AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Well you haven't made any changes to the map correct? It is meant for a completely stock MSP so there would need to be some modification even if you just have an exhaust.
not all together true... the superstock map is pretty good as long as you're not upgrading the cams, turbo, head, or manifolds. ideal, no, acceptable, yes.
 
not all together true... the superstock map is pretty good as long as you're not upgrading the cams, turbo, head, or manifolds. ideal, no, acceptable, yes.

Well I've been running the super map before I had my steedspeed installed and it would still hit 10.0 almost every time once the car was fully warmed up. Yes it is better than the ECU, but there is plenty more room for improvement.
 
well that also depends on the temp. like I said before I usually have the same problem, and the last couple days where it was around 40-60 about it was cold enough to get me into the 10s every time and usually hit fuel cut when it was cold like that, (with the stock supermap) but when I went out the other day with the stock supermap and it was around 65-68 at the most, it was almost too lean in some areas, I had to add some fuel to the top end and a few sections here and there to keep it in the 11s but I will do some runs when I get the time this weekend maybe and see if it is somewhat consistent at the 65-70 degree temps (hopefully it stays that warm this weekend, damn weather forecasts changes every few hours lol)

I also want to add that I was really really surprised with what cleaning the EGR valve did, even when it was warmer outside, like around the 70s or so, the afrs would still dip into the 10s here and there, but what was strange is afterwords, it ran soo much better and not so rich.. I dono, I'll have to do some more runs to be confident about what is going on
 
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Anyone wanna run me through real quick on how to change the map in the car? I already have the software installed, just wanna know what to expect or the steps to take when doing it.
 
Edit.. oops I guess I did post it already lol, just was posted after a few sec later.. but anyways
I would search through pages 50-60 about, we go into pretty good depth about what the maps do and how it works and how changing this or that will affect the afrs and stuff.. but for starters, I would suggest changing your "over pressure" to 0 or .5 or if you want a lot of people do -1, I personally believe that it helps bring the maps from closed into open loop a little faster in boost, but also, for data logging go to AUX input or output I forget, but the values should be 10 and 2 if you have the AEM wideband for the values a and b I think it is...um I would reliable AUX A as AFR or something like that just so it's easy.. do 3rd gear runs, do several at a time before changing anything, and only change things that are somewhat consistent between the runs you do. and make sure you do very small changes at a time... there is an option there to "change value by" it is a % change, so change value by 1 or -1 will change it by .1, also I think I mentioned this above, when your car is at rpm 3.4k rpm for example, and 6.7 psi, the cell value the map will use is 3.5k rpm and 7psi, it rounds up pretty much, so make sure you know which cells you are changing and the range you want to change before you actually change it.. other than that, just take your time, and look around those pages I suggested before.. it might start around page 40 instead of 50.. but it is where I start posting a lot and there are a lot of these similar topics posted there

oh, should be obvious but never know.. sometimes your laptop will think the connection (if it is usb) is a mouse, if it does this, make sure your comp. is on before you plug into the ssafc, and if it happens to make your mouse bounce all around, just disconnect and connect a few times till it works, have the program open sometimes helps too, also car should be off, but if you turn it all the way on it sometimes helps connect, just turn off once it is connected to the "on" position.. I think that is about it, all of this and more was covered in the pages like I said b4.. I asked a lot of questions when I started out lol so its all covered.. hidden
 
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This is for Ricktalife. I set it all up for you. If you don't see an improvement with this then im affraid you have an issue somewhere other than the map.

P.s. Always double check the overpressure setting before loading...I set to -0.5

Let me know!
 

Attachments

1) remove head from ass....

Wow, or we could try not being the ass... A little help once in a while wouldnt hurt you would it? Oh yeah and thanks for moving all the maps up front, maybe useless comments could be kept to ourselves next time though.

Anyone wanna run me through real quick on how to change the map in the car? I already have the software installed, just wanna know what to expect or the steps to take when doing it.

well DJ, here are a couple posts that should help it is the method I have been using and I can see when fuel is being taken away or added. Some people say to shut off ignition and wait a minute but it doesn't seem to make a difference when I don't do that.

im using my wb to roadtune it.

the exact procedure we follow is

1. Edit Fuel Map
2. Key turned to ignition on (motor turned off)
3. Write edited map to ECU
4. Once Writing to ECU is completed, we turn on the car and go for a drive.

i pulled fuel from 8.8 to 8.6, 8.2, 7.8, down to 7.2 w/ no changes to the afr @ 14-15psi.

hehe ok yes you are running VERY VERY rich....it seems like you never actually uploaded the newer map. To correctly upload a map to the afc you need to open the file you wish to upload. For example if you downloaded a map named 440lcruz, you'll need to first open the r4 sofware go to the file dropdown, select open and then find/select the 440lcruz file. ONce you have done this click connect to ecu and goto the drop down menu at the top and select map a. Now at the top left corner of the "excel" sheet will be 2 buttons, one to download the current map and one to upload the new map to the ecu...you want to write map to ecu...this will take a few minutes depending on the speed of your connection. ONce this is done then click the disconnect from ecu button and close the software...
 
This is for Ricktalife. I set it all up for you. If you don't see an improvement with this then im affraid you have an issue somewhere other than the map.

P.s. Always double check the overpressure setting before loading...I set to -0.5

Let me know!

You are the man. If my motor goes boom I am coming to your door :)

...kidding <3
 
^^ I'm curious, what did you do,(jaysanooch) and how did you set the map up for him without using his car to tune it.. or are you just using a map with similar mods and stuff? j/w because if it is a good map, you should edit your post with the map attached and ask wagon to move it to the front maybe.. couldn't hurt, but if it's normal stock supermap with nothing really changed than nvm I guess.. but I'm just wondering

oh and SprNater, I agree it is harsh but this might explain a little....this is from the "post best pics of your msp" thread.. and wagon I assume since you posted this on the thread, it's not something that I wouldn't be able to post here, as far as to the warning of crankiness
AAAAAAAND I guess I have to remind everyone of this again.


fair warning: I'm cranky, my grandfather is dying, and I WILL take it out on anyone who gives me just cause with stupid bulls*** posts in here.
 
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It isn't changed all that much from the Supermap I think, but I just tested it out and it seems to work better for me.
 
ya I'm just wondering if he actually tuned it with his car with similar mods or something like that, or if there is some mystery behind his workings lol
 
Wow, or we could try not being the ass... A little help once in a while wouldnt hurt you would it? Oh yeah and thanks for moving all the maps up front, maybe useless comments could be kept to ourselves next time though.

he knows I'm just screwing with him... I help whenever I can (ask dub about his FMIC), but loading a new map is one thing I haven't done with the AFC yet... lacking a windows laptop makes it difficult.
 
^^ I'm curious, what did you do,(jaysanooch) and how did you set the map up for him without using his car to tune it.. or are you just using a map with similar mods and stuff? j/w because if it is a good map, you should edit your post with the map attached and ask wagon to move it to the front maybe

Actually I'm trying to determine if Ricktalife's AFC is working cause he's been having trouble tuning. This is my current summer map which seems to be running very well.

My mods: Buld motor on 8.5:1 compression pistons-stock injectors-Mp3 intake mani-steedspeed exhaust mani-JDM intake cam-GHL 3" TB-short ram intake-rebuilt/ported stock with t28 guts.

Boost is 2 stage: low is 8-9psi spikes to 10.5 and high is 10.5ish spike to 12psi. Runs pretty agressive 12.5 AFR's until 4700-5000 then dips to 11.5 AFR by 6000rpm.

If you want to put it on the first page...go ahead I think it's very comparable if not better than the supermap.
 
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with stock turbo? hmm, I heard that the 8.5:1 compression is pretty slow outta boost, and I would think with stock turbo that it would be even slower than 9:1, but I don't know

but quick question, you said you run agressive afrs as 12.5 until mid/high rpm, I questioned myself a bunch when adjusting my maps on this, I have no problem keeping my afrs pretty lean for the first few psi of boost while it switches loop but right now my boost builds really fast, so it goes from 3psi to 9psi within a few hundred rpm, but the afrs sometimes still run around high 11-low 12.. what do you guys think about the dangers of zoom zoom boom at lower rpm while building boost, I think it does this no matter what stock, so as long as the afrs goes down quickly after boost is built I don't see it as a big problem.. any comments ?
 

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