A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor

[vindication]

it'll be interesting to see how much you can boost until spark becomes a major issue. you gonna contact nick for his new ignition system?

 

[TurfBurn]

I've done pretty much all the stuff you have done, with one big difference. I did almost all of it with my own two hands. Of course we won't know if that was a bad thing until it actually runs. lol

Oh I ended up putting a .040" shim under the pressure relief spring in the oil pump. Of course I don't have a permenant pressure gauge so I will have to hook up my tester one to see what pressures I get.

Umm... every thing other than the machining has been done by my own two hands.. and the machining I leave to the professionals because a) they have the equipment, and b) I don't want mistakes on this build.

The only downside to shimming that pump is it may blow out your seals... the books (race motor building manuals... 3 different ones) I have state that you shouldn't ever push oil pressure past about 75 psi even on an 8500 rpm race car. I plan to shim until I hit about 70-72 under higher rpm full throttle conditions.

I have the Microtech as well, so I have the stock ECU out of the loop whether it is better or worse I don't know.. and then E316G turbo which is smaller than most people are running (but bigger than you I believe)... But yeah I think we have done pretty much all the same tricks.. I'm going to be controlling my VICS indepndently so I can determine when it kicks on or not.. I'm going to burn up some dyno runs determining when it is best to open it on my setup as well.

 

[TurfBurn]

it'll be interesting to see how much you can boost until spark becomes a major issue. you gonna contact nick for his new ignition system?

Nope... I'm going to be using the system Microtech builds... very cool... results in me having Bosch coils on each individual cylinder controlled from a central module. I'll get rid of the wasted spark system and be able to punch in even more energy into each shot and keep it through the higher rpm's.. I believe it is a 40 or 42,000 volt system.

 

[changedman]

hopefully you dont lose as much coolant as i did when we tried to fire her up and noticed a leak

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

"I'm going to be controlling my VICS indepndently so I can determine when it kicks on or not.. I'm going to burn up some dyno runs determining when it is best to open it on my setup as well."

I have to get a pic to you. Your gonna love my new "VICS solenoid". I'll take a pic. tommorow.

I doubt that it will push the pressure too far, but I won't know till I try.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

[TurfBurn]

hopefully you dont lose as much coolant as i did when we tried to fire her up and noticed a leak

Where did you leak?

I've tried to be REALLY meticulous about seals... My fuel lines have been checked a number of times .

 

[TurfBurn]

"I'm going to be controlling my VICS indepndently so I can determine when it kicks on or not.. I'm going to burn up some dyno runs determining when it is best to open it on my setup as well."

I have to get a pic to you. Your gonna love my new "VICS solenoid". I'll take a pic. tommorow.

<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> I doubt that it will push the pressure too far, but I won't know till I try.

I'll be interested

I'm wiring the stock solenoid onto a relay that is then driven by the Microtech. I thought about making it a toggle switch in the car but decided against it

 

[changedman]

Where did you leak?

I've tried to be REALLY meticulous about seals... My fuel lines have been checked a number of times .

beau made me a custom lower radiator pipe, and the hoses were not tight, thats all

but after it was tightened, we started it up, and damn, the coolant was getting HOTTTT fast and i turned the hot air on (remedy the problem) but it was COLD! problem was low coolant. I never knew a huge lack of coolant would result in blowing cold air, but it makes sense, i just never thought of it.

 

[TurfBurn]

low coolant can also result in seriously scuffing your pistons up too... air pockets and cavitation too... other than a major failure air pockets are the biggest thing I'm worried about on inital startup/break in.

 

[TurfBurn]

I might make custom plates and cut my hood and drop in Evo style vents as well at some point.. .but that is one of many future projects

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Big ole air pocket. Lucky you don't have a car with a rear heat exchanger (MPV's etc.). You have to park it on a hill of more than 40* and hope to god it will come out.

 

[changedman]

are you going to throw synthetic in (wow, expensive) from the start? or break in on dino oil?

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

synthetic is a no no for break in.

 

[changedman]

reasons?

 

[TurfBurn]

synthetic is a no no for break in.

Opposite of what I've read and been told. So I am curious as to your thoughts there as well!

 

[TurfBurn]

are you going to throw synthetic in (wow, expensive) from the start? or break in on dino oil?

as of right now that is the plan.. initial break in on 10-30 Mobil 1 and then after that 10-50 Mobil 1 for general running unless I am having temp and pressure issues then I'll adjust as needed.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

In general terms, it is too slippery. It cannot promote good ring sealing or bearing set-in because it is too good at what it does. The general rule that you shouldn't put synthetic in until 2000miles still applies to modern engines.

 

[vindication]

isn't like a straight 30 supposed to be used for a couple hundered miles or so?

 

[changedman]

i broke mine in on dino oil for the sole reason of COST! I dont like to throw away $22 in oil twice the same week

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

30 weight non detergent oil is what I break every engine in with.