Ive had my heart set on getting a dashhawk for a while now. After doing a little research ive found some boost guages for like under 40 bucks (mechanical). I think I would rather save a 200 bucks and get the cheap one instead of the dashhawk. Ive also seen some very expensive 100 dollar boost guages. Dont really see a difference other than they look nicer. Anyone have any trouble with the cheap mechanical boost guages? Thx for any help.
boost guage vs dashhawk
- Thread starter coyfish
- Start date
I LOVE my dashhawk, but it's very hard to read while driving. With a boost gauge, you can tell where the needle is out of the corner of your eye. That said, if I had to do it over again, I would have gotten the boost gauge FIRST!
Dashhawk still does a ton of good with counting knocks, staggered shifts, and warnings. HIGHLY recommend the dashhawk for safety/insurance
Dashhawk still does a ton of good with counting knocks, staggered shifts, and warnings. HIGHLY recommend the dashhawk for safety/insurance
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I'd say based on research and some brief time with a DH, it's the way to go if you go one OR the other. I'm gonna do a DH, and also set up the 3-pod with EGT, oil pressure, and a boost gauge, then monitor other stuff with the DH. It's basically an insurance/reliability, and the datalogging is a great feature as well.
Thx for the comments. Yeah dashhawk has a ton of cool features. I think im going to buy the cheapy boost gauge for now and save for the dashhawk. Definately like the datalogging / engine knock feature and in the long run you will save money buying the all in one dashhawk. Some of the nice boost gauges I have seen people with cost like over 80 bucks.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
Yeah, if you go the gauge route, it sounds like you get what you pay for. Defis' are expensive, but I've never heard anyone have a problem with any of their gauges. Prosports are another story though...
Just curious but where but if I get a boost guage ill probably stick it next to the tach so its easy to see. Where do you guys run the vacuum line? Does it have to go basically down the left side of the steering wheel and into the engine bay that way? Im sure the answer is somewhere in these forums but i havent seen it yet.
At least with mine, the vac went from a T in the vacuum line to the bpv to a sender box. Then wires, not vacuum hose as I had also though originally, goes through the firewall, then I ran it up through the weather stripping around the driver door up towards the gauge cluster.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
The cheaper gauges require you to run a vacuum line through the firewall, but the higher end gauges have the sender unit you mount remotely.
I wouldn't call them "cheaper" and/or "higher end" because I much prefer the reactions of a mechanical gauge to that of the electronic. Kind of like using a mechanical tire pressure gauge rather than one of those high-tech digital gauges. The mechanical gauges have a hard vacuum line to the manifold where the electronic gauges employ a sender mounted somewhere in the line and you still must run the wire to the gauge... The "best" functioning gauges are mechanical where the "coolest" gauges are electronic with multi-colored lights, etc.(doh)
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- 2011 Mustang GT
Thank you for clarifying, that was poor word choice on my part.
I would love one of those nice defi's but there are still plenty of mods I need before I can start splurging on cosmetic stuff 
. Just wanted to make sure I wouldnt have an ugly chord running across my console. Wish I could have stopped by at mazdapalooza to check out some guages. I drove Right past it following a nice black evo driven by a middle aged guy (bald). Had to work
. Just wanted to make sure I wouldnt have an ugly chord running across my console. Wish I could have stopped by at mazdapalooza to check out some guages. I drove Right past it following a nice black evo driven by a middle aged guy (bald). Had to work New Posts and Comments
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