Best oil and filter?
- Thread starter Prodigy5
- Start date
Most P5s are high mileage now - so really the 'difference' you could affect is minimal...
Use the 626 size filter and maybe shortent he change interval to reflect the higher mileage/increased tolerances and increased blow-by breaking the oil down...
I used good ol' FRAM (flame shield [up]) and the car went a 1/4 million miles and the top of the engine still looked clean. really. clean.
So save the $ from high dollar filters and maybe change more often, eh?
Best Bang:Buck ratio
Use the 626 size filter and maybe shortent he change interval to reflect the higher mileage/increased tolerances and increased blow-by breaking the oil down...
I used good ol' FRAM (flame shield [up]) and the car went a 1/4 million miles and the top of the engine still looked clean. really. clean.
So save the $ from high dollar filters and maybe change more often, eh?
Best Bang:Buck ratiotweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
And don't use synthetic when it starts to burn it, switch to conventional as it won't burn it as fast
superchargedx
Member
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- 2002 Protege 5
Hey everyone,
My P5 (Canada) has 270,000km on it and does not burn a drop on Pennzoil Platinum, knock on wood
I have been using this oil with the OEM Mazda B6 filter for intervals of about 5000km (short for this great oil but I like to be a little on the safe side).
If you do a little research it gets great numbers from the used oil analysis on sites like BITOG.
Hope this helps,
Sean
My P5 (Canada) has 270,000km on it and does not burn a drop on Pennzoil Platinum, knock on wood
I have been using this oil with the OEM Mazda B6 filter for intervals of about 5000km (short for this great oil but I like to be a little on the safe side).
If you do a little research it gets great numbers from the used oil analysis on sites like BITOG.
Hope this helps,
Sean
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 2002
I have a bit over 200k and i put it on synth oil and now it burn it away about 1/2 qt a week, and gonna go back to conventional oil.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Purolator PureOne filters are rated very highly as far as filtration, but have a low price point. I've been using them (the 626 filter actually) in my P5 since I bought it and really like them. Just my $0.02.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Sounds like something a cheap bastard would do to see if the oil needs to be changed or if they can run it a bit further... Either way, no just use new oil and quit being cheap. Walmart sells 5qt jug of penzoil for $16 plus $6 for filter
And oil should never see temps of 500 degrees, unless you're using it to start a fire.
what i mean is use a bowl of fresh oil and test it out in oven,
i saw russian test oil in glass jar to see how they hold up against extreme temperature
most oil burns, some even turn into ash like
and some oil that held up really good only shown some browning with barely anything stick to the glass
i saw russian test oil in glass jar to see how they hold up against extreme temperature
most oil burns, some even turn into ash like
and some oil that held up really good only shown some browning with barely anything stick to the glass
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Doesn't matter as it will never see those temps in a car
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
Not really sure I would want oil on fire in my oven.
if youre going to pay all that money for an oil filter buy an AMSOIL filter the best of the best IMO.
Even if it was free I would get Mobil One extended performance filter before the K&n filter. i feel like you're just paying for the brand name if you buy the K&N.
Even if it was free I would get Mobil One extended performance filter before the K&n filter. i feel like you're just paying for the brand name if you buy the K&N.
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sleepwalker
Member
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- 2010 Mazda CX-7 i Sport
True, but exposing a material to a higher temperature than it is expected to see is a good, experimentally-sound way to speed the aging process in order to evaluate the material's performance.
I work for a company that does failure testing for electrical insulation materials. Only accredited one in the world. Basically anything designed to keep current flowing where it's supposed to, my lab tested it. And we're talking everything from the magnet wire in tiny electric motors to the components used to build generators in nuclear power plants. And we do a lot of work with things that are designed to be submerged in motor oil - which means long term thermal aging of everything, including the oil.
I guess what I'm saying is, while the oil will never actually see 500*F temps, (and I'm about to throw a couple numbers out of my ass for example's sake), 3 days in the oven at 500*F would be a pretty good indicator of how it would look (and perform) after 30 days at 250*F.
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^I don't think I buy sleepwalker's argument,.. at least not 100%. I'm pretty sure you could put an ordinary text book in an oven at 250* and it would probably last a decade but it would burst into flames at 500*.
Testing an oil at a temperature 2 or 3 times higher than it will ever see may not yield any useful results. We need to know how an oil performs in a real world environment with dust, dirt, humidity, extreme pressure as well as high heat.
Just because an oil breaks down or burns at unrealistic temperatures doesn't mean it doesn't perform its duties well in a normal or even extreme environment.
There may even be some unwanted side effects of an oil that simply doesn't burn. (perhaps it's the additives like detergent or seal softeners in high mileage oil that burn more readily and would have to be eliminated to create a heatproof oil ???)
Engine oil is supposed to be replaced at least twice a year regardless of mileage so there is no need to extrapolate past six months service.
Testing an oil at a temperature 2 or 3 times higher than it will ever see may not yield any useful results. We need to know how an oil performs in a real world environment with dust, dirt, humidity, extreme pressure as well as high heat.
Just because an oil breaks down or burns at unrealistic temperatures doesn't mean it doesn't perform its duties well in a normal or even extreme environment.
There may even be some unwanted side effects of an oil that simply doesn't burn. (perhaps it's the additives like detergent or seal softeners in high mileage oil that burn more readily and would have to be eliminated to create a heatproof oil ???)
Engine oil is supposed to be replaced at least twice a year regardless of mileage so there is no need to extrapolate past six months service.
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russian test oil in semi sealed big lab glass jar over open flame to see how they do.
what you really wanna see is the additive/s in the oil survive under high temperature, or burns into ashes.
its like setting the deep fryer 480degree
put some bread crumb into deep fryer, they burn, turn oil dark browning within a hour
but without bread crumbs, the oil last days and days under 480F with just lil browning
what you really wanna see is the additive/s in the oil survive under high temperature, or burns into ashes.
its like setting the deep fryer 480degree
put some bread crumb into deep fryer, they burn, turn oil dark browning within a hour
but without bread crumbs, the oil last days and days under 480F with just lil browning
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU6AhiUbjh4
if you look at this everpower oil test, the oil is so pure it leave nothing behind even under direct flame
traditional oil burns leave ash behind, just like when you open ur vlave cover u might find few ash spot within.
(u cant really tell if somewhere with in ur engine are cooled/lubed with oil constantly, it would reach peak temperature sometime)
its just one sample i can find, russian did almost all oils in russian market, i just forgot the site address. but most of the oil ant sold in NA market so the test doesnt benefit us.
if you look at this everpower oil test, the oil is so pure it leave nothing behind even under direct flame
traditional oil burns leave ash behind, just like when you open ur vlave cover u might find few ash spot within.
(u cant really tell if somewhere with in ur engine are cooled/lubed with oil constantly, it would reach peak temperature sometime)
its just one sample i can find, russian did almost all oils in russian market, i just forgot the site address. but most of the oil ant sold in NA market so the test doesnt benefit us.
