AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library
- Thread starter lcruz64
- Start date
Spiced MSP
Member
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- 2016 Peterbilt 579
no, I have probably driven about 3 or 4 miles so far
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
Ok, I was running the superstockmap and the car was running great until today when I went to a 50/50 set up (added a HKS SSQV to the cold pipe). The car will run through 1st and 2nd no problems when I get to 3rd it start spuddering at 5-6 rpm (sounds like not getting enough fuel) shift into 4th gear same thing spuddering 5-6 rpm. Any ideas on which map I should use to try to correct?
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justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
if your car is sputtering at that rpm it might actually be too much fuel, do you have a wideband?
if so look and see what your afr's are at that point and go from there
if so look and see what your afr's are at that point and go from there
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
it was running about 10.3 is what was showing on the digital guage
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
yea thats way too rich, once it goes past 11's the car will start to bog down, try leaning it out a little in that rpm range, and i mean VERY LITTLE,
you dont want it to go too lean, especially at that rpm
you dont want it to go too lean, especially at that rpm
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
that's funny that you say that because I noticed that when I switched to 50/50, and put a BOV on my setup, I started getting some problems eventually, and since then I have not found a tune or map that consistently works, it always runs crazy rich, I will tune it then it just goes back to being rich.. and hitting fuel cut kinda.. which is why I am switching to a fmic with a bov only and relocating my MAF sensor.. if that fixes the problem than I know that the 50/50 setup was screwing me up before.. I will keep everyone updated once I finish the install and get my parts in, but I just find that interesting that it started after you switched
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
any one else running a 50/50 set up that has a pretty good map for the ssafc? with the mods that are similiar to what i have?
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
what kind of problems were you running into?
Spiced MSP
Member
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- 2016 Peterbilt 579
I am running a dual setup but I just installed my SSAFC last weekend so I haven't really "tested it out" yet. So far it seems a lot better than the stock tune. I have opened it up a little bit and it definitely is better than the stock tune but I haven't hit full boost with it yet. I think I just said the same thing two different ways..lol
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
then we should be running the same map the superstock.... let me know if you run into anything in 3rd and so on after at and after 5rpm.
Spiced MSP
Member
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- 2016 Peterbilt 579
yeah, we are using the same map, Ill let you know if I run into any issues
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- MSP 1145
not sure what's different in zachs setup, over kickers.. but i'm running kickers setup and when i go into try and boost, it doesn't do a damn thing but bog down, and hit 10AFR.. i'm guessing it would go lower..dang.. oh well off to kooldino to tune the b****.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
same thing you were talking about, it is strange because after I finished tuning it a little, the car ran great while the comp. was still connected, but then when I disconnected it, the car when back to being too rich and slower the next day, and even right after, and it was around the same temp outside.. but overall the map needs to be tuned at low boost throughout the rpm range and since I am installing my fmic kit now and relocating the MAF sensor I won't have the same setup as you once I go and tune it again, but if you want, I will upload the map I had, it doesn't have much done to it, just at full boost/full WOT, I had it tuned at 8.5psi a little then moved it up to 10psi and tuned it a little there, so whichever psi your at it should be ok... the only thing I will say, is overall it will have to be leaned out a little more, say be -.1, and then I would do some datalogging at 2-5psi, do 2 runs for each psi, so 2 runs at 2psi, then 2 at 3, and so on, so you can tune the car throughout the rpm range, which is good when your on the highway and not really flooring it, and better shifts.. I didn't get time to do that before I tore my car apart.. but the map I have is slightly "better" than the stock supermap, also I recommend that once you have it kinda tuned, (I said this a few posts ago) but make a copy of your map, and then go under File, and Compact Database (under the R4 File tab) and that will erase all the extra crap from being loaded onto the ssafc, but it will take a while but that should help it a lot, I also write down in the "notes" section the temp. it is about outside, because a 20* difference will make a big difference for tuning, especially with a cai, and for my car, I have a little air scoop in the splash guard for the cai filter, so it really gets colder air(if it is cooler outside)
there is the map, you can test it out, and edit it from there, it's just a small start, but it's better than starting from the supermap, the other map I have uploaded is from last year, and you could try that one out too, but the one I had late in the summer was with a small exhaust leak, but I don't think I uploaded that one onto here anyways.. the only difference is the 626 intake mani, but it shouldn't be a huge difference, and you have the Steedspeed also
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SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
also a question of my own, has anyone seen on the recordings a straight drop in the rpm and ARF readings, I would show you but I deleted them because they were useless, I don't feel it in the car, but my only guess is that it looks like fuel cut and when the engine stops, but like I said I don't feel it in the car when I am doing those runs, the other option is that the connection is bad sometimes and is just a strange decrease in power.. but just curious if anyone else has had similar issues..? it's hard to explain but also I just thought of another reason, (maybe my clutch slipping slightly but I would think I would notice that) or more likely it might be when I am letting off the gas completely right before I start the run.. but it doesn't exactly look like that on the graphs.. I dono.. im lost
boricuapuro
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP YELLOW
Just ran the map you posted and also used the kelly2 map. I had some spuddering issues with the one you posted, but when I used the kelly2 map it worked like a charm no spuddering at all. My only concern is that ever since my install of the steed and the SMIC my boost is hitting 12psi at times. Any ideas as to why?
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
hm, ya I don't know what the kelly2 map had for mods, I thought most of the maps posted had fmic kits, but as long as it works well, just keep an eye on the afr ratios, but what kind of boost controller do you have, an ebc? if you do than you need to readjust those things for different temps. and stuff, but since your in FL that isn't really a problem, but after adding the SteedSpeed mani you'll have to readjust it, because it should make the turbo spool better and most likely faster, so the previous settings you had are no good, just lower the start boost or whatever you can for the ebc and go from there.. other than that I dono because besides maybe having a bad wga (which you could/should test anyways, just blow into the vac line, you shouldn't be able to get air through) a mbc shouldn't cause that problem, but I dono, just readjust the boost controller
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
backfire, happens all the time, your code will prob. be for running to lean, do you have the milenia pvc? that helped it a little, that and an oil catch can I noticed helps a little but not really needed at all(I might just think it helped lol) but are you running a 50/50 setup bov/bpv?... either way it's caused from running rich and usually in between shifts or when you blip the throttle some gas ignites... I haven't had them lately, not sure what I did differently to stop getting them, the tune will help, so I would start looking at some maps and doing some tuning, also clean your egr valve, that seemed to have helped me a lot for some reason.. also I had changed my coil packs/wires I think was the biggest thing that helped me
and ya this install is really cake, people get all freaked out from all the wires and stuff, but it's really easy once you separate it, and I highly recommend getting some vac lines from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=18&osCsid=7b79c072b1896d5ca9afc8f07e959d54 the walls are really thick and they handle the heat very well too, haven't had any problems what so ever in the last 2 years about that I have run them, and I haven't had to replace any yet, and they are pretty cheap, just get a bunch of it and you can always have extra, it's nice, for $50 I got tons, some 4mm I think it was an mostly the size closest to 3/16" and I just used it for mostly everything, and still have some left over
and ya this install is really cake, people get all freaked out from all the wires and stuff, but it's really easy once you separate it, and I highly recommend getting some vac lines from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=18&osCsid=7b79c072b1896d5ca9afc8f07e959d54 the walls are really thick and they handle the heat very well too, haven't had any problems what so ever in the last 2 years about that I have run them, and I haven't had to replace any yet, and they are pretty cheap, just get a bunch of it and you can always have extra, it's nice, for $50 I got tons, some 4mm I think it was an mostly the size closest to 3/16" and I just used it for mostly everything, and still have some left over
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