Advice Needed - Considering an MS3
- Thread starter DaleNixon
- Start date
when you don't want it and you're walking out of the dealership, telling them, "ok, i guess we can't do business together," this is when you will get the upper hand.
i ******* love the car business and if i loved sales, i would definitely sell cars again.
ANYONE who wants to buy a car in the san fernando valley in southern california, hit me up and i'll go to the dealership with you.
i ******* love the car business and if i loved sales, i would definitely sell cars again.
ANYONE who wants to buy a car in the san fernando valley in southern california, hit me up and i'll go to the dealership with you.
you're absolutely right. the most powerful negotiating tactic you have is walking out the dealership. 90% of the time, they'll stop you and cave in. the remaining 10% of the time, they'll call you.
my advice: offer invoice price. they will say no. start walking out.
if they say ok to invoice, buy.
if invoice + 100 to 200, negotiate more or ask for freebies like:
rear cargo liner or wheel locks or both.
i actually forgot to ask for freebies, and now i realize the cargo liner is essential, and it costs about 40-60.
if they won't give you those item, walk out again.
it's fun! the economy is in the doldrums. they're desperate to sell cars, even the ms3.
i didn't negotiate this car deal at all. i walked in, put myself together, and drove out with a new car. i was just happy the bank bought me without a co-signer AND with another car loan on my credit.
i forgot to ask for stuff in addition to what i was getting. but whatever. way too late now. hahaha
i forgot to ask for stuff in addition to what i was getting. but whatever. way too late now. hahaha
I made an internet offer of $21.5K. I'm sure they won't accept that, but it gives me a bit of wiggle room. If they keep it as low as, say, $22K or so, I'll pick the car up within two weeks. Otherwise it's hiboost time for the P5! Thanks again for the insight.
I hope you get a noob there, otherwise they will probably want to set an appt with you.
Ask them their price. If they give you sticker price, haggle with them. "Come on I know that is what it says on the sticker, what are you going to do for me"
Once they drop it, throw out another card...Maybe the MSRP price if they are still above it, or maybe the TMV price if they are above that. Either way all your doing is spending another card in your deck to show them you know whats going on and to get them to drop the price again.
The last two cards you have to play are invoice and holdbacks. I would say rebates, but last I checked there are no rebates on the MS3 at this time.
Have this stuff printed off the internet, actual paper, let them know they can keep that.
Remember your dealing with a pawn. The Sales Manager, the head honcho is in the back room actually watching you and your expression, seeing that he knows what he keeps telling his sales associate to say everytime he goes back to "check with his manager".
You have all of these cards to play, plus know what they have on the lot. They absolutely positively want to sell you a car that is on their lot. Work a car that they don't have, maybe a car that they have to do a dealer trade with. They wont be happy and they will try to get you to buy one of theirs. Even if you want one of theirs, negotiate a car they don't have.
Why?
Cause once you've played all of your cards and gotten them down to the lowest price they are goinig to go, a price you're happy with, you say this... "so what can you do for me if I was to buy the black one you have on the lot".
Wow! I bet they are going to drop even more.
Remember in any car deal you are going to get screwed. No matter how much you battle and how good you are, in the end they will all be getting payed. Make sure you are happy with the price and happy with the car.
But do play the game, don't go in there telling them what you will pay. Have them tell you what they will give it to you for.
And seeing that you already made an online bid, don't worry about it, go there in person and start fresh.
Good luck.
Gmac
Ask them their price. If they give you sticker price, haggle with them. "Come on I know that is what it says on the sticker, what are you going to do for me"
Once they drop it, throw out another card...Maybe the MSRP price if they are still above it, or maybe the TMV price if they are above that. Either way all your doing is spending another card in your deck to show them you know whats going on and to get them to drop the price again.
The last two cards you have to play are invoice and holdbacks. I would say rebates, but last I checked there are no rebates on the MS3 at this time.
Have this stuff printed off the internet, actual paper, let them know they can keep that.
Remember your dealing with a pawn. The Sales Manager, the head honcho is in the back room actually watching you and your expression, seeing that he knows what he keeps telling his sales associate to say everytime he goes back to "check with his manager".
You have all of these cards to play, plus know what they have on the lot. They absolutely positively want to sell you a car that is on their lot. Work a car that they don't have, maybe a car that they have to do a dealer trade with. They wont be happy and they will try to get you to buy one of theirs. Even if you want one of theirs, negotiate a car they don't have.
Why?
Cause once you've played all of your cards and gotten them down to the lowest price they are goinig to go, a price you're happy with, you say this... "so what can you do for me if I was to buy the black one you have on the lot".
Wow! I bet they are going to drop even more.
Remember in any car deal you are going to get screwed. No matter how much you battle and how good you are, in the end they will all be getting payed. Make sure you are happy with the price and happy with the car.
But do play the game, don't go in there telling them what you will pay. Have them tell you what they will give it to you for.
And seeing that you already made an online bid, don't worry about it, go there in person and start fresh.
Good luck.
Gmac
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This is the only way I buy cars now...
I have bought two cars this way and one by going in and haggling...
the latter sucks and is a pain in the ass.
By doing it over the phone you have more control and don't have to deal with any of the games the dealers play (good sales guy/mean manager, the waiting game, etc...)
All of your tactics are sound and could be used over the phone as well...
just my $.02 but over the phone is the best car buying experience...
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I don't think they're going to respond to my internet query anyway. I'll probably give them a ring later today. I am not driving 70 miles to that dealership unless I'm leaving in a new Speed3.
Edit: Nevermind. I got a response. He wanted to know which VIN # car I am interested in purchasing. I gave him the VIN so we'll see what happens (he's probably hoping I was offering $21.5k for the used one they have). LOL internet dealing. Yea yea, I might be approaching this in a really stupid way. We'll see how it turns out. I'll keep the thread updated.
Edit: Nevermind. I got a response. He wanted to know which VIN # car I am interested in purchasing. I gave him the VIN so we'll see what happens (he's probably hoping I was offering $21.5k for the used one they have). LOL internet dealing. Yea yea, I might be approaching this in a really stupid way. We'll see how it turns out. I'll keep the thread updated.
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designflaw
Member
- :
- 2008 MazdaSpeed3 GT & 2016 CX-5 AWD GT
Hell yeah! Email + Phone is the easiest way. I gave my salesman a $500 cc deposit over the phone and waited patiently for a month for my car to arrive. I didn't even deal with him in person until I went to go pick it up.
designflaw
Member
- :
- 2008 MazdaSpeed3 GT & 2016 CX-5 AWD GT
That'd be nice to get em down on the nav... just make it clear that you don't want/need it and that you're perfectly willing to wait for car you want. You're the one making the sacrifice of not getting what you want so they should have to pay for it...
From the dealer:
> The black one sold today as well. I am left with a red sport and the white
> grand touring. I can sell the red for $21,750 and the GT for $24,990, both
> plus tax and $105.50 for license.
>
>
>
> What do you think?
Ok, what would be a good price for a white GT with nav? Could I realistically get it lower than $24,990?
I think the Red one he mentions is the used one they have on the lot with 9,000 miles on it in which case he is asking me for $1000 more than autotrader lists.
> The black one sold today as well. I am left with a red sport and the white
> grand touring. I can sell the red for $21,750 and the GT for $24,990, both
> plus tax and $105.50 for license.
>
>
>
> What do you think?
Ok, what would be a good price for a white GT with nav? Could I realistically get it lower than $24,990?
I think the Red one he mentions is the used one they have on the lot with 9,000 miles on it in which case he is asking me for $1000 more than autotrader lists.
happy and angry
Member
He'll be way more likely to drop $750 off a base one than almost $2000 off the GT. You might want to make your offers on both a similar price drop, rather than such an obviously skewed one. But hey, good luck either way, it's a fantastic ride.
I responded with this:
"I'm assuming both cars are the 2008 model as well. Red is the color I want the least, so I'd only be willing to go for around $20,750 for that one. I'd be willing to go $23,000 for the white since that's the color I was looking for."
I think I'd be happy either way.
Fingers crossed here people!
"I'm assuming both cars are the 2008 model as well. Red is the color I want the least, so I'd only be willing to go for around $20,750 for that one. I'd be willing to go $23,000 for the white since that's the color I was looking for."
I think I'd be happy either way.
Fingers crossed here people!
Those sound like good numbers. I think you're more likely to get the red sport for $20,750 than the white GT with nav for $23k, but good luck! I wouldn't be surprised if he gives you that number or slightly higher on the red sport.
whoa whoa whoa...gmac has great advice, but the best advice is to do this via email.
they are TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT GAMES - internet vs sales floor.
the internet department is going to offer you a deal without you going into the dealership and without even negotiating.
5 minutes with an internet manager gets rid of 2 hours worth of price haggling with the sales person/floor manager/sales manager
email all of the dealerships and request quotes from every ******* site out there. you will soon have the closest dealerships in a bidding war for your business!!!!!!!!!!!!
edit - i have read the emails now, it appears that you are in connection via email. i wish there were other dealers around you so you could email them as well...
good luck
they are TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT GAMES - internet vs sales floor.
the internet department is going to offer you a deal without you going into the dealership and without even negotiating.
5 minutes with an internet manager gets rid of 2 hours worth of price haggling with the sales person/floor manager/sales manager
email all of the dealerships and request quotes from every ******* site out there. you will soon have the closest dealerships in a bidding war for your business!!!!!!!!!!!!
edit - i have read the emails now, it appears that you are in connection via email. i wish there were other dealers around you so you could email them as well...
good luck
according to edmunds.com, the 2008.5 sport is 21,641 invoice incl destination, and the GT with nav is 24,917.
those are both very good prices, imo. you can probably get them to go a bit lower, or get them to throw in mats/wheel locks.
Got this response from the dealer:
"Both are 2008 models. I understand but my cost doesn't change with your preferences. I'm giving her all she's got captain. The white one is absolutely fine!"
I understand his position, and I see that these might be good prices ($21,750 for a red base Sport and $24,990 for a white GT with nav).
I'm a horrible negotiator and really bad at car buying so this has been a great help!
I'm thinking either ask for extras on the red sport (mats/wheel locks/ipod integration/etc.) or just tell them no thanks.
I'm still up for advice. Anyone?
"Both are 2008 models. I understand but my cost doesn't change with your preferences. I'm giving her all she's got captain. The white one is absolutely fine!"
I understand his position, and I see that these might be good prices ($21,750 for a red base Sport and $24,990 for a white GT with nav).
I'm a horrible negotiator and really bad at car buying so this has been a great help!
I'm thinking either ask for extras on the red sport (mats/wheel locks/ipod integration/etc.) or just tell them no thanks.
I'm still up for advice. Anyone?
dandydaniel
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
At this point, you've got yourself in a dig. You've told the dealer what you are looking to pay over the internet, the last thing left to do is walk back in and start from scratch. I bought my GT without nav for $1000 under invoice but that varies by region. I would go back in, and tell them straight up what you are looking to pay at that exact moment and then subtract maybe 2-300 from it. For the cwp with navi, I would say that $23,750 is a hell of a deal (seeing as how I got the non navi for only $1,000 less). Walk in and just lay it on the table "I'm willing to pay $23,500 right now this minute and give you a sale". He probably wont take that still but work your way slowly up from there. Walk into the dealership with a price cap in your mind i.e. if the price is anything over XX,XXX amount I am walking.
Like others have noted, walking on a deal is a very powerful tool but when I was attempting to purchase my car, I initially walked on my $22,740 price which was there on the table (hoping for them to bring it down a bit) but as I walked, the salesman just walked the other way, didnt even say a word to me. I went home and stayed home for a good 3-4 hours and then eventually bit. So I mean you could attempt the walk tactic if you dont like the price but you might end up looking like a jackass if you do come back and buy for the same price they had on the table. Hope this helps and good luck with everything (oh yeah, they will most likely not even give you $7,000 for your p5 because for kicks and giggles I told them that I might be interested in trading in my 05' Accord v6 coupe with 14k miles [KBB was $16,880] they offered me $10,000 and then even after a whole DAYs worth of haggling with the used car manager, all I could squeeze out was $12,800 for my accord)
Like others have noted, walking on a deal is a very powerful tool but when I was attempting to purchase my car, I initially walked on my $22,740 price which was there on the table (hoping for them to bring it down a bit) but as I walked, the salesman just walked the other way, didnt even say a word to me. I went home and stayed home for a good 3-4 hours and then eventually bit. So I mean you could attempt the walk tactic if you dont like the price but you might end up looking like a jackass if you do come back and buy for the same price they had on the table. Hope this helps and good luck with everything (oh yeah, they will most likely not even give you $7,000 for your p5 because for kicks and giggles I told them that I might be interested in trading in my 05' Accord v6 coupe with 14k miles [KBB was $16,880] they offered me $10,000 and then even after a whole DAYs worth of haggling with the used car manager, all I could squeeze out was $12,800 for my accord)
