BA, JL, or Focal for the $$$

[parks853]

uuuhhh DLS (huh)

I take it they are talking about DLS audio. never personally listened to them. and don tkonw anything about them. but here is the link to there site http://www.dls.se/ there is a post here in the audio section that says something like my system so kicks. someone posted a link to a sounddomain page with a blue golf. the guy installed some DLS stuff if you want to see. awesome install to.

 

[parks853]

ok.. here is the sounddomain page if you want to see the DLS speakers and the impressive install. http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/189943 I hope that is the right one

 

[shinzen]

Ok, so heres my take on it. The Kappa's to my ears sound better than the perfects- accuracy and tightness being my judge. On the diff btwn the jl and the focals, you really need to listen to them. No on here can say that one will way outperform the other in the long term for reliability- Unlike some here I like the sound of the bostons, but I also listen to mostly electronic music- that't why I have the M&K's for my home speakers. I have listened to all kinds of speakers, and unless you like them, don't buy them- I like my speakers way better than most electrostats I have listened to- mostly because the highs aren't as harsh- but that's not to say that for some people they don't have value.

 

[servoeyes]

The CDTs I have, from what I can tell, are a lot like the Bostons, but I haven't had a chance to hear them side by side in a car. Basically, CDTs (especially the mid-higher end) have stronger highs and strong but natural mids. They still sound very bright but with very little sibilance. The mids are very strong...I've liked them so far. When I properly install them, though, I think I'll realize their true quality.

 

[parks853]

The CDTs I have, from what I can tell, are a lot like the Bostons, but I haven't had a chance to hear them side by side in a car. Basically, CDTs (especially the mid-higher end) have stronger highs and strong but natural mids. They still sound very bright but with very little sibilance. The mids are very strong...I've liked them so far. When I properly install them, though, I think I'll realize their true quality.

I have never personally heard the CDT's. I heard they sound really nice. I will listen to them if I ever get the chance.

 

[FoxPro5]

First of all congrats to servo for his new master status (you were always my master big boy (wink) ) No seriously though, we would all agree that you have been a major help to us....and so for that (cheers2)

Second, I have narrowed down my original search to the Quarts or the JL's. Now my question is which tweeter would work better in the stock location. It seems that the Quart tweeter (PCE 216) would require some serious modification...like it would be too big for the slot and I would have to cut up the sail panel to make it fit.

The JL tweeter (xr650) looks like it would be more plug and play?? Or would require just a minor rig job.


Third, If you could get either of these at the same price which one would you go with? I know, I know it depends on a lot of stuff but lets say from an ease of installation stand point which one would you invest in....

Anyone have any experiences they would like to share here????

 

[parks853]

I woudl get teh JL's. I also think the tweet in the JL will swivel if I member right. not sure what size either tweet is but I bet they are both to big for the factory baby hole. you could just surface mount the tweet in teh sail panel. and if the jL swivels like I think it does then you can point them different directions. my buddy had some XR's and they sounded good off axis with the tweet up there.

 

[servoeyes]

First of all congrats to servo for his new master status (you were always my master big boy (wink) ) No seriously though, we would all agree that you have been a major help to us....and so for that (cheers2)

Second, I have narrowed down my original search to the Quarts or the JL's. Now my question is which tweeter would work better in the stock location. It seems that the Quart tweeter (PCE 216) would require some serious modification...like it would be too big for the slot and I would have to cut up the sail panel to make it fit.

The JL tweeter (xr650) looks like it would be more plug and play?? Or would require just a minor rig job.


Third, If you could get either of these at the same price which one would you go with? I know, I know it depends on a lot of stuff but lets say from an ease of installation stand point which one would you invest in....

Anyone have any experiences they would like to share here????

1.) THank you!
2.) The XR's tweeter won't fit in the sail panel without some work...but the VR's will...and it's a silk tweeter so it sounds smoother up high.
3.) If you get the XRs or quarts, you can drill a hole of the right size into the sail panel and mount the tweeter there. Just make sure you mount it flush and give it something to prevent the inevitable squeaking (like some thin rubber...or use a grommet to mount the tweeter in).
4.) I'd take the JL's over the MB's...but that's my personal preference...you'll have to pick which every your ears like more.

 

[parks853]

the whole thing get what you like is true. I guess I am kinda differetn then these guys cause I am bout the only one that likes the tweets up high. and alot of the guys like the silk tweets. I like my music clear and bright. and nothing better for that than a NICE metal tweet. and I say NICE because the cheap metal tweets are horrible.. but the JL tweet in the XR's sounds nice to me. it has a surround to keep it from being to harsh. sounds nice. and they have alot of settings.

 

[FoxPro5]

So what exactly do you mean by "settings" on the tweet? Do you mean better control over the "harshness" in the stock location? I looks like the Quarts have similar adjustability to me and the retail on them is like $150 more which tell me it's a "better" buy if I can get either for around $250 (ohhh the beauity of ebay (laugh)

 

[parks853]

I will clarify that.. sorry. what i mean by settings is that there are like 15 different settings on the crossover. you can use the jumpers to make a different sound for the components. there are 5 settings for the mids and 3 settings for the tweets. I think that is right. I have not looked at them for awhile.

the MB stuff is not excatly a better buy. there stuff just seems to have a bigger mark up. like when I got my focals they were like half retail. it is hard to get ahold of JL stuff. they try to keep there stuff off the net. they will even buy their stuff back. MB and some of the other companies I dont think try as hard to keep there stuff off the net.

 

[servoeyes]

Yeah...if you haven't listened to them, then it's gonna be hard to judge which is a better buy. But either way...check woofersetc.com for something less sketchy than ebay. They say that they will carry the warranty on products they sell, and their prices are very good.

 

[sndsgood]

if you are going to mount the tweets up high wich i don't recomend, its really a toss up. ive ran quarts for 8 years now so i know the ins and outs of them. both will sound good when installed properly. although the mbquart may be slightly bigger, it can also be mounted more off axis. meaning u can just cut the hole and almost mount them straight on where as the jl will require more aiming back towars the listener, wich may be more difficult of an install. does your headunit have any sort of time delay? because thats the only way youlle get a good left and right ballance from mounting your tweets in the sail panels. without time delay your going to be heavily biased to the left side.

 

[FoxPro5]

if you are going to mount the tweets up high wich i don't recomend, its really a toss up. ive ran quarts for 8 years now so i know the ins and outs of them. both will sound good when installed properly. although the mbquart may be slightly bigger, it can also be mounted more off axis. meaning u can just cut the hole and almost mount them straight on where as the jl will require more aiming back towars the listener, wich may be more difficult of an install. does your headunit have any sort of time delay? because thats the only way youlle get a good left and right ballance from mounting your tweets in the sail panels. without time delay your going to be heavily biased to the left side.

Yes, I have an Alpine 9811 w/ time correction. Thanks for the imput and I will check out woofersetc servo. I guess I have been lucky with ebay and have always gotten what i paid for...but i also ask a lot of questions and do a ton of research b4.

 

[parks853]

Yes, I have an Alpine 9811 w/ time correction. Thanks for the imput and I will check out woofersetc servo. I guess I have been lucky with ebay and have always gotten what i paid for...but i also ask a lot of questions and do a ton of research b4.

if I do order from ebay. I like ot get stuff form places that have a website. I make sure they have sold thousands of things. and have atleast a 98% feedback. I dont mess around and take chances with that place. I use a credit card also so I can cancel payment.

 

[ChopstickHero]

you should definitely run more power than 55W RMS to any component set. within reason, the more power you give it, the better it sounds. the Boston Acoustics can take ALOT of power. my friend is running almost 300W RMS to them and another friend is running about 150RMS to them.

I have the JL XR650CSi 6.5 components with a MRV-T420 2 channel amp pushing almost 120W RMS. sounds incredibly clean. great highs and good midbass.

here's a link to a pic of where i mounted my tweeter:
http://public.fotki.com/chopstickhero/image_dump/my_car/115_1553.html
you don't want mount them too high or else your imaging will be off. mount it as close to the mid bass woofer as possible to get the right imaging.

 

[servoeyes]

That's awesome, hero! I have my tweeters almost exactly like that!

As for giving any component set a lot more than 55W...eh...not all of them really need it. The JL TRs and Boston fs series can both do just fine with less power...the VRs would sound really good with between 50-75, but they don't exactly *need* much more. Of course...this coming from the man who has 120 (maybe...need to check the gains) going to his CDTs.

 

[FoxPro5]

Nice setup Chopstick!

So if I mounted the Quart tweets in the stock location wouldn't it be off-axis? I was led to believe that Quarts were good off-axis? Many have said that they were harsh yet were listening to them on a sound board on-axis....uuuuhhhhh?

The Quarts do have the option to mount in the cone...how would this affect imaging and wouldn't this be an on-axis location of the tweeter?

I really don't want to chop the door panel unless i have to...

One more thing, if I bridged my amp (Alpine F-340) to juice the fronts wouldn't i have about 130 x 2 @ 4 ohms? I don't really get the impedance thing yet. How's that for the Quarts? According to the mbquart web site the recommended power range is 60-130 watts. I know you really can't overpower but I'd like to hear the rest of my life too.

In that case, what would you guys recommend for solid sub amp. I have a Infinity Perfect 10" (SVC) in a .6 ft3 sealed box. Stereo for SVC, right? Mono for DVC? I'm looking to spend $200 max.

Thanks fellas... (stash)

 

[ChopstickHero]

FoxPro5,

my cousin has MBquartz (unsure of which model), but anyways, they sound really good. he's running about 100W rms to them off a 2 channel alpine amp. actually, you want the imaging as far in front of you as you can. that's why some people get those speakers in the kick panels. too bad our cars don't have a deep dashboard. my friend mounted his speakers in his VW bug at the corners facing him. the Boston Pros have the ability to mount the tweeter on top of the cone. this is the way to go if you want proper imaging. if you mount the tweeters too high, the highs may sound to bright and the overall SQ may be thrown off a little.

don't worry about overpowering them, it's better than underpowering them. your music will get louder, but also clearer. you'll notice a huge improvement over the stock speakers and non-component speakers. in my car, you can turn it up to the point where it's too loud for listening, but it's still crystal clear, no distortion what so ever. that's a good sign that you bought the right stuff... (hear ya)

 

[servoeyes]

Nice setup Chopstick!

So if I mounted the Quart tweets in the stock location wouldn't it be off-axis? I was led to believe that Quarts were good off-axis? Many have said that they were harsh yet were listening to them on a sound board on-axis....uuuuhhhhh?

The Quarts do have the option to mount in the cone...how would this affect imaging and wouldn't this be an on-axis location of the tweeter?

I really don't want to chop the door panel unless i have to...

One more thing, if I bridged my amp (Alpine F-340) to juice the fronts wouldn't i have about 130 x 2 @ 4 ohms? I don't really get the impedance thing yet. How's that for the Quarts? According to the mbquart web site the recommended power range is 60-130 watts. I know you really can't overpower but I'd like to hear the rest of my life too.

In that case, what would you guys recommend for solid sub amp. I have a Infinity Perfect 10" (SVC) in a .6 ft3 sealed box. Stereo for SVC, right? Mono for DVC? I'm looking to spend $200 max.

Thanks fellas... (stash)

For your tweeters...if you can mount them in the center, do so. Easiest way to do it, and generally sounds better...at least to my ears.

Sub amps:

JL 250/1, JL e1400d, Alpine MRP-M350, Avionixx AXA 400.2. Any of those should serve you well...but you have to take into consideration a few things first. If you have a perfect 10" SVC what is the impedance (ohms)? If you have 4 ohms then look at everything but the alpine. If it's a 2 ohm then can consider everything but the Avionixx.

What SVC and DVC stand for is single and dual voice coil, respectively. DVCs give you more wiring options...for instance...say you get a sub with 4ohm DVCs. Depending on how you wire the sub you can present the amp with either a 2 ohm, 4ohm, or 8 ohm load. If you have one SVC sub...then you are stuck with the impedance of its VC unless you get another sub. Got it?