All Forge Bpv Owners

i do have a boost guage lol. I am installed the cpe standback as we speak. Maybe it will make it go away. If not stock bpv it is.
 
It won't take care of the issue. :) If it leaked, you would not hit fuel cut, you would just feel a dip in power. Besides, I thought you had a boost gauge?

yes and no...if its leaking back into the recirc that runs back to the intake then there would just be a loss of power. But if the valve is leaking to atmosphere it could deff. cause other issues
 
a leak under vac. will pull in un metered air, causing a lean condition. a leak under boost will do just the opposite. there will be metered air leaking before it makes it into the maniflod. this will cause a rich condition. and considering how rich this car is already at WOT, it could very well cause an engine misfire, due to a flooded cylinder.
 
im taking this valve off and sending it to forge. Even with the cpe base map its still doing it. Stocker runs fine.
 
As you know my car has been stuttering with the forge bpv on. i put the stocker back on and my problems all went away.

IF YOU VALVE ROTATES AROUND THE FLANGE, IT IS LEAKING!!!!
i called forge and he confirmed that it should not be rotating at all.

this is an easy fix. Take the valve off, turn it upside down, you will c a snap ring with two depressions in it. insert needle nose pliers into the depressions and rotate the ring clockwise as hard as you can untill the flange no longer budges.


BTW i called 3 poeple with this vavle....all of theirs were leaking, chances are yours is 2.


you welcome(headbang)

Can you post any pictures of the problem then post a picture of it fixed? I can't picture any of this in my head. Are you talking about the part at the top where the recirc tube is attached? I know that part can spin if you push inwards on it since it compresses the spring, but what you're saying is that it's broken or not on correctly if you can move that top part while the BPV is screwed on as tightly as you can get it?
 
not the top, the whole valve itself moves. You know the thing u screw onto your intercooler, thats the flange. The cylinder looking thing wtih the two hoses attached to it, one on top one bigger on out the side. Thats the valve that moves independent of the flange. Try turning it, and use some muscle
 
not the top, the whole valve itself moves. You know the thing u screw onto your intercooler, thats the flange. The cylinder looking thing wtih the two hoses attached to it, one on top one bigger on out the side. Thats the valve that moves independent of the flange. Try turning it, and use some muscle

Thanks, I know exactly what you meant now. I'm gonna check that out tomorrow morning. I need to change my spring anyway. Ever since I got the ETS intercooler i've been getting fluttering in 3rd and 4th while using the blue spring. It only really happens between 2k and 3k rpms if I let off the throttle. Gonna try yellow with two shims and see if it still flutters.
 
valve flutter is nothing to worry about. comp. surge is bad though. most valves that are stiffer than stock will give a flutter with a low boost vent.
 
valve flutter is nothing to worry about. comp. surge is bad though. most valves that are stiffer than stock will give a flutter with a low boost vent.

I thought when you hear a fluttering noise that it is comp surge. It sounds just like the fluttering from some of the comp surge videos on youtube, just doesn't last as long. It only makes about 2-3 flutters.

Could the cold weather have made it start fluttering? I could have sworn that during the summer when I first put the ETS intercooler on that it didn't flutter using the blue spring.
 
i cant tell you what you have by reading a post. i can tell you that nobody has reported any surge with the blue spring before. it is common to hear a fluttery sound from many bov's while venting a small amount of boost. it is the sound of the piston opening and closing because there is not enough boost built up to make a forcefull exit.
 
I tried to muscle the valve last night at the track after my first run. It definitely turned. I put the stocker on again. I'm wondering if I should send Forge an Email?
 
i dont know what that would do for you. i,m sure they are tight when they ship out. after going from hot-cold and getting shaken around they probably just loosen up a little. if it continues to loosen up, that would be a problem. i think if you tighten it up once, it should not be an issue any longer.
 
One thing I found was that just turning it would not make it totally tight. I had to press it in hard and turn, kinda like when your opening perscription bottles.
 
i ran at the track with this pos last night. 13.8 @ 103, put the stock one back on 13.4 @ 106. im calling forge and throwing this pos in the trash.
 

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