4-Channel amps

[Poseur]

you DO NOT want the D4 setup at all, check the voice coil configuration you want to run the + of one voice coil to the - of the other. You shoudl then run your amp outputs to the remaining spots.

Anywhich way, dimming is realistically a part of life with upgraded stereo. Would you rather things sound good and deal with a bit of dimming when you've got things cranked up, or make a large compromise in sound just so your lights don't dim? heck they likely dim when you roll your windows up and down, yes? It's not a sign of electrical problems, it takes a very slight difference in voltage to make a visible difference in light intensity.

 

[Kid Red]

That's how I have it wired. + and - straight from the amp to the termial set one. Then the second set terminals wired together. According to cardomain.com - http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=dual 2 ohms
that makes the D2 2 ohm.
If I have the D4, according to- http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=dual 4 ohms

then I'd be at 4 ohms. So why don't I want the D4 version?

The surround is rubber, I got the speaker yesterday. I'll see how it is tomorrow, but if not I'd want a new one.

Poseur- the lights did not dim with the PPI 4 10" ohm sub. I know the ID8 is better, needs more power, but if the ID8 D4 is as good as the PPI, I'd be happy. I just feel ghetto in a family car with dimming headlights, dashboard lights, etc, everything dims when the volume is kinda up, but not blasting.

 

[Poseur]

Take a closer look. a dual 2ohm sub is incapable of giving you a 2ohm load. with dual 2 you can either do 1 or 4 with a dual 4ohm you'll be at either 2 or 8.

As those guys have said, all thing sbeing equal, your ID8D2 should be at 4ohms, if your other sub is a 4ohm load, there should be absolutely no difference in power levels.

 

[Kid Red]

I did. Ah, it would be 4 ohms if I had 2 speakers, 8 ohms if a single speaker, I missed that. Damn, so I'm stuck with the dimming lights? What about a less power hungry 8"? The lights thing just really bugs me.

 

[chuyler1]

The only way you'd see a difference between subwoofers would be if the impedence was different. Do you have a multimeter?

Since you are seeing a difference, the only explanation is that a) your PPI sub is actually 8ohms, or b) you wired the ID sub incorrectly.

 

[1sty]

THe onyl other reason is becuase you noticed no light dimming with the 10" when you were only using the left channel of the amp becuase the wires were mixed up on the right channel. Now you have the wiring correctly and are using both the channels together which also drops each channels seen resitance so your are consuming 4 times the power you were before.

If the the light dimming really bothers you, go get a 1 farad cap and see if that helps you out any. It won't help by much, but it might be enough for you. Get a standard, high quality adn well known brand cap. Caps are either slightly functional or completely useless depending on the one you buy. Also, upgrade the ground wiring in the engine compartment from the battery, to the body, and to the engine.

 

[Kid Red]

No multimeter, not sure what that is. THe PPI has a 4 ohm sticker on it. I have the ID wired correctly, confirmed with your diagram and again with the cardomain diagram.

I guess I can turn down both gains a tad more, that would at least minimize the dimming lights to times when I'm alone jamming.

 

[Kid Red]

chuyler1- As for FG, how do I approach the front baffle? The panel is curved and the speaker/baffle will bee at least an inch taller then the opening meaning the baffle will have to be on the outside of the panel overlapping it. My issue is the panel is curved, and how would it attach the inside of the compartment?

Say I FG the inside shell of the compartment, ending at the edge opening. How do I then do the square baffle so that it follows the curve of the panel and connects to the inside section to make one complete airtight enclosure?

hehe, already getting intimidated because I don't have a precise idea of how to do it ion my head yet.

 

[Kid Red]

Ah, I think I see how. I came across http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/fleecing.htm

So, basically, tape off the compartment, going as deep as I can-if I go to deep inside, I won't be able to remove it once it hardens. This will follow the contour of the panel if I overlap the outside edge by an inch or two. Then, take it out, and put the rings onto it. Then, wrap the fabric around everything. At least I think I have the basic steps in my head. I think I might buy a router because I want clean edges on the rings.

 

[chuyler1]

A router saves lots of headaches. No matter how steady you are with a jig saw, you will always end up with either a hole that is too loose or too tight around the woofer and you'll end up sanding for hours trying to get the right fit (or starting from scratch).

You'll need something like this...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=365-250

There are two types of routers, fixed bit and plunge bit. The plunge has the advantage of not requiring an extra pilot hole for the bit, however, some plunge mechanisms are not very sturdy (often cheap ones) and the bit will wable a bit as you sink into the wood. I just bought a cheap fixed bit router and a set of bits and it has been working great.

 

[Kid Red]

Awesome, thanks. What about a rotozip? I guess thats would work but no beveled edges, etc. I also saw a Dremmel to cut the corners and edges. Nice way to add to my tool collection

 

[chuyler1]

I've never used a rotozip but it does have an available circle jig. You might want to search google for "rotozip" and "speaker box building" to see if others have had success with it.

The dremel simply doesn't have enough HP cut through 3/4" MDF at a reasonable rate. I'm sure it will do it, but you'll have to take it slow.

 

[Kid Red]

I meant for the Dremmel to be used to cut the edges of the fiberglass to get a nice edge. As opposed to using a table saw to cut it.

I'd probably get more long term use out of the router, but I'll look into the roto zip more.

 

[chuyler1]

I've always used a jig saw to cut through fiberglass. I think both the rotozip and the dremel could cut through a thin layer of fiberglass without any problems. I would not recommend using a table saw to do that.

 

[the tortoise]

A router saves lots of headaches. No matter how steady you are with a jig saw, you will always end up with either a hole that is too loose or too tight around the woofer and you'll end up sanding for hours trying to get the right fit (or starting from scratch).

How important is it to have the hole be an exact circle?

I was under the impression the sub was supported by the screws and not the circumference of the hole. I understand that if it's too wide the material will be weakened at that point, but if we're only talking 0.5 cm or so, does it matter?

 

[Kid Red]

How important is it to have the hole be an exact circle?

I was under the impression the sub was supported by the screws and not the circumference of the hole. I understand that if it's too wide the material will be weakened at that point, but if we're only talking 0.5 cm or so, does it matter?

I think he means perfect ascetically. In order to get a perfect circle you need a router as it's nearly impossible to follow the pencil marks perfectly.

I agree. I don't want my hard work to look sloppy because of a wobbly circle.

 

[the tortoise]

But you won't even see that wobble circle. It'll be covered by the sub.

 

[chuyler1]

It's not even asthetics. You have less than a 1/4" leway to work with. If you are too small at one point the sub won't fit in. If you are too large at one point you won't have enough wood/mdf to drill a hole into. I have a pretty steady hand and I never seemed to get it right...so I bought a router with a circle jig.

 

[the tortoise]

SNAP!

I'll have to track down a router then.

 

[Kid Red]

But you won't even see that wobble circle. It'll be covered by the sub.

Ah, I thought he was talking about the circle for the outside of the sub, the second layer, that the sub would be surrounded by. That doesn't get hidden, it's always in plain view if you inset the sub into it like I intend to do.