Any MS6 Problems?

I have an MS6 that has a loud, very loud, thumping coming from the front end of the car. It is the same sound that a warped rotor would make when stopping but this is through all rotation increasing with speed. I have tried the lugs, tires, and there is no visual damage to the Cv's or axle. I lifted the tires to check the wheel bearing but felt no amount of play or shifting. Any ideas on this one. I also checked the cat con and everything else under the car to insure tightness.
 
owned car for 6 months
94 octane used.
2006 Grand touring edition.
52,000 km.
The problem occurs mostly in cold weather.
I have seen others with this same problem. so i'll post it too.
My trunk open button doesnt open. and the Key light truns red for a week or 2.
and than none of the buttons on the car worked.

resolution: instead of taking it to the dealer, I first replaced the battery in the FOB. than i turned the battery off in the car for 10 mins.

and i sprayed a silcone type glue on the back under the trunk where the Fob antenna is located, right onto the ground wire.

few days past by and the problem went away and no problems since. I know electronically if the ground wire freezes in cold weather and gets wet, the system will short out. MAKE SURE its dry and WARMs up when you do this that way all water evaporates.
thats what i did, use this info at your own risk, but i havent had any problems since.

thanks good Thrread!
 
Mazdaspeed 6 GT
2007
33,000km
Problem. as i role i hear squeaking noises, had the brakes checked removed and lubricated, but yet still hearing this noise. my mechanic says its probably due to my drilled slotted rotors, debris getting in the holes...

this noise is not very loud but loud enough to make me crazy!

what else could it be?
 
Sorry just didnt really feel like using the format cause didnt have much time to post this.

Car- 06 Mazdaspeed 6 GT, 40k miles, 10k on since bought owned for 10 months

So for the past month, car has been in and out of shops with problems. First car was smoking badly, was only peaking at about 10 psi boost wise, was misfiring badly round 3k rpms and idle was very unstable almost stalling. First step i took was to replace the turbo, figured wasnt getting full power to the turbo seals blow, with the oil going through my system. Replaced that, smoking stopped. Idle still barely held, still misfired badly, and still had low boost. On the way back from the shop that swapped out my turbo, i downshifted making a right from 4th to 3rd and car jerked hard and threw a code. said a cylinder was misfiring and that it was due to a weak ignition system, had it looked at and replaced my battery and spark plugs. This solved the idle problem, but engine still misfired. A couple days after i got it back once again, i was driving down the street, shifted into 3rd from 2nd, and clutch blew. Once again, took it into the shop got the clutch swapped out. Engine was still misfiring slightly and turbo was still boosting bout 10 psi, but was definitely drivable. Well sadly to say.. a couple days later (today) i was accelerating from a red light and heard a loud pop under the heard, engine seized, oil light came on, and there was oil splattered all over the engine bay. Having it looked at tomorrow, but have a feeling i threw a rod. Had it in multiple shops including dealership, and no one could figure out what was wrong or what to do. They just thought it was the parts that i replaced. Anyone have any ideas before i move forward with anyone else?
 
Sorry just didnt really feel like using the format cause didnt have much time to post this.

Car- 06 Mazdaspeed 6 GT, 40k miles, 10k on since bought owned for 10 months

So for the past month, car has been in and out of shops with problems. First car was smoking badly, was only peaking at about 10 psi boost wise, was misfiring badly round 3k rpms and idle was very unstable almost stalling. First step i took was to replace the turbo, figured wasnt getting full power to the turbo seals blow, with the oil going through my system. Replaced that, smoking stopped. Idle still barely held, still misfired badly, and still had low boost. On the way back from the shop that swapped out my turbo, i downshifted making a right from 4th to 3rd and car jerked hard and threw a code. said a cylinder was misfiring and that it was due to a weak ignition system, had it looked at and replaced my battery and spark plugs. This solved the idle problem, but engine still misfired. A couple days after i got it back once again, i was driving down the street, shifted into 3rd from 2nd, and clutch blew. Once again, took it into the shop got the clutch swapped out. Engine was still misfiring slightly and turbo was still boosting bout 10 psi, but was definitely drivable. Well sadly to say.. a couple days later (today) i was accelerating from a red light and heard a loud pop under the heard, engine seized, oil light came on, and there was oil splattered all over the engine bay. Having it looked at tomorrow, but have a feeling i threw a rod. Had it in multiple shops including dealership, and no one could figure out what was wrong or what to do. They just thought it was the parts that i replaced. Anyone have any ideas before i move forward with anyone else?


for the entire time from the first misfire to the funky idle, you should have stopped driving your car. thats what i have to say about that. the fact that you continued to drive it, instead of waiting until it was 100% again, is the reason why it blew. even if not 100% how does the clutch blow from a misfire code? sounds to me like the car was being redlined. or at least going into boost often since you obviously went WOT to test it out not getting past 10psi.
 
I was driving the car very easy due to the slight misfires, so I dont know why the clutch blew... but yes I knew it would be better to not drive it, but that wasnt really an option if i wanted to keep my job =/ I bought the car used and have been pretty careful with it since I bought it, so im thinking that maybe the person before me drove it hard.
 
Posting ID: MS6zoey
Model: 2007 Mazdaspeed6 Grand touring
Duration Owned: <6 months
Mileage:26,000
Mods:stock
Fuel Octane Used:94

Problem: 1. Clutch was difficult to operate for normal day to day driving. 2. rattling somewhere from steering column. 3. pop from stock sub. 4. driver window fell out of alignment. 5. motor mount was defective.

Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: 1. daily driving. 2. usually up hill but happened regularly. 3. whenever vehicle was turned on and off. 4. happened while removing tint my mistake. (previous owner used crappy tint film) 5. Motor mount defective.

Steps Taken to Address Problem:1. took to dealership. 2. took to dealership. 3. took to dealership. 4. took to dealership (to see if it was covered in warranty) 5. dealership found issue while doing the clutch TSB.

Resolution of Problem: 1. Clutch TSB was done. (after 4 months of searching for the right dealership to be willing to do the work) 2. dealership tighten a few loose screws or bolts (did not resolve issue, does not bother me to much I'm sure i could fix it myself) 3. dealership replaced head unit, all speakers and sub, did not fix the issue (got new Bose system FTW). they claimed it was "normal." 4. dealership realigned window no charge :). 5. Dealership replaced mount no charge covered under warranty.

Current Status:at the dealership getting clutch TSB done and replacing motor mount, been there for 5 days! waiting on Mount to ship in dealer did not have the part.

Future Plans: after i verify there are no more problems that may be covered in warranty will start to mod. start with CAI, BOV, exhaust, TPIC, etc...
 
2.3L Spun Rod Bearing

Posting ID:Hazels
Model:2006 Mazda 6
Duration Owned: 2 years
Mileage: 70,000
Mods: none
Fuel Octane Used: 87 or 89
Problem: Spun rod bearing
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred: Driving 65mph on highway
Steps Taken to Address Problem:
Resolution of Problem:
Current Status: Junkyard engine being installed
Future Plans: Trade in I guess

Has anyone had a 2.3L spin a rod bearing? I have 70k on the car and my wife and I were driving down the highway (cruise control) and heard a "clicking". Turned the radio down and it would get louder under motor load and quieter when not. Pulled over and it would do the same thing...almost quiet at idle and louder when giving it a little gas.

Took to a shop who pulled the oil filter and it is full of metal.

Called Mazda (no longer under warranty, ended at 50k) to see if they would do anything, they said I had to take to a Mazda dealer which is 40+ miles away and only then would they decide if they would provide "good will" moneys toward it's repair. I asked if they could review my request and if approved I would take to Mazda dealer and they said no.

I'm 43 years old and have had many cars and this is the first one that's blown an engine. Has anyone heard of this happening to these engines? Needless to say, this will probably be my last Mazda.
 
Big Problems

07 Speed6, with a turbonetics bov, and an injen cold air intake..the problem is im getting alot of oil shooting out of my bov....im thinking my turbo is done.
 
Posting ID:GeeZee
Model:06 MS6
Duration Owned: 6 months (6k miles)
Mileage: 31k
Mods: None
Fuel Octane Used:93
Problem:Bucking and power loss
Conditions Under Which Problem Occurred:Normal driving, most noticeable in 3rd and 4th
Steps Taken to Address Problem: Taking the car to Mazda dealership
Resolution of Problem: Pending
Current Status:
Future Plans: None, leaving it stock

The problems began yesterday morning. Bucking/hesitation and noticeable loss of power. Periodic bucking/hesitation starting out in 1st, and then more consistant in 3rd and 4th. No CEL, no smoke, no RPM fluctuations. Have not had a single problem prior to yesterday morning. Car is bone stock and not abused. I've sifted through the threads on TSB's, fuel pump issues, spark plugs, bad gas, etc. Taking it in to the dealership this afternoon...

Update 12/14/09 - Dealership performed the TSB reflash and replaced the primary O2 sensor under warranty, problems solved.
 
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Any MS6 Problems

I have just recently installed a new Athena BB kit On my LTR and after adjusting valves. The quad started just fine for warming it up. Once I tried to start it the second time It seems as though the piston will get to TDC and compression is to tight to thouroughly turn the engine all the way over. WTF If I pull the plug and try to start it, there are no problems at all. The battery was load tested and checked out just fine. What should I do, any ideas? Please help?
 
I have just recently installed a new Athena BB kit On my LTR and after adjusting valves. The quad started just fine for warming it up. Once I tried to start it the second time It seems as though the piston will get to TDC and compression is to tight to thouroughly turn the engine all the way over. WTF If I pull the plug and try to start it, there are no problems at all. The battery was load tested and checked out just fine. What should I do, any ideas? Please help?

Huh?
 

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