Best MSP sub upgrade?

No experience with them, but remember, There are no authorized JL Audio online dealers so you won't have a valid warranty with your sub unless they are somehow a brick and mortar and JL doesn't know they are selling online.
 
Yes, well I didn't have much of a choice. The closest "authorized" dealer is hours away (I am truly in B.F.E.). And how they get away with selling JL online is beyond me. They openly advertise JL on their homepage. Besides, I have heard nothing but rave reviews on JL's reliability, and I won't be coming close to over-driving the sub, so I'm not too worried about it. I just wish they would ship the ******!
 
Has anyone thought of maybe getting a different amp. A 4 way and power the speakers in the front and have one powering a sub in the back? Then adding some rear speakers in the deck lid?
 
jrodhotrod said:
FYI... If you stick with the stock enclosure, you will not be able to install speakers in the rear deck. There isn't enough space for the speaker magnet behind the stock sub enclosure, that's why they are in the rear doors.

Just an FYI.
I haven't yet dissected the enclosure, but I'll try to find a way for both to live happily. I have a feeling it will need to be braced anyway, especially with a long-throw woofer and way more than enough power to send the sub to its physical limits.

FWIW, as long as you can hear distortion (and many don't seem to be able to), you'll most likely never blow a speaker with too much power. You'll blow it when you don't give it enough and then ask too much out of it, i.e. our factory setup. When you cram too large a signal through an incapable amplifier, the clipped signal overheats the voice coil, and then you toast it. My rule of thumb has always been that if it sounds better and better, and then beyond that the quality of the note seems to change or take on any type of harshness... back off a click or two and you're safe.
 
Has anyone noticed that the stock sub is 8 ohms? Now the amp runs at 120x1 when run in the bridged at 4 ohms. When you're running 8 ohms your not getting the 120 watts worth of power, and also take into account that the 120x1 is rated at 14.4 volts so you wouldn't even get that. I pulled apart the enclosure today to take a look at it and that's when I noticed it. So when you replace the stock sub that runs at 4 ohms you're going to get more punch out of it because it's drawing more juice from the amp.
 
AJsMSP said:
Has anyone noticed that the stock sub is 8 ohms? Now the amp runs at 120x1 when run in the bridged at 4 ohms. When you're running 8 ohms your not getting the 120 watts worth of power, and also take into account that the 120x1 is rated at 14.4 volts so you wouldn't even get that. I pulled apart the enclosure today to take a look at it and that's when I noticed it. So when you replace the stock sub that runs at 4 ohms you're going to get more punch out of it because it's drawing more juice from the amp.
Mazda and Kenwood had it right. When an amplifier is bridged, the combined mono channel "sees" 1/2 of whatever the impedance it's being presented with. In our case, the amp sees a 4 ohm load with the 8 ohm sub hooked to it...which is a safe load and won't get the amp running too hot. As for the 14.4v rating, we should get about that with the engine running. I personally don't care for amplifier manufacturers using the 14.4v rating. I prefer amps that are underrated and are spec'd for 12 volts. For instance, my Autotek 99 sub amp- It's rated at 99 watts, but is capable of 10 times that, even in stock form. Mine in particular was souped up from the factory for the guy I bought it from. He was sponsored by Autotek and Savard back in the day. In his truck, I saw this amplifier pull 105 amps of current according to an inductive meter. 105 amps x a running voltage of, say, 13.8 volts = 1,449 watts. It's a beast, and it's only limited by your ability to feed it enough current and keep it cool. This amp drove 8 12" Savard subs and produced 163 db. The one time I attempted to sit in the cab of his truck for 5 seconds I jumped out and threw up all over our installation bay!

Of course, our amp should be capable of 2 ohm stereo/4 ohm mono loads. I don't know. Like I said, I'm just beginning to start work with the stereo in my MSP and haven't dug into it fully yet. The whole project just accelerated when the original head unit got thugged this weekend.
Right now it's getting the window replaced. First things first.
 
MrDiggler said:
Mazda and Kenwood had it right. When an amplifier is bridged, the combined mono channel "sees" 1/2 of whatever the impedance it's being presented with. In our case, the amp sees a 4 ohm load with the 8 ohm sub hooked to it...which is a safe load and won't get the amp running too hot. As for the 14.4v rating, we should get about that with the engine running. I personally don't care for amplifier manufacturers using the 14.4v rating. I prefer amps that are underrated and are spec'd for 12 volts. For instance, my Autotek 99 sub amp- It's rated at 99 watts, but is capable of 10 times that, even in stock form. Mine in particular was souped up from the factory for the guy I bought it from. He was sponsored by Autotek and Savard back in the day. In his truck, I saw this amplifier pull 105 amps of current according to an inductive meter. 105 amps x a running voltage of, say, 13.8 volts = 1,449 watts. It's a beast, and it's only limited by your ability to feed it enough current and keep it cool. This amp drove 8 12" Savard subs and produced 163 db. The one time I attempted to sit in the cab of his truck for 5 seconds I jumped out and threw up all over our installation bay!

Of course, our amp should be capable of 2 ohm stereo/4 ohm mono loads. I don't know. Like I said, I'm just beginning to start work with the stereo in my MSP and haven't dug into it fully yet. The whole project just accelerated when the original head unit got thugged this weekend.
Right now it's getting the window replaced. First things first.
I have never heard of that, bridged mono 1/2's the impedance of the load it's seeing. Our amp is rated at 40x2 at 4 ohm stereo, 60x2 2 ohm stereo and 120x2 bridged 4 ohm. NOTE:
Some people say that when an amplifier is bridged onto a 4 ohm load, it 'sees' a 2 ohm load. While it is true that the same current flows whether the amp is bridged on a 4 ohm load or a 2 ohm stereo load, the amplifier is driving a 4 ohm load across its outputs. A single 4 ohm speaker can never be a 2 ohm load. Note taken from www.bcae1.com.
 

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