "to be on the safe side"
absolutamente
Member
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed3
I grabbed the keys from the salesman, got in, looked at the seven miles on the odometer, pulled out of the parking lot and layed a strip of rubber a block and a half long. The rest is history...
The second step of my break in was to beat the s*** out of the thing every day after that. The loud clunk that I heard between 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts went away after like the 4th or 5th time.
Now with 19,000 on the clock the car squeaks and rattles like crazy, my drivers seat is worn out, all the rubber on my pedals is gone and the shift knob is falling off.
Still gets up and goes though.
The second step of my break in was to beat the s*** out of the thing every day after that. The loud clunk that I heard between 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts went away after like the 4th or 5th time.
Now with 19,000 on the clock the car squeaks and rattles like crazy, my drivers seat is worn out, all the rubber on my pedals is gone and the shift knob is falling off.
Still gets up and goes though.
+1 AMEN!!!
this is the wrong place to ask this question, but you're new so I'll forgive you... Does the volume change as you change speed? The faster you go the louder it gets? Kind of like the movie "Speed" lol
If thats the case then ALC (automatic level control) is on. There are 3 different levels, the higher the level the more dramatic the effect. To check it, push the know on the right hand side of the stereo and it's the first adjustment that pops up
hope that helps, if not, take it to the dealer, thats what they are there for
