Aluminium Intercooler Pipe Kit - DIY FMIC inside

I just installed mine!

I am noticing that the driver side pipes are interfering with the fog lights. it was fun getting the bumper back on.

I also noticed that When i am at a traffic light and rev the engine my boost gauge pins at negative 25 inHg. I know that isn't true because my AP says otherwise. Could this be a sign that my BPV is open during those conditions? it goes back to the idle reading after 3 or so seconds. i also took it out on the highway and am seeing full boost. Anyone have a clue why this is happening? by the way my gauge is connected to the vacuum hose above the BPV.

Pictures to come later!
 
Oh and another thing...I could not get the small t-bolt over the turbo for the life of me. I think it is too small. I ended up using a worm clamp there.
 
to be honest i haven't done a tbolt install here. the outlet of the turbo measures 2 1/16 inches (52mm) which may require stepping up to a 2.5 inch tbolt as overkill as that may seem. if anyone wants to swap for that, i'll send one out. haven't had issues with the foglamp on any installs here.
 
any one have an issues with the j pipe hitting the fog light and making the bumper not really fit right?

and also i was whipping around after leaving a bar and i had a loose clamp and the s pipe disconnected from the u pipe. talk about bad. stalled out no power no juice nothing, right then and there i knew what happened. it was 2 in the morning. cold as hell, and i had to take my bumper off in order to do it. so word of warning... from now on, im carrying a flat head, a phillips head, an 8 mm socket and 1/4 in drive with me at ALL TIMES just incase this happens again. i was lucky i kept them in there in my center console (alot less painful and cheaper then getting towed or flat-bedded.

Well... yeah, the flatbed part wasn't too bad, only $30 out of my pocket beyond what Mazda Roadside would cover.
The bad part? The Mazda Dealership charging me $350 for "diagnostic" and then tightening the clamps on the J and top pipes.
My thought - use some RTV on the pipe coming off the Turbo and on the smooth side of the J pipe. Putting the silicone on the pipe itself will keep it from getting into the FMIC pipes/core and keep those suckas from popping off. Also, set those clamps firsts (re-use the worm-gear from stock, better quality ones from parts store or t-bolts). I dread taking the bumper off again, BUT will be worth it when I don't have to worry about it again! :)
Oh... and Ken made a great point for the coupler coming off the Turbo - only slip on about 1/2", enough for the clamp to be completely over metal/coupler.
 
Here are my pics in order. Enjoy!

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now i notice you have a tube and fin intercooler, and i noticed someone else did. was yours a complete kit or did you buy the core seperate? and thanks for the pics.
 
+1 on having issues with the foglights, Both sides where interfering... I ended up cutting off the tabs that the Ambient temp clips hook into. It is a super tight fit for me but the bumper is on and everything lines up.
 
now i notice you have a tube and fin intercooler, and i noticed someone else did. was yours a complete kit or did you buy the core seperate? and thanks for the pics.

the core is a delta core design actually
 
got it done over the weekend. its been raining so it was a real PITA to get this done but i handled it! haha.

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now for the temp sensor and the fog light problem a lot have had, the temp sensor wasn't a problem. didn't have to bend it or move it at all. fog light, yes i had that issues also and it was a pain to get the bumper on but it eventually went on on. and first test drive didn't get on it really till right before i got home.

cruising about 45mpg dropped it into 3rd an did a pull to 5th an saw a consistent 16.4 boost and with a peak of 18.something till POP! coupler blew off... lukily i was RIGHT by my road an popped it into neutral an coasted home and i have yet to fix it cause ive been so busy. im fairly certain it blew off at the U shaped pipe where it connects to the S pipe not a 100% though.... the worm gear clamps aren't really the best bet for this kit i dont think.

however quality is great and with some t-bolts an proper installation i see NO problems with this kit... another great product from PG. so again, thanks Ken. and i will post back with any other info that comes up althought once its fixed i see no other problems coming up. :p


once its clears up a bit this week i'll get some proper pics up. and ill also be running the AP map stage2+mscai2 91 v105 and let you know how that goes and how it runs.
 
As ken has said, it is a delta core/hybrid fin design. This optimizes low speed cooling (such as in creeping traffic)-tube and fin strength and high speed cooling like a bar and plate. The only downside is the core thickness is usually limited to 2.5-3 inches due to manufacturing standards.

This is the best type of core you can get for this application.

see
http://www.extremeintercoolers.com/tech.html
 
cruising about 45mpg dropped it into 3rd an did a pull to 5th an saw a consistent 16.4 boost and with a peak of 18.something till POP! coupler blew off... lukily i was RIGHT by my road an popped it into neutral an coasted home and i have yet to fix it cause ive been so busy. im fairly certain it blew off at the U shaped pipe where it connects to the S pipe not a 100% though.... the worm gear clamps aren't really the best bet for this kit i dont think.
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I have worm gear and have done a few WOT runs and even on the highway. No couplers have come off. we did tighten everything down with a socket wrench though (really tight) instead of a screw driver. Heres my first log with the fmic installed. She runs right around 16.xx and peaks at 19.75 3rd gear slow shift to slight 4th.


PS>>ken I was wondering if you were able to ship out my elbow joint yet? along with other email?
 

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