At shop and looks like I need rear brakes for the CX-5, recommendations?

:
2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
The mechanic has shown me that I need new rear brakes. Car has 80K miles. The left looks a little thinner on the pad than the right. I haven't had any issues with burning or any weird smells since I've had the car. But he does not turn rotors or higher that out and since we have mountains here in Denver he recommends new rotors and pads but he does offer a very tight warranty. He uses Napa premium. Would you go with that for rotors and or pads? $514. Or pay more and go for brand name. Hoping to get it squeezed into the day yet while he's working on other things.
 
Napa premium in me experiance is a good brand, personally i go for al delcos as they are same manufacture, and i get a better discount on them
 
Napa premium in me experiance is a good brand, personally i go for al delcos as they are same manufacture, and i get a better discount on them
Ok. Napa Premium.Ceramic, $514.49 with tax. Premium coated rotors.

He's right in the foothills and a lot of his customers are in the mountain so the braking situation is much different of course. The akibono brand sounds like they're quite expensive. So I'm trying to weigh out having the rotors turn somewhere and just having new brake pads or maybe the cost isn't so much difference just to let this guy do it with his package. He gives a really good warranty which is nice.
 
Ok. Napa Premium.Ceramic, $514.49 with tax. Premium coated rotors.

He's right in the foothills and a lot of his customers are in the mountain so the braking situation is much different of course. The akibono brand sounds like they're quite expensive. So I'm trying to weigh out having the rotors turn somewhere and just having new brake pads or maybe the cost isn't so much difference just to let this guy do it with his package. He gives a really good warranty which is nice.
Give the rotors a visual check, personally if no sign of warping, discolorations, mareing i still run mine. If you have ever seen the tv show hwy thru hell. Thats my daily drive.
 
Give the rotors a visual check, personally if no sign of warping, discolorations, mareing i still run mine. If you have ever seen the tv show hwy thru hell. Thats my daily drive.
Yeah I Don't have the time today anyway. So not happening today. He did mention there's a small lip in the outer edge of the rotor so it's a little harder to tell the full depth of the pad. He said he could tell by doing a brake diagnostic but that wasn't part of what we had scheduled or anything today.

I called the dealership I've used in the past. And the thing that's odd is for doing an OEM rear brake job it's about the same price with new rotors. They do turn rotors and that would actually be less if the rotors are fine. They say they use OEM parts. And as I understand that's how Akebono. The service manager didn't know actual brand.
 
So at your own discretion, and speaking just personally, a lip on the outside has never bothered me. As long as less then a 16th of an inch and was smooth all the way around.

Get it turned if you can but replacing them isnt that much more of a cost.

Turning here used to be 14 bucks its now 40 so i just pay the 60 and get new ones.
 
If you plan to do the job yourself or have a friend or mechanic who'll install customer supplied parts, you could save a little money on parts by doing what I did on my 2014 Touring. I installed the cheaper (uncoated) AC Delco rotors shown and the pads, both specified for my 2014. Also I've shown the more expensive coated rotors. The Element 3 EHT pads in addition to being much cheaper than Mazda pads provide better bite and don't dust much more than OEM. Other members here have used Centric, EBC, Wagner etc. brands with satisfactory results. Also different brands of aftermarket rotors. No sense turning rotors and making them thinner when the cost of decent aftermarket are reasonable. Less hassle too and avoids chance of poor turning job.
Maybe some members will make some recommendations for pads and rotors.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)



Rear brakes are easy to change. Apparently your 2016 has the Electric parking brake that has to be put into maintenance mode to retract the caliper pistons which is an additional step my 2014 with manual parking brake doesn't require.
 
So at your own discretion, and speaking just personally, a lip on the outside has never bothered me. As long as less then a 16th of an inch and was smooth all the way around.

Get it turned if you can but replacing them isnt that much more of a cost.

Turning here used to be 14 bucks its now 40 so i just pay the 60 and get new ones.
Ya, that's the math I was thinking. Odd tho' the dealership is less than this guy and the dealership is using OEMs. The do turn the rotors but I know it's more than $40. The dealership couldn't confirm if they are Akebono or not. But at $116 per new rotor they were still in the ball park as this guy I was just at today. I'm pretty sure he noted they are also ceramic pads which I know the guy today did quote.
 
If you plan to do the job yourself or have a friend or mechanic who'll install customer supplied parts, you could save a little money on parts by doing what I did on my 2014 Touring. I installed the cheaper (uncoated) AC Delco rotors shown and the pads, both specified for my 2014. Also I've shown the more expensive coated rotors. The Element 3 EHT pads in addition to being much cheaper than Mazda pads provide better bite and don't dust much more than OEM. Other members here have used Centric, EBC, Wagner etc. brands with satisfactory results. Also different brands of aftermarket rotors. No sense turning rotors and making them thinner when the cost of decent aftermarket are reasonable. Less hassle too and avoids chance of poor turning job.
Maybe some members will make some recommendations for pads and rotors.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)



Rear brakes are easy to change. Apparently your 2016 has the Electric parking brake that has to be put into maintenance mode to retract the caliper pistons which is an additional step my 2014 with manual parking brake doesn't require.
Thanks for this Jmaz. Ya, was thinking it may come down to just by new rotors. $$ for the difference it price being close enough. Unfortunately I don't have the circumstances to do it myself. Although, I do have a buddy with a big enough garage up in the mountains and he has a friend who's a retired mechanic. Maybe an opportunity to pick up some beer and set that up. Ha...

This mechanic I was working with today also mentioned he does a lot of detail work that most don't. Filing off any rust (on caliper pins I think?), other items I wasn't familiar with. He was very thorough and takes the time to explain things an show you. Not convenient to get to but seemed worth the drive today.
 
At 80K miles I would for sure get new rotors. They're a relatively cheap part, you won't save much money having them turned. I paid $54 for a pair of premium rear rotors (Raybestos Element 3) online.
 
I endeavor to keep my s**** clean so I'm changing pads for ceramic. The Element 3 pads I'm sure perform well but will dust just as much as the original pads from what I've read. Same with EBC red etc. If you don't care, you have more choices.
 
I paid $200 for rear brakes and turned rotors on my 16 last year. Our 19 needs new rears and they want $380 last time I checked with them. Not sure if the turbo has larger rears which may account for some of the higher price but probably mostly inflation.
This was at the dealer.
 
My original pads didn't dust very much, neither do the Element 3 pads that I put on about a month ago. May be subjective, just haven't noticed much dust on the wheels.
 
My original pads didn't dust very much, neither do the Element 3 pads that I put on about a month ago. May be subjective, just haven't noticed much dust on the wheels.
Which wheels? I think design and color matter. I have the gloss black turbo wheels and I see the rust-colored powder splattered on them after the first drive after a detail. Enough to collect on my finger.
 
I recently put Akebono pads on my Mazda 6. They were about $150 for front and back sets from Amazon. They are a definite improvement over even the OEM pads
 
Which wheels? I think design and color matter. I have the gloss black turbo wheels and I see the rust-colored powder splattered on them after the first drive after a detail. Enough to collect on my finger.
I have two sets of wheels, one is silver/gray, the other is gloss black. I'm not saying there is no dust, just not a lot compared to my other cars.
 
O'Reilly's Auto parts turns rotors for $10 each, and if they can't be turned, will credit that same $10 towards new ones.
 
Is it apples to apples between dealer and mechanic? Are either of them replacing the brake fluid, cleaning and greasing the pins?
 
Is it apples to apples between dealer and mechanic? Are either of them replacing the brake fluid, cleaning and greasing the pins?
Good question. The mechanic I was at yesterday for other work said he does.
 
If the independent mechanic says he does, that's probably true. Make sure he knows how to get the rear brakes into service mode if you have the electric e-brake.
 
Back