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- 2001 Mazda MP3
go GET IT DONE ALREADY!
A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor
- Thread starter TurfBurn
- Start date
The machining bill HURT... it was 3300 with the cost of 8 exhaust valves... ouch 
. The total project is pushing to just shy of 10k now . BUT... it'll be awesome... as long as it never blows up or falls apart LOL. If it makes the power and runs smoothly it'll be worth every penny 
. And I did get 3 free dyno pulls out of it too
. The total project is pushing to just shy of 10k now . BUT... it'll be awesome... as long as it never blows up or falls apart LOL. If it makes the power and runs smoothly it'll be worth every penny . And I did get 3 free dyno pulls out of it too - :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
yeah, my machining was about 2000 totaled up. im shelling out more now for head work
Yeah I did the head work and the intake manifold on that... here is the list:
Clean all flash and polish main webs
Port and polish cylinder head
Port and polish turbo manifold
Ferrea Exhaust Valves
Full valve job (3 angle plus radiused exhaust)
Align Hone block
Crank and rotating assembly balance
Cylinder bore and hone 10 thou over
Repair turbo mani crack
Lighten and resurface flywheel
Port and polish oil pump
Resurface Head
Magnaflux cams and block
Clearance rod/piston assemblies
Balance pistons and Rods
Polish crank journals
Piston clearancing/check
Intake Manifold Port and Polish
Clearance and modify cam to valve lash
Alter turbo clocking
Backcut of intake valves
Lots of stuff
Clean all flash and polish main webs
Port and polish cylinder head
Port and polish turbo manifold
Ferrea Exhaust Valves
Full valve job (3 angle plus radiused exhaust)
Align Hone block
Crank and rotating assembly balance
Cylinder bore and hone 10 thou over
Repair turbo mani crack
Lighten and resurface flywheel
Port and polish oil pump
Resurface Head
Magnaflux cams and block
Clearance rod/piston assemblies
Balance pistons and Rods
Polish crank journals
Piston clearancing/check
Intake Manifold Port and Polish
Clearance and modify cam to valve lash
Alter turbo clocking
Backcut of intake valves
Lots of stuff
Last edited:
tekkie said:
It is ceramic based block paint.. the machine shop did it for me.. they actually use a Krylon paint. It is rated for like 500 or better...
I decided to paint it because it I have a whole blue and yellow thing going on in the engine bay... so
. Yeah, being this close makes me super antsy, the ETA is probably next week sometime... may not get it done this week, but should get close!
Later,
Steve
I dunno if this is it or not, http://www.krylonindustrial.com/ind...s/session_id/17c87b653d4faa9bc4054896f184ec79
thats what I had planned to use, its probably the same thing although it does not mention ceramic on it
looks good though
thats what I had planned to use, its probably the same thing although it does not mention ceramic on it
looks good though
tekkie said:I dunno if this is it or not, http://www.krylonindustrial.com/index.html/screen/engine_paints/session_id/17c87b653d4faa9bc4054896f184ec79
thats what I had planned to use, its probably the same thing although it does not mention ceramic on it
looks good though
Yeah, that looks like it'd be the stuff!
So, we had a few setbacks here and there.. broke the plastic piece in the transmission when I had it apart for some work... then I found that import performance shipped me the wrong timing belt.. then I discovered none of my fittings worked on my turbo for the feed line... then mounting the AEM FPR on the motor has proven difficult... also had some trouble mounting a couple of the oil and water temp gauges... we've gotten all of these things sorted out. All that has to be done now is slap the transmission on the motor and swing it into the bay. Then I have to do some wiring and some house cleaning (aka vacating all the old fuel from the lines and tank) and then she'll be ready to fire up. I'm hoping to do all that Friday into Saturday. Should be driving on Saturday. I'll take quite a few pictures of the process and the motor (I even polished the water jacket lines to a chrome finish... ooh ) and give lots of descriptions, torque values etc etc... so lots is coming, I'm just really busy and tied up with all the crazy issues we came across and the like.
Later!
Steve
) and give lots of descriptions, torque values etc etc... so lots is coming, I'm just really busy and tied up with all the crazy issues we came across and the like. Later!
Steve
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
run to napa and get the timing belt? its only like... $50? i think? maybe it was 70 cant remember. i trust you're also replacing the other belts?
what gauges u have? oil pres/aux temp/boost/WB/?
what gauges u have? oil pres/aux temp/boost/WB/?
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
take a vid of the first startup
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
I think you should wait till next saturday, I'm hoping to get mine in then. Of course I haven't even put the head on yet...
pdhaudio83 said:
I did.. it was like 50 bucks about.. I did replace all the other belts and every seal on the motor as well... trust me every penny that can be spent pretty much has been spent... I honestly dont' know if anyone has as much stuff done to their motor as I do... DDogg is probably close, but honestly i have EVERYTHING done.. Other than my ignition system everything has been replaced... and I haven't done billet main caps yet... but that's about it...
Gauges:
JandS safeguard/knockmeter
Boost
EGT
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Oil Emergency Pressure Switch
Fuel Pressure in the engine bay
AFR
vindication said:
Yes and no... we'll probably video all that... but keep in mind.. I have NO tune for this motor... It has to be oil primed before it can be truly started... then I have to do a ring seat before I can actually let it run normally... And the idle has never been adjusted on this configuration and with my new port velocities... so I'm MAJORLY shooting in the dark... odds of it actually starting in the first 5 or 10 tries is pretty much 0.
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
so get a tripod and an extra battery and a few tapes
I'm also going to prove for everyone if you actually need a new radiator and whether or not you need the oil coolers. There are very specific temps that those are all supposed to run in, and I'm going to guess that the car gets pretty close on it's own. The one thing I do want to get changed out when I can is a lower temp thermostat... probably something around 140F. (Ideal coolant temp is about 70-75 with as high as 90C being ok).
vindication said:so get a tripod and an extra battery and a few tapes
I have a buddy with a digital camera who says he'll video it, and my dyno runs in a few weeks... the only thing I don't know about for the dyno runs is what boost I'll be able to push out to because of the ignition system.
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
TurfBurn said:I did.. it was like 50 bucks about.. I did replace all the other belts and every seal on the motor as well... trust me every penny that can be spent pretty much has been spent... I honestly dont' know if anyone has as much stuff done to their motor as I do... DDogg is probably close, but honestly i have EVERYTHING done.. Other than my ignition system everything has been replaced... and I haven't done billet main caps yet... but that's about it...
Gauges:
JandS safeguard/knockmeter
Boost
EGT
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Oil Emergency Pressure Switch
Fuel Pressure in the engine bay
AFR
I've done pretty much all the stuff you have done, with one big difference. I did almost all of it with my own two hands. Of course we won't know if that was a bad thing until it actually runs. lol
Oh I ended up putting a .040" shim under the pressure relief spring in the oil pump. Of course I don't have a permenant pressure gauge so I will have to hook up my tester one to see what pressures I get.