Brake Job at Mr. Tire (Maryland)?

[Mntnbkr]

The 5 was in for an oil change and rotation this morning at good old Mr. Tire...cheap, cheerful, and convenient for the wife.
With 52,000 on the odometer, and minimal pad left, they are saying it's time for new pads and rotors. I was initially planning to take it to my garage, but since my garage would need the car for at least a half day if not more, I'm seriously considering Mr. Tire who would be faster (less than 2 hrs) and most likely cheaper. I haven't seen the quote yet (wife still has it and the car) but it is somewhere around $500 for both axles - pads (ceramic) and rotors (is it always necessary to change the rotor???? - not on my last VW brake job since I had gotten them done before pad/rotor contact), and brake system flush.
My questions are: any firsthand experience out there with a Mr. Tire brake job (for the 5 or other), do the rotors have to be replaced, are ceramic pads best, and is a brake system flush wise or a waste of money?
Thanks in advance for answers and feedback.

 

[kyoshiro]

Rotors do not have to be replaced if they still got enough thickness. Ceramic pads should be what we're using in the Mazda 5. I found out via using a wheel cleaner which eats up iron deposit, the chemical reaction happened on my mercedes but not on my mazda 5. European cars has more iron in their brake pads thus also why theres more dirty rims on em. I believe Ceramic pads were not as good as the iron based one at one point but now they should be good enough.
Brake fluid flush is prob only required if the brake fluid is worn out (the boiling temperature decreases as they get used), probably not very significant for the normal non-tracking cars.
Getting all that done is a peace of mind but I highly doubt you need every single one of them. Just my 2 cents, I'm only applying what I know.

 

[Silentnoise713]

any firsthand experience out there with a Mr. Tire brake job (for the 5 or other),

Never heard of them, though it is a good name.

do the rotors have to be replaced,

Rotors are wear and tear items but whether they need to be replaced depend on how hard you brake. 50K highway is not the same as 50K stop and go on rotors; and this still does not indicate if you are a smooth driver or a jackrabbit. You should replace rotors if 1) it is under a minimum thickness, which leads to poor braking performance and 2) if it is warped or have deep groves, which lead to steering wheel pulsing, nonlinear dive when braking, and annoyance of squeaks.

are ceramic pads best,

Yes but you pay the price

and is a brake system flush wise or a waste of money?

This should be done based on mileage and length of time. Brake fluid brake down overtime through heat cycles and it is hydroscopic. Looks like you have a 2006 with 52K so I say replace it.

That said, you prob don’t NEED to replace rotors or fluid flush, but it would be nice to keep the car in top shape. Think of it this way, you will have to do these services sooner or later and if you plan on keeping the car up to ~100K and beyond, why not just do it now? If you plan on selling/trading it within the next 15K, hold off.

 

[flcruising]

How mechanically inclined are you? Have you ever done a brake job before? Probably not since you are considering allowing someone else to do it for you. I just ran the numbers for new ceramic pads and 4 rotors and came to $263.41. So $500 sounds about right for another to perform the labor.

If you can change a tire, you can do a brake job on a 4-wheel rotor vehicle if you're capable.

 

[AO928]

I would get you brake fluid changed. As others have said, the fluid is hydroscopic - means it attracts moisture. Accumulated maoisture reduces the boiling point and this can lead to your brakes "going out" if they get over-heated.

A fluid change is a relatively simple process, but be careful. Many times, chain shops will suggest you do it, and they will bill you and not actually change the fluid. It's hard to know if they did it without direct observation. You need to watch them and make sure they perform the service you pay for.

 

[Silentnoise713]

I would get you brake fluid changed. As others have said, the fluid is hydroscopic - means it attracts moisture. Accumulated maoisture reduces the boiling point and this can lead to your brakes "going out" if they get over-heated.

A fluid change is a relatively simple process, but be careful. Many times, chain shops will suggest you do it, and they will bill you and not actually change the fluid. It's hard to know if they did it without direct observation. You need to watch them and make sure they perform the service you pay for.

That sucks. I've heard of stuff like this but always thought it was an urban legend.

To add one point, you also have the make sure the shop bleed in the new fluid properly (farthest to closes to master cylinder) and not just a drain and fill. I don't recommend you changing brake fluid unless you know the process and have someone who know a bit to guide/help you. The bleeding process is very important and you will need a second pair of hands (or legs) else you’d need speed bleeder valves. Bottom line, find a reputable shop.

 

[dfskinner]

Mntnbkr we have the same car; save your money, you buy the pads and I'll help you change them for dinner and gas money DC to Annapolis and back to DC. I work in DC Mon-Thur usually from 6-7am until 5-6pm everyday, but I'll work with you to get up to where you live, I have the tools and will bring them with me; send me a email or pm and we can work something out. 113,000 miles on my car and I just changed the Front Brake pads, my rotor's are fine. I purchased new ceramic pads at Advanced Auto for $47.00.......

Took less than an hour to change the front pads...... I'll bet you anything your rotors are fine, at least get a seond opinion if you don't take me up on my offer. Only 52,000 miles? I hate it when a shop recommends work only to find out you've been taken advantage of....... If you wore the pads down to metal then I say you may need to repalce the rotors otherwise you're getting ripped off. I'm sending you a PM with my phone number and email address. I hate to see someone get taken advantage of......... and don't change your brake fluid; Brake Fluid doesn't break down unless your racing your car; only time your brakes would boil would be when your towing or carring a heavy load which I don't think you're doing either with the "5".

 

[Mntnbkr]

Brakes/Pads and good service plug

Mntnbkr we have the same car; save your money, you buy the pads and I'll help you change them for dinner and gas money DC to Annapolis and back to DC. I work in DC Mon-Thur usually from 6-7am until 5-6pm everyday, but I'll work with you to get up to where you live, I have the tools and will bring them with me; send me a email or pm and we can work something out. 113,000 miles on my car and I just changed the Front Brake pads, my rotor's are fine. I purchased new ceramic pads at Advanced Auto for $47.00.......

Took less than an hour to change the front pads...... I'll bet you anything your rotors are fine, at least get a seond opinion if you don't take me up on my offer. Only 52,000 miles? I hate it when a shop recommends work only to find out you've been taken advantage of....... If you wore the pads down to metal then I say you may need to repalce the rotors otherwise you're getting ripped off. I'm sending you a PM with my phone number and email address. I hate to see someone get taken advantage of......... and don't change your brake fluid; Brake Fluid doesn't break down unless your racing your car; only time your brakes would boil would be when your towing or carring a heavy load which I don't think you're doing either with the "5".

dfskinner- thanks for the nice offer - it's appreciated. Given that it is my wife's ride and her schedule is ? and I don't have a great place to work on the car out of the friggin cold weather and the below info, I'm going to pass, but again, THANKS!!!

I finally tracked down my old mechanic who had changed Mr. Tire locations - he took a look at the car today and said back pads are fine - front pads need replacing and rotors can be ground if needed. I verified this with Montgomery Mazda (where Jason works (GOOD GUY))-Jason was off but coworker Daryl said front pads typically get replaced at a 2:1 ratio to the backs, and yes the rotors can be machined up to twice as long as within thickness specs. Finally, ...honest people. They will get my business. For anyone local (Annapolis area), my Mr. Tire guy is Adam - currently in Glen Burnie, apparently moving back to Severna Park next week. Nice guy, does good work, has fixed other's errors for me before, recommended.

Cheers.

 

[DKaz]

Mntnbkr, drive to dfskinner's place! Brake jobs don't take more than an hour, it could take more if anything is seized onto anything. Wheel on hub, maybe not so much, but be prepared to have a rubber mallet to get the brake rotors off if that needs replacing.

 

[wmzda5]

You might not even need to machine the rotors, bed them first before deciding to machine or replace. There should be step by step how to for bedding the brakes.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

If you decide to machine, you might consider replacing altogether, I'm not sure how much to machine each rotor but it might be cheaper buying new ones. I bought mine (4 cross drilled rotors + semi metallic pads) for less than 200 CAD. Real easy to do, just make sure you got a 7mm allen key to take out the caliper pins.

One other point that others are having difficulties, putting in the retainer spring wire. I suggest using an ice pick or anything that is pointed, a small + screwdriver will do. Hook the wire with the screwdriver and anchor the tip to the hole where you need to hook the spring to, just yank it slowly to guide the spring to the hole.

When you're doing this be sure to grease the caliper pins. also a good time to paint that calipers while your'e at it.

Hope this helps

 

[twintrbo]

Considering your 5 has 52K miles and about 5 years on the road it needs new brake fluid. It is hygroscopic and there is no doubt it is contaminated at this point. Keep in mind the moisture gets in through the brake lines and connections, and it also enters whenever you take off the reservoir cap to check fluid levels. Will it go another 5 years? sure. Is your life in danger otherwise? No. Can you get away with not doing it? Yup. But to really maintain your brakes properly it should be replaced. If you have any doubts, have someone press the brake pedal while you loosen the bleed screw on the caliper. When the black, dirty fluid comes out that is supposed to be clear, you tell me you don't want it changed! You will most likely notice a slightly firmer pedal and thats about it, but its worth it to know the system is at 100%.

 

[thaxman]

One thing to remember is this: In the automotive world, wintertime is famine. NOTHING happens in the winter, while they can't keep their doors open long enough in the summer. Add to this the fact that most chains have owners/franchisees who hire store managers based on sales performance and you have a recipe for draining your wallet of Christmas money. Since it was your wife that went in for the oil change/roto, they saw a chance to up sales with some OTT work. Used to be that they could take advantage of women and wouldn't even try w/men, but the world is changing. While almost every man over 40 knows about cars, guys in their 20s typically can look at a monitor and diagnose everything wrong w/a PC, but often are clueless about what goes on w/their cars. So now, if you are a man who appears to be younger, you must keep your guard up as well. That's what's so great abou these forums....we are our own best diagnostic. Participating here will help you know what's going on w/your car so you are better prepared when you go into the shop.

 

[dfskinner]

Mntnbkr no problem, just try and check stuff out for yourself first. I have access to the hobby shop on base at Bolling AFB; I'm guessing there may also be one in Annapolis; My offer stands for anyone in the DC/Va Beach area.... I'm in DC Mon-Thur evenings and Va Beach Fri-Sun......... Doesn't take that much time or space; I've changed them in the parking garage on other vehicles. My 5 has 115,000 miles on it, I've only changed the pads. No fluid or rotor changes; doesn't need it..... if you're so inclined to change the fluid on your brakes, I would take it to a place that can do it properly........ but I"m not changing mine. Not broke, don't fix it is my motto........ but again, my offer stands for anyone with a 5 in the two areas...... any other Mazda auto I'd have to check, saw a guy changing his pads on a 3 and it looked like you have to turn the cylinder inside the rotor to get it to go back in.......... don’t think I want to mess with those…….. but I’ll help anyone change the brakes on a “5”…….