AEM F/IC writeup

I'd like to see your wiring, and what you've done to get the car running on the F/IC.
But as of right now, theres about a 95% chance I'm going to sell this car and put my ass back in some Genesis Coupe leather.
 
Dyno numbers mean nothing without the plot. Also, you should have a plot of the AFR on the same graph. Any decent tuner should have this as a bare minimum to tune a car.

You should also have an OBDII scanner on at all times now, and watch your trims if you did any kind of O2 modification. He may give the car back to you and two days later, you could start hitting fuel cut again because of the LTFTs.

I am fairly positive my tune is the best you can possibly do with a piggyback, and you'll still have those two corner case where you are WOT for more than 3 seconds in closed loop mode, or you shift into closed loop mode. Both are rare cases that are easily avoidable, but it's something you'll need to be aware of now.
 
Idk my tuner has been tuning for 0ver 25 years yes he is old and he knows exactly what he is doing!!!! Aem also offered to send a tech from cali to help him with the Fic.... I am aware of all of this and that's why he worked on my car for at least a week straight.... Oh well i knew the hating was gonna begin!
 
Idk my tuner has been tuning for 0ver 25 years yes he is old and he knows exactly what he is doing!!!! Aem also offered to send a tech from cali to help him with the Fic.... I am aware of all of this and that's why he worked on my car for at least a week straight.... Oh well i knew the hating was gonna begin!

From my extensive testing and research, there are certain limitations that cannot be avoided with any piggyback ECU. You should be aware of these limitations.

If he has devised a way to covercome these, I would certainly be happy to know how.
 
big Lou, why not just post a copy for everyone to see? If you prefer not to post a copy, can I get a copy. I would truly appreciate taking a look at it. I can pm you my email, just let me know. Thanks.
 
I dont know how ricktalife can possible do it i'm just computer dumb.. And @ jdwk tweetyspeed has the fic and has tuned the car to 429whp believe it or not on a gt35 Garret.. He's rarely on the forums anymore. As far as the limitations go Aem said tuning is a bit difficult but not impossible, Sure you may not be able to control the fans, do boost per pound etc..etc.. but we are making this tunable and smogable..
 
You can tune above 4200 rpms just fine with any piggyback. 429 whp was not made in closed loop. If all I cared about was open loop, I would have never tapped the O2 and would have had my car tuned the very first night I installed the LC-1, however many weeks or months ago that was.

If you have the car back, and a wideband on your AUX input of the FIC, you should be able to get nice logs like I have been posting, regardless of what plots your tuner gave you.

First of all try, flooring it below 4200 rpms and see if you feel a change in power at 4200 rpms. You may not be able to notice it with your butt dyno, but you'll see it in the Injector Duty cycle and AFR plots of your log. If there is no transition, then your O2 has been modified, and you'll need a scan tool to make sure your trims are tuned out.

If your trims are good (close to 0), then you can try the two scenarios I mentioned before, but they will only cause a problem if your tuner modified your O2 signal for closed loop operation.

1. Take the car up to speed, and put it in a high enough gear so that you can floor it for more than three seconds without hitting 4200 rpms. Look at the AFR and duty cycle plots. You should see a spike in fuel when the car goes to open loop. If your tuner added fuel in the closed loop region to avoid LTFT's (which he should have), then you will run excessly rich until you are above 4200 rpms.

2. The other scenario is when you take the care at full throttle past 4200 rpms, and then upshift to rpms lower than 4200 rpms. The car will stay in open loop even though you dropped below 4200 rpms, and you have the same problem of too much fuel.

I've mentioned this before, but this is a very livable situation. Both of these scenarios are rare and can easily be avoided, but you need to understand what's going on with your trims, or you could pull the battery one day inadvertently resetting your PCM, and then blow your engine because your positive trims were wiped clean.
 
He got it to work and he explained that to me and has smooth it all out and AEM was able to talk him through it... The map does fight the maf, but he tuned it where the transition is smooth...I have a walboro and he said he had to take fuel away at 6k plus instead of dumping fuel....
 
Ecu Fic Ecu Fic
21- ckp+ A8 ckp-In 85 Cam+ A22 Cam+ out
22- Ckp- A19 Ckp+In 86 Cam- A11 Cam -Out
A10 ckp-Out B9 Cam+ In
A9 Ckp +Out B10 Cam - In

He also made 23b to 24b
 
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