Okay so i installed my aem wb guage today. At idle im getting 14.7-15.4 area. At wot i get around 10.1-11. Is this normal? I thought it would be lower at idle. Any help would be appreciated. Maybe some of ur numbers would help me understand the numbers alittle more. Thank you.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library
- Thread starter lcruz64
- Start date
Jaysanooch
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Msp
Okay so i installed my aem wb guage today. At idle im getting 14.7-15.4 area. At wot i get around 10.1-11. Is this normal? I thought it would be lower at idle. Any help would be appreciated. Maybe some of ur numbers would help me understand the numbers alittle more. Thank you.
Yes at idle, that's where you should be and that's where all cars should be at. The idea is you want A/F to go "high" meaning lean no more than 14.7-15.4 when cruising and go "lower" rich when you go 1psi++.
Your 10.1-11 Afr's at WOT are still on the rich side but typical of a base map at low boost. I played around with my map which still needs improvement....at 7psi and I get 10.5-11.9 depending on the rpm at WOT. If you read this thread from start to finish, you'll pick up some very useful info.
- :
- MSP 1145
i bought a used afc and it has a custom tune on it. how do i reload the supermap back on there?
i told you already how to do that.
Jaysanooch
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Msp
Hey I got a question for you gurus out there... could anyone possible be able to help me establish a safe based tune. for a forged block, 9:0 to 1 compretion.
The supermap is a good start. We would need more details to help you example what: -intercooler
-boost level
-injectors
-turbo
Things like that would help us help you because there's a few custom maps on this thread that my suit your set up.
The supermap is a good start. We would need more details to help you example what: -intercooler
-boost level
-injectors
-turbo
Things like that would help us help you because there's a few custom maps on this thread that my suit your set up.
so far the build is going to look like this....
GT28RS, 10PSI daily, Intercooled with 2in pipes, forged internals, subaru 440 injectors, 626 intake, I am trying to get a 3in turbo back exhaust but, I dont feal like payin 300 to 400 for one, so I am attempting to make one my own...
SeR_Cyclops
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege
Instead of reading 58 pages, im going to ask this question, how do i tune my SS AFC V1. i have the R4 software and i can connect it to my AFC so as far as the numbers are concerned do i just change them by .1 at a time? any light in making this easier for me would be great. and if you all have to know i have a MAM FMIC, AFC v1, Aem wideband, Short ram intake, 10psi on a greddy e-01, and a open down pipe.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
with the v1 you will need to tune it while looking at your wideband, and when you want to adjust the AFR showing up on your wideband when you do your pass, than just find out what rpm you were at and boost (having a person there with you would be smart) and match it up with the box in the ss afc fuel map and adjust it accordingly . ie. a little leaner mixture, just add to the box #
-as far as the #s just change them .1 at a time, or you can go to the top, there is an option somewhere that allows you to change by %, but I would just start out with changing things by .1, without datalogging it will most likely take a while to tune, but take your time and do little steps and you will get there eventually, the payoff is nice when you finally get a good tune and you do it yourself... or you can always either buy a datalogging software and setup and do that, or go to a dyno, which you should do anyways when your done tuning it, to make small adjustments
-oh also for connecting, make sure you have a straight DB9 male to DB9 female connection, if you don't have a DB9 (9port/pin) connection on your laptop than get one of those USB adopters w/supporting software, but the cables can't have any extra splices or other attachments onto it and connect it after you start your computer up (sometimes it things that it is a mouse if you have a USB adapter) and make sure you know which port it is connected to, you can go through your computer control counsel/add remove hardware or something like that, or just flip through all the ports trying to connect.. and the car has to be on ACC, I connected while it was ON w/ engine running the first time, but make sure you DON'T change/upload anything at all, I just did it to see if I could connect, then I turned the car off and back to ACC and connected... hope that helps, should be about it
-as far as the #s just change them .1 at a time, or you can go to the top, there is an option somewhere that allows you to change by %, but I would just start out with changing things by .1, without datalogging it will most likely take a while to tune, but take your time and do little steps and you will get there eventually, the payoff is nice when you finally get a good tune and you do it yourself... or you can always either buy a datalogging software and setup and do that, or go to a dyno, which you should do anyways when your done tuning it, to make small adjustments
-oh also for connecting, make sure you have a straight DB9 male to DB9 female connection, if you don't have a DB9 (9port/pin) connection on your laptop than get one of those USB adopters w/supporting software, but the cables can't have any extra splices or other attachments onto it and connect it after you start your computer up (sometimes it things that it is a mouse if you have a USB adapter) and make sure you know which port it is connected to, you can go through your computer control counsel/add remove hardware or something like that, or just flip through all the ports trying to connect.. and the car has to be on ACC, I connected while it was ON w/ engine running the first time, but make sure you DON'T change/upload anything at all, I just did it to see if I could connect, then I turned the car off and back to ACC and connected... hope that helps, should be about it
The supermap is a good start. We would need more details to help you example what: -intercooler
-boost level
-injectors
-turbo
Things like that would help us help you because there's a few custom maps on this thread that my suit your set up.
and whats this "supermap" you speak of?
- :
- MSP 1145
and whats this "supermap" you speak of?
it's in the original post.
- :
- MSP 1145
I looked at it and it didnt give me any technical data about it...
it's something you have to download. then load it to your unit.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
I posted this a couple pages back, or more than a couple but anyways read through this if you have questions about the actual tuning, the supermap is a "stock" map that goes with the SS afc most of the time, (at least for our cars) it is a great basemap, and just use that, download it, and you can look at it when you load it onto the R4 software, you can look through the info then, but I would just give it a glance, load it onto your afc and start tuning from there and doing runs/datalogging if you have it, or just tuning "on the go kinda".
-but as said before just load the map first then you can look at it
-but as said before just load the map first then you can look at it
Attachments
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
I was playing around with adding fuel at very low boost just to try to get it to around 11.5-12 afr before 2psi or so, but I don't think I ever got to try it out before it got cold out and I smashed my car.. (loser)
where are you trying to add fuel
where are you trying to add fuel
New Posts and Comments
- Replies
- 7
- Views
- 461
- Replies
- 10K
- Views
- 2M
- Replies
- 11
- Views
- 303