2015 CX-5 Transmission Lifespan?

I will be looking at a 2015 CX5 for my daughter tomorrow. 96,000 miles. Transmission recently rebuilt. If the trans was rebuilt, can we expect it to last a long time or will it crap out early like the original?
 
I will be looking at a 2015 CX5 for my daughter tomorrow. 96,000 miles. Transmission recently rebuilt. If the trans was rebuilt, can we expect it to last a long time? or, will it crap out early like the original?
Depends on who rebuilt it...and how it's been driven and how well it's been maintained since.

You could get another 40 to 50 k or you could get 150 k.
Unless it was really shoddy work, at the point the rebuild starts to fall apart, say over 180k/200 k, your gonna have other maintenance items and or failures to fix at that point as well.
Keep in mind it is an 8 year old car already and as long as it's priced fairly...
If possible, ask for copies of the receipts of the rebuild to see who (individual or company) did the rebuild and find out their quality of workmanship by looking at online reviews.
Imo, if this is in snowbelt, I'd worry more about the frame rusting out in 4 or 5 years before the rebuilt tranny gives out.

Imo, the used car market needs to stabilize. People have irrationally inflated and fed the market by buying overpriced vehicles. Better to get loan and buy a brand new car, a 3 year old CPO or a cheap beater car ( cheap beaters used to be $500 but appears now maybe $4000 to $5000.)

Lastly if the frame is in relatively good shape, and you purchase, then you should fluid film it.
And don't forget to have your mechanic preinspect/ check the vehicle out before purchase.

Again, unless it was a really bad rebuild, the tranny may outlast the frame and possibly the OEM engine.
 
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I will be looking at a 2015 CX5 for my daughter tomorrow. 96,000 miles. Transmission recently rebuilt. If the trans was rebuilt, can we expect it to last a long time or will it crap out early like the original?
Sorry to say that, if a person’s intention is to get the transmission fixed in order to sell the car, he’d find the cheapest way to do it. The rebuild quality would be suspicious.

Like Jack Rabbit said above, try to find the rebuild invoice and see if the company is a national chain with a good warranty, or if it’s just an independent shop offers no warranty.
 
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Mine has 101k and I tow heavy once or twice a year.

There seems to have been a rash of tranny failures in the first few years, but Mazda apparently got that fixed.
I thought most were fixed under warranty.
 
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Depends on who rebuilt it...and how it's been driven and how well it's been maintained since.

You could get another 40 to 50 k or you could get 150 k.
Unless it was really shoddy work, at the point the rebuild starts to fall apart, say over 180k/200 k, your gonna have other maintenance items and or failures to fix at that point as well.
Keep in mind it is an 8 year old car already and as long as it's priced fairly...
If possible, ask for copies of the receipts of the rebuild to see who (individual or company) did the rebuild and find out their quality of workmanship by looking at online reviews.
Imo, if this is in snowbelt, I'd worry more about the frame rusting out in 4 or 5 years before the rebuilt tranny gives out.

Imo, the used car market needs to stabilize. People have irrationally inflated and fed the market by buying overpriced vehicles. Better to get loan and buy a brand new car, a 3 year old CPO or a cheap beater car ( cheap beaters used to be $500 but appears now maybe $4000 to $5000.)

Lastly if the frame is in relatively good shape, and you purchase, then you should fluid film it.
And don't forget to have your mechanic preinspect/ check the vehicle out before purchase.

Again, unless it was a really bad rebuild, the tranny may outlast the frame and possibly the OEM engine.
Thanks for the feed back. Jack. After studying the vin information, it turns out that it had spent many years in Michigan. When I do look at it, I'll be taking a close look at the chassis. They are asking 12.5K, which seems to be low end of the crazy price range today. I have two older Explorers to sell in the same crazy maket. I should get close to 5.5K for the pair. So, pricing is what it is.
 
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Thanks to others that responded. Unable to see the car, yet. But carfax reports it as a transaxle replacement, not transmission as reported by seller. In either case, that sort of failure seems to be much sooner than one would expect. Work was done by a reputablle shop, So, we will see.
 
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Thanks for the feed back. Jack. After studying the vin information, it turns out that it had spent many years in Michigan. When I do look at it, I'll be taking a close look at the chassis. They are asking 12.5K, which seems to be low end of the crazy price range today. I have two older Explorers to sell in the same crazy maket. I should get close to 5.5K for the pair. So, pricing is what it is.
Just remember.

Alot of new vehicles OEM frames/unibodys may last 5 to 8 years(they have some initial corrosion protection from the factory) before rust starts.

However, this does wear off and the vehicle will start rusting.

My past vehicles included :

a Toyota with ziebart rubber-tar coating which both engine and body be lasted 14 + years,

a Ford that wasn't coated and frame rusted out before the powertrain at 13-14 year mark.

I started yearly coating my 3 year used Mazda with fluid film as soon as purchased so frame can hopefully last as long as powertrain (hopefully won't have the mazda cracked cylinder head problems).

I highly suggest to fluid film the underbody or find a shop that will do it for you.
 
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Thanks to others that responded. Unable to see the car, yet. But carfax reports it as a transaxle replacement, not transmission as reported by seller. In either case, that sort of failure seems to be much sooner than one would expect. Work was done by a reputablle shop, So, we will see.
With front wheel drive, the transaxle is the transmission and differential assembly together as a unit as opposed to rear wheel drive where the 'axle' (differential and axles -- commonly called the rear-end) and transmission are joined by a drive shaft.
 
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Knock on wood. Especially if you’d never changed the ATF ⋯

I do a drain and fill every 30k, and drop the pan and change the filter every 60.
I have to wonder if the company that rebuilt the trans used the proper trans fluid as recommended by Mazda (FZ)?

Very, very good question. It's extremely important to know the answer to this too, because if they used the wrong stuff, it ain't going to last.
 
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I would stay far away from a car with a rebuilt transmission at this mileage. I have a 2015 Mazda 6 2.5L with the 6AT transmission. Almost 180k miles. The transmission pan has been dropped 4x. Clean filter, magnet and pan bottom = properly functioning solenoids and a strong healthy transmission. It could use a drain and fill since the fluid is a bit dirty but the bottom of the pan is almost perfectly clean. The solenoids and possibly valve body would need to be replaced at some point down the road, but I expect this auto to be able to double it's current mileage without any rebuild. Abused drivetrain as a new car, or some sort of defect would be the only way to explain the need for a rebuilt at such low mileage, assuming transmission pan was regularly dropped and serviced as needed.
 
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Are we supposed to change the ATF in the Skyactive engine or not? I was told when I bought my 2015 CX-5 last year from a Mazda dealer that the ATF in a Skyactive car is a lifetime fluid and doesn't need to be changed unless there's a problem. Is that really true, or should I do some preventive maintenance and do a drain-and-fill a couple times? I just crossed 100k miles last month. I bought it used at 60k a couple years ago, and I don't know the previous service history.
 
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Are we supposed to change the ATF in the Skyactive engine or not? I was told when I bought my 2015 CX-5 last year from a Mazda dealer that the ATF in a Skyactive car is a lifetime fluid and doesn't need to be changed unless there's a problem. Is that really true, or should I do some preventive maintenance and do a drain-and-fill a couple times? I just crossed 100k miles last month. I bought it used at 60k a couple years ago, and I don't know the previous service history.
Theres is mixed opinions on these new vehicles. I've usually flushed at 60 or 70 k miles but always tried to go no more than 80,000 miles on past vehicles before flush.

I've seen some posted pics of the supposed lifetime fluid with metal flakes in it, most likely from the breakin period or possible tranny defect. While the fluid itself may last a lifetime and still have additives and lubrication quality, it's still gonna have particles and possible metal floating around that could damage the tranny.
Companies nowadays want repeat business and dont want things to last. Leaving the old fluid in could mean that transmission doesn't last as long as it could. Good for the car market, bad for you.

Imo, best to get that old stuff out to help prevent any damage.

Further you get past 100 k, better to not change or only replace half( one drain and fill should be a half change)

if your gonna change it then do it now and dont wait any longer. Replace half now and half in a few months. Make sure you get the right fluid.
 
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Theres is mixed opinions on these new vehicles. I've usually flushed at 60 or 70 k miles but always tried to go no more than 80,000 miles on past vehicles before flush.

I've seen some posted pics of the supposed lifetime fluid with metal flakes in it, most likely from the breakin period or possible tranny defect. While the fluid itself may last a lifetime and still have additives and lubrication quality, it's still gonna have particles and possible metal floating around that could damage the tranny.
Companies nowadays want repeat business and dont want things to last. Leaving the old fluid in could mean that transmission doesn't last as long as it could. Good for the car market, bad for you.

Imo, best to get that old stuff out to help prevent any damage.

Further you get past 100 k, better to not change or only replace half( one drain and fill should be a half change)

if your gonna change it then do it now and dont wait any longer. Replace half now and half in a few months. Make sure you get the right fluid.
Thanks. I just spent the past hour reading a million different threads about what ATF fluid to use. I recently went through lots of research about Honda ATF when I replaced the transmission in my old Honda, so I'm aware of the differences between brands and types regarding viscosity and additives. But it seems like there's way less straightforward info about Mazda transmissions compared to Honda when it comes to fluids. Most people seem to recommend only the Mazda FZ fluid, which is expensive, but I'm happy to use that if it's the preferred fluid. Looks like I should also drop the pan and change the filter the first time too?
 
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Thanks. I just spent the past hour reading a million different threads about what ATF fluid to use. I recently went through lots of research about Honda ATF when I replaced the transmission in my old Honda, so I'm aware of the differences between brands and types regarding viscosity and additives. But it seems like there's way less straightforward info about Mazda transmissions compared to Honda when it comes to fluids. Most people seem to recommend only the Mazda FZ fluid, which is expensive, but I'm happy to use that if it's the preferred fluid. Looks like I should also drop the pan and change the filter the first time too?
Depends on your comfort level.

Pan drop and filter change is always best but these mazdas dont have traditional gaskets (which i'm used to using).

Instead you need to use mazda(or an aftermarket) gasket maker. For me its not my skillset and if you dont do it just right you could end up with leaks and a do-over. I prefer the old pre-manufactured gaskets.

As expensive as lubricants have becomes, especially the mazda FZ ATF, would rather do a drain & fill first or just take it to local mechanic for him to drop the pan.

I've met some mechanics who dont even want to do these jobs and would rather stick to the easy stuff

There are posts with instructions and pics on pan-drop and gaskets maker if you decide to do so.
 
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Are we supposed to change the ATF in the Skyactive engine or not? I was told when I bought my 2015 CX-5 last year from a Mazda dealer that the ATF in a Skyactive car is a lifetime fluid and doesn't need to be changed unless there's a problem. Is that really true, or should I do some preventive maintenance and do a drain-and-fill a couple times? I just crossed 100k miles last month. I bought it used at 60k a couple years ago, and I don't know the previous service history.
Good for the lifetime of the *warranty*, not the lifetime of the car. Ask any petroleum engineer: there is no such things as a "lifetime" oil.

I change my fluid every 30k miles, drop the pan and change the filter every 60k. I also only use Mazda OEM transmission fluid, none of that "universal" stuff, ever.
 
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I've still got half a tube of fresh Hondabond HT RTV from when I did the rear main seal of my Pilot during the transmission swap. Think I can use that for sealing the Mazda pan, or is gray permatex a better choice?
 
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