Boing or pop or crunch or some kind of noise in front quarter panel

pocketpenguin

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Mazda 5 Sport auto
My "new" 5 has had a click or pop or boing or tick or something in the front quarter panel since I drove it off the lot.

At first it was only when making a left turn and hitting a pothole. Then on my driveway which has a couple inch bump up curb. Now, 20+ times on a three mile city trip. Basically, whenever you hit a seam or pothole it pops. The car now has 3100 miles on it.

The sound is a single click. It sounds like body flex creak like you'd get on a car with tons of miles, except only one click in the creak. If you can imagine a piece of metal bolted to some other piece, but not tightly enough to hold the one piece in place. Like a hole banging against its bolt. Metallic sounding, but not like a bell.

I took the car to the dealer for it's first oil change, and to have them look for the sound. They were able to hear it and we could reproduce it in the parking lot. But they couldn't find it. They did not take off the quarter panel but said they put a wrench on every nut and bolt in the engine compartment. No other Mazda 5 on the lot made the sound.

I can now reproduce it by backing up 10 feet, the moving forward 10 feet and putting on the brakes abruptly (no tire squealing). Basically it takes some sort of maneuver to "set up" the sound and another kind of maneuver to actually cause the sound. Twice I've been able to reproduce the sound by pushing down on the bumper/fender with the hood open. Each time it sounds like it's coming from under the fluid reservoir, but I can't get any closer than that.

It's driving me nuts. Can you tell? http://static.mazdas247.com/smilies/freak3.gif

Any ideas? Noisy spring? I felt up the spring and noticed it has some rubber covered places. Has there been an issue with noisy springs or suspension on the 5?
 
Ours was clunking like that, especially when I would drive over a speed bump with the left side and whilling missing it on the right side. A new set of front struts cured it.
 
The dealer claimed they tried to tighten the strut bolts, but they didn't need it. Also said they did all the bolts on the left side of the engine compartment.

Anyone know how much to torque the strut bolts?
 
The manual says 22.2-29.4 ft-lb for the upper, and 39.8-54.2 ft-lb for the lower.
 
Had the same problem on my 2007 right after I bought it. Took it to the dealer and they said it needed sway bar end links and center bushings. I bought the parts and took it to my local shop and they changed them out for $100. The noise is gone.
 
Two comments:

1. Pocketpenguin...check out the TSBs for the suspension 'fixes' for the 5 for the sqeeking bushings...part of that TSB discusses a metal burr or excessive weld possibly present on the rear springs - if present on your spring it could contact or rub against other rear suspension components. If it did I would imagine it could make noises like you mention... The dealer fix is to grind the extra metal off.

2. flcruising...I get the bushing sqeak when the weather gets cold (can't wait for the upcoming cold weather for that wonderful sound), but did not have the stealership do the "fix" as I had ZERO confidence that it would fix the problem and did not want the dealership messing around with the car more than necessary.
That said, what did you lube the sway bar bushings with? I heard that silicone spray is the right thing, but want to double check that, and see a spray will actually get into the bushing/bar joint.
 
No thanks. Let us know if it makes a difference though.
Any idea if saturating with a spray (silicone or?) would help at all or for a while?
 
I don't see how, the bushings are clamped against the sway bars pretty tightly. You could spray it all you want to, but I don't think it will penetrate well enough. If it does work, a spray lubricant is defintely a temporary fix. If I have to do it again, I'll either tap the clamp and install zerk fittings or just replace them with greasable bushings. Dirt and sand was eroding some grooves in mine, so grease will help to keep clean longer too.
 
"1. Pocketpenguin...check out the TSBs for the suspension 'fixes' for the 5 for the sqeeking bushings...part of that TSB discusses a metal burr or excessive weld possibly present on the rear springs - if present on your spring it could contact or rub against other rear suspension components. If it did I would imagine it could make noises like you mention... The dealer fix is to grind the extra metal off. Older models that don't apply here.

2. flcruising...I get the bushing sqeak when the weather gets cold (can't wait for the upcoming cold weather for that wonderful sound), but did not have the stealership do the "fix" as I had ZERO confidence that it would fix the problem and did not want the dealership messing around with the car more than necessary.
That said, what did you lube the sway bar bushings with? I heard that silicone spray is the right thing, but want to double check that, and see a spray will actually get into the bushing/bar joint." The bushings won't be knocking unless a bolt is visibly not tightened down.

OP, make sure it's not your plastic cowling hitting the windshield before you waste any more time on the issue.
 
It's kind of amusing how we try to guess what the cause of a sound is on someone's vehicle like this...

How about the strut bolt? The one in the center of the mount, not the 3 that bolt the mount to the car. You said under the fluid reservoir. Is that the brake fluid reservoir?
 
I've spent some time trying to localize the sound.

It is absolutely coming from in front of the passenger front seat. Either inside the engine compartment or very near the firewall. The two times I've heard it while pressing on the front passenger fender it sounded as if it came from under or near the coolant bottle and maybe a little more toward the strut.

Sorry for those that suggested rear suspension, definitely not coming from the back. :) A friend had an '06 with very squeaky suspension, that's not it. It's not a squeak or a creak, more of a pop or click.

I've had my wife knock on the fender, and headlight. Not it.

Hopefully, I'll get it to the dealer again Thursday or Friday. The car is 3 months old so the dealer is still interested in finding the cause. Coincidentally I got two big surveys in the mail today from Mazda. I think I'll wait to fill them out ;)

Oh, and the dealer said he removed the plastic cowling at the bottom of the windshield. That's what the Mazda "support" line suggested. That wasn't it either.
 
As long as it can be duplicated, they can track it down. Most shops have a "Chassis Ear" which is a set of microphones that they mount around the area of the noise. While driving (with an assistant of course), the mechanic can switch between mics to target/pinpoint the sound. Many dealers that have these are too lazy to use them, or find sending two people is too much work. They are a great tool for problems like yours, and save a lot of time in the end.
 
The sound can definitely be duplicated. Twenty times on the 3 mile trip to work.

Got my 5 back from the dealer today. They said they used a microphone and think clunk/pop is something in the upper strut support. Parts are on order.
 
The sound can definitely be duplicated. Twenty times on the 3 mile trip to work.

Got my 5 back from the dealer today. They said they used a microphone and think clunk/pop is something in the upper strut support. Parts are on order.

WOW, a good Mazda dealer? Please do tell who it is for others' reference.
 
OK got the 5 back after the third trip back, and a replaced something in the strut support and the verdict is.....

It still has the pop/clunk.

The service rep said it's better, but not gone, and he's "not satisfied." Nor am I about the sound, but they are trying. That I am satisfied about.

Driving around tonight, I think it might be a little better, but not much. Perhaps the ambient temp has something to do with it.

In any case, the dealer is calling Mazda corporate and going to try to get and engineer to come in to troubleshoot on site. The thinking now is a cracked weld.
 
OK got the 5 back after the third trip back, and a replaced something in the strut support and the verdict is.....

It still has the pop/clunk.

The service rep said it's better, but not gone, and he's "not satisfied." Nor am I about the sound, but they are trying. That I am satisfied about.

Driving around tonight, I think it might be a little better, but not much. Perhaps the ambient temp has something to do with it.

In any case, the dealer is calling Mazda corporate and going to try to get and engineer to come in to troubleshoot on site. The thinking now is a cracked weld.

Can you say WHOOPS? Sounds to me like a pretty serious QC problem. Be sure and let us know what happens. At least your dealer is responsible enough to help you.
 
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