Anyone have experience with temporary roof racks for the CX-5?

Isobar

Member
I'm not really comfortable enough to do the drilling required to install the Thule kit listed in another thread, so I was thinking of going the removable/temporary method. I want to install a rack capable of hauling a couple of kayaks. Anyone who could point me in the direction of how you did it and what your experiences have been?
 
Funny you should ask about kayak racks today. I just took my CX-5 into the local Mazda dealership today to show them four large dents that a Yakima Q Tower kayak rack put into the roof rails (the painted metal running along the sides of the car above the doors). While my Yakima rack did not do any damage to a Saab hatchback for the 8 years I used it on that car, by the time I'd used the rack on the CX-5 to haul 2 kayaks on vacation this summer, I had the aforementioned 4 big dents. The rack was properly re-outfitted to fit a CX-5 (I called Yakima directly for the parts list). I'd never had problems before and didn't think twice about using the rack on my new CX-5. If I were you, I'd look into racks that use the grooves on the roof (if you didn't buy the Mazda roof rails). Ask manufacturers LOTS of questions, and don't get the kind of rack that clamps on. The CX-5's thin sheet metal doesn't hold up. My repair bill for taking out the dents and repainting the quarter panels: $1,700, plus cost of the rack parts I bought to retrofit my Yakima rack and the cost of buying a new rack that won't dent. Total: about $2,400.00.
 
Isobar,

It depends on what you want to carry and how often and how far you'll be traveling. If you follow the manufacturer's fit guidelines you should have no problems. I've had racks on every vehicle for close to 20 years now. I've drilled and tracked 3 personal cars and along with both naked roof and factory rail setups. There are advantages and disadvantages to every setup but I always find putting my gear securely outside the car is safer and easier than beating up the interior.

Drilling the roof is for the most determined and most active users as it allows you to have the strongest and best performing racks for your needs. A factory system will add some utility for the car owner but is compromised for less noise and less problems for the dealer/manufacturer. The Yakima, Whispbar, Thule aftermarket options for naked and factory rails fall somewhere in between. Better utility and strength than the factory setup but more limited compared to the custom track.

Specific to the CX5, I can't carry a long cargo box (XC race skis, kayak paddles) and open the rear hatch using the factory rail options. I also need to greater capacity than the 120 lbs offered with the Yakima Q tower. That is why I went with a custom setup. I can more the rack forward to clear the hatch but have a look closer to factory and have a higher capacity to boot.
 
Funny you should ask about kayak racks today. I just took my CX-5 into the local Mazda dealership today to show them four large dents that a Yakima Q Tower kayak rack put into the roof rails (the painted metal running along the sides of the car above the doors). While my Yakima rack did not do any damage to a Saab hatchback for the 8 years I used it on that car, by the time I'd used the rack on the CX-5 to haul 2 kayaks on vacation this summer, I had the aforementioned 4 big dents. The rack was properly re-outfitted to fit a CX-5 (I called Yakima directly for the parts list). I'd never had problems before and didn't think twice about using the rack on my new CX-5. If I were you, I'd look into racks that use the grooves on the roof (if you didn't buy the Mazda roof rails). Ask manufacturers LOTS of questions, and don't get the kind of rack that clamps on. The CX-5's thin sheet metal doesn't hold up. My repair bill for taking out the dents and repainting the quarter panels: $1,700, plus cost of the rack parts I bought to retrofit my Yakima rack and the cost of buying a new rack that won't dent. Total: about $2,400.00.

Interesting. You say 2 kayaks - how much did they weigh? Did you over tighten? Thule's have a limit of about 90 lbs. for the Traverse feet. My 2009 Mazda 6 carries a 55 lb 17 ft canoe with no problem. But I am only carrying 1 boat. Sorry to hear about the dents. Check the limit on your Yakimas.
 
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Isobar, the other thread uses Thule Podium feet. You are not drilling into the roof but into the strip that covers the grove in the roof. You are attaching to the points where the factory rails go. I have the factory rails and use Thule Crossroads to carry my canoes. No problems yet. I would not hesitate to use Thule Traverse feet if I did not have the factory rails (however, see SheWolf's post), but you are limited to about 90lbs. I went with the rail / crossroad combo because it allows a slightly wider spread of the bars and more weight.
 
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I went with a 58 since I often carry 2 boats. Personally I think the 50 is too short if you carry more than 1 of anything (except a bike). The 58's don't stick out too far to worry about hitting yourself.
 
I'd also recommend the 58" bars for kayaks. It makes it much easier to load when the bar overhangs the car. Plus you have the extra space to spread the boats out. You also will have the option to use saddle style mounts instead of the standard J cradles.
 
I agree about 58" crossbars. That's what Yakima recommended to me for the CX-5. They do extend farther out, but not so far that you'll whack your head. There's a lot more width, then, to put two kayaks on the roof.
 

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