AWR Oil pan install question
- Thread starter Maz2001MP
- Start date
Little Beavis said:
It most likely only costs that much. I am just wondering what oil pressure reading people are getting without the use of a gasket on the spacer supplied with the AWR pan.
I'm hoping the reading falls within a normal range which should indicate there is no loss of oil pressure from a leak on the pick up tube because of the gasketless spacer.
you guys need to be carfull.
you really should use the gasket,no gasket is a easy way to lose oil pressure,and useing silicone(if not carefull) can be just as bad or worse some can get sucked into the oil pump.
don't do the "it won't happen to me"
I have seen it many times.
another thing I have seen a lot is not having the pickup bracket attached can/will cause the pickup to crack over time,and it's allmost insane how fast your engine will go,and I highly doubt any of you would pay enough attention to a oil pressure gauge to catch it before it's too late.
you really should use the gasket,no gasket is a easy way to lose oil pressure,and useing silicone(if not carefull) can be just as bad or worse some can get sucked into the oil pump.
don't do the "it won't happen to me"
I have seen it many times.
another thing I have seen a lot is not having the pickup bracket attached can/will cause the pickup to crack over time,and it's allmost insane how fast your engine will go,and I highly doubt any of you would pay enough attention to a oil pressure gauge to catch it before it's too late.
I'm sure AWR knows what they are doing and would have included the gasket if it was necessary. Maybe someone could send them a message.
My pickup bracket attached fine. Only one of my bolts wasn't long enough, all the others threaded just fine. However since I'm probably pulling my motor, I may get a gasket and put it in between the spacer, just for peace of mind.
My pickup bracket attached fine. Only one of my bolts wasn't long enough, all the others threaded just fine. However since I'm probably pulling my motor, I may get a gasket and put it in between the spacer, just for peace of mind.
khaosman said:
a lot of the pans I use don't include some of the things I need.for instance I just put a deep sump pan of a 383strocker,and no instructions,or anything says you need to use a different pickup,but you definatly do or else you will be having some real issues.
OFF TOPIC:
I had the bung welding as high as possible on the AWR pan for the return. Threading the Windage Tray wasn't feasible for me.
I am curious to know with a full 5 quarts of oil in the AWR pan, where will the oil level be relating to the pan itself. would the oil level be right at the top of the pan kind of like level with the pan's flange?
The -12an bung was welded as high as possible while allowing the return line to be threaded on.
I had the bung welding as high as possible on the AWR pan for the return. Threading the Windage Tray wasn't feasible for me.
I am curious to know with a full 5 quarts of oil in the AWR pan, where will the oil level be relating to the pan itself. would the oil level be right at the top of the pan kind of like level with the pan's flange?
The -12an bung was welded as high as possible while allowing the return line to be threaded on.
My turbo kit is in. It seems that although the bung on my oil pan is as high as it can be, the oil level on the dipstick can only be half way otherwise the oil won't drain into the pan (AWR pan).
I will drive around like this for about a week. Next week I am going to go to my friends shop and have the crank girdle drilled, tapped and run a rubber return line so I can be able to fill the oil pan to a higher level.
I will drive around like this for about a week. Next week I am going to go to my friends shop and have the crank girdle drilled, tapped and run a rubber return line so I can be able to fill the oil pan to a higher level.
khaosman said:Hmm... half on the dipstick is only like what, a quart short? That isn't bad. How do you figure you can't fill it any more? It isn't like all the oil is in the pan at one time, except when the car is off.
Anyways, how's the turbo?
Turbo is funnn, unfortunately I have a major vacuum leak.
I am just trying to play it safe with the oil level, I am extremely paranoid as I can't really be blowing turbos up and all because I start law school in August (funds are low).
I am going to look into the oil level issue at a later time and just play it safe for now. I also kinda ghetto rigged the oil return so it is leaking small trace amounts of oil for now (temp fix).
I will try to post a new thread later on with pics, etc.
Info for people looking at this in the future...
The stock oil pan bolts are 20mm and 50mm. There are two 20mm ones closest to the transmission. The AWR pan is thicker but your stock bolts should work... however I think 25mm and 55mm bolts would work best. Also, the pickup bracket bolt IS long enough but you need to put a spacer in between it and the block. You could get a bolt that is like 5mm longer if you wanted. Lastly, the part number for the gasket on the pickup is FS01-14-248 so you can have one in between the new spacer and the old one.
Maz2001MP, I checked it out the oil level situation today. From my guesstimate, you are right. The "full" mark on the dip-stick seems to be right at the very top of my fitting (which is as high as possible). However I did not test by filling the oil pan up with what, 5.3 quarts?
Anyways, looking at the main bearing support plate, it looks tough to get a fitting in there. The place where you would tap is kind of a valley, it is not flat. It doesn't seem like you'd be able to thread your fitting down so it is even close to being flush with the outside. Plus if you want to take the MBSP off, you need to remove your transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get the two bolts at the back! You could drill it and tap it while the pan is off, but it'd be tough. Doing all this stuff while the motor is out is so much nicer
Anyways, I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet. The MBSP way seems better, but might be tough to pull off. Plus your line will be super short/awkward, so I'd have to remake return line #1,942 of this install. You'd probably be better off using a rubber hose like you are. You can get really heat resistant nice ones, they just don't have the tough stainless steel outside. Just make sure it doesn't rub on stuff.
And for returning to the pan, it is damn close. The oil level would be right at the top of the fitting with ALL the oil in the pan. I can't imagine when it'd be all in there, even with it off. A good amount is still dripping out of my motor. I don't know though, it'd definitely drain way better the other way. ARG!!!
I'll be sure to post back on what I do, and I'll take some pictures too.
The stock oil pan bolts are 20mm and 50mm. There are two 20mm ones closest to the transmission. The AWR pan is thicker but your stock bolts should work... however I think 25mm and 55mm bolts would work best. Also, the pickup bracket bolt IS long enough but you need to put a spacer in between it and the block. You could get a bolt that is like 5mm longer if you wanted. Lastly, the part number for the gasket on the pickup is FS01-14-248 so you can have one in between the new spacer and the old one.
Maz2001MP, I checked it out the oil level situation today. From my guesstimate, you are right. The "full" mark on the dip-stick seems to be right at the very top of my fitting (which is as high as possible). However I did not test by filling the oil pan up with what, 5.3 quarts?
Anyways, looking at the main bearing support plate, it looks tough to get a fitting in there. The place where you would tap is kind of a valley, it is not flat. It doesn't seem like you'd be able to thread your fitting down so it is even close to being flush with the outside. Plus if you want to take the MBSP off, you need to remove your transmission, clutch, and flywheel to get the two bolts at the back! You could drill it and tap it while the pan is off, but it'd be tough. Doing all this stuff while the motor is out is so much nicer
Anyways, I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet. The MBSP way seems better, but might be tough to pull off. Plus your line will be super short/awkward, so I'd have to remake return line #1,942 of this install. You'd probably be better off using a rubber hose like you are. You can get really heat resistant nice ones, they just don't have the tough stainless steel outside. Just make sure it doesn't rub on stuff.
And for returning to the pan, it is damn close. The oil level would be right at the top of the fitting with ALL the oil in the pan. I can't imagine when it'd be all in there, even with it off. A good amount is still dripping out of my motor. I don't know though, it'd definitely drain way better the other way. ARG!!!
I'll be sure to post back on what I do, and I'll take some pictures too.
do it right the first time.
get an alluminum fitting for the size you need.and weld it to the bedplate,your running risks when you do it to our pans(or AWR),and if you tapped the stock bedplate without having a good place for it.(and there really isn't a good place for it.)
any welding/machine shop should be able to take care of this for under $100.
get an alluminum fitting for the size you need.and weld it to the bedplate,your running risks when you do it to our pans(or AWR),and if you tapped the stock bedplate without having a good place for it.(and there really isn't a good place for it.)
any welding/machine shop should be able to take care of this for under $100.
crashkelly
Banned
reviving an old thread...I had a question for all the AWR users. How is the fitment for the oil pan on an MSP...I heard a rumor there was clearance issues. How did you guys make out? Install was easy? any special things to consider if ordering one of these?
crashkelly
Banned
Nobody can answer my questions?
Black_Protege_5
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5
The P5 had the most clearance issues. And the msp was a little better. Just make sure you leave that rubber cap on the metal tube so you don't damage the pan. Also I would not recommend putting this pan on with out some kind of engine dampening or motor mount.
