2010 speed 3 faster than 08

[daonly1around]

Show me, please. I'm skeptical. For me, it does not matter, since I run a true CAI. But for many this would be important. True cold air to the intake air box? Pix please.

+1 - I want to see this myself.

Ya, there is a scoop to the air box?

i haven't seen in person, i'm going by all the articles and video reviews i've heard and read. The area the first gen use for both the intake and intercooler, is now solely used for just the intake. The area in the front grille can now all go directly to the intake, which allows for higher velocity air, so to speak, for the intake at higher speeds, which why the quarter mile time is higher, even though the 0-60 time is slower

 

[WIMSPWI]

its a newer car....plain and simple. both of my parents own 3's. moms has about 20,000 less miles, both same setup and hers pulls harder.

 

[8.5MS3]

I will let you know thursday. we have a local Mazdaspeed meet every week. there are a few 2nd gens I will take pics of the engine bay.....

 

[Nliiitend1]

i haven't seen in person, i'm going by all the articles and video reviews i've heard and read. The area the first gen use for both the intake and intercooler, is now solely used for just the intake. The area in the front grille can now all go directly to the intake, which allows for higher velocity air, so to speak, for the intake at higher speeds, which why the quarter mile time is higher, even though the 0-60 time is slower

This variance could just as easily be accounted for by the gearing changes, amongst other things... (dunno)

 

[MSMS3]

I will let you know thursday. we have a local Mazdaspeed meet every week. there are a few 2nd gens I will take pics of the engine bay.....

Take some pix, please, of the underside of the hood, so we can see the ducting and where that air goes. Here are the only pictures I could find on the net that might answer this question.

One is a close up of the underside of the hood scoop, but it does not show the areas around it to see if air can get over to the area in front of the battery box where the stock air box is located. It does show some strange looking oval slots that seem to send air out of the IC area to the rest of the engine bay. I'm not sure I'd want to lose that airflow to the IC, but it is interesting looking.

Another shows the front of the car with the the top grill slot very much lower than on gen 1 cars and in the direct pathway of the hot radiator rather than the engine bay.

The third shows the engine bay with the hood up. There are some small slots at the very front top edge of the engine bay, both on the left and the right that might let some air from outside into the engine bay, but I don't know what is above them on the hood.

All very interesting. All perhaps just academic in comparison to early design. But certainly different.

 

[02stang951]

just got back from vacation for a long weekend and drove both and the 10 still pulls harder what i did notice is that boost seems to come up about 500 or so rpm faster, could be part of why it feels faster especially in daily driving, also checked for boost leaks and such and every thing seems to be normal, maybe as it beaks in a lil more the difference will go away mine has about 5k on it and my dads 10 only has about 400 or so.

 

[MSMS3]

OP: Spend $30 bucks on a cheap stopwatch, and make some timed runs in each car under identical conditions. Make sure you are going the same direction on the same road at the same location. Make several runs and average them. Cheap and way more objective than butt dyno "feel." Hard numbers tell the story.

 

[8.5MS3]

even easier way, do a single gear pull from one speed to the next, say 40-90 in 4th, with a stopwatch and both cars equal amounts of fuel (quantity, not a full tank since they may be different) whichever takes less time is quicker. a single gear pull takes shift times out of the equation. also be sure to allow the cars to idle for the same amount of time so any heatsoaking is negligible

 

[02stang951]

OP: Spend $30 bucks on a cheap stopwatch, and make some timed runs in each car under identical conditions. Make sure you are going the same direction on the same road at the same location. Make several runs and average them. Cheap and way more objective than butt dyno "feel." Hard numbers tell the story.

i was actually thinking about doing that today haha hell if i can get to 60 in around 6 sec ill be happy enough its not so much that his is faster just mine is getting slower if that makes sence

 

[MSMS3]

0-60 runs are very difficult to time consistently in our cars. I'm not saying they are not valuable, they are, but you would need to do a number of them and average. You have to shift twice (you can't get ot 60 in second gear), watch the revs (shift at 5,500), have launch issues with fwd and selection of ideal shift point, have to be consistent with clutch management and shifting technique and do all of this, expecially the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts in about 5 seconds while also fumbling with your stopwatch. For many mainly stock cars, the 2-3 shift is very difficult to do quickly under full engine load. So, 0-60 times become more about technique and consistency than about actual power production, especially since the ECU will not let you get full power anyway for most of that run -- see below.

The single gear pull in 4th from about 3,000 rpm to 5,500 rpm is a good idea. Also a run beginning in 3rd at about 50 mph, going WOT, starting the stopwatch at 60 mph, holding WOT shift at 5,500 rpm into 4th and then 5th, and go to 100 or 105, yields good results. The power shifts will not hurt you going into 4th and 5th - you have a rev limiter and the clutch will take it far better than doing clutch dumps or slipping the clutch on 0-60 runs. The WOT shifts can be done very consistently. Repeat and average.

Remember that your ECU holds power back in 1st and 2nd and that the electronics are different on the two models in that regard, so that's why I think timed power runs from 60 on up make more sense if you want to know if your producing more "pull" in comparing the two cars or want to know if your own baseline is changing. By the time you get to 3rd gear, there is no more ECU nanny hold back of power.

BTW: if you think your power is down, make sure your air filter is clean and check your plugs, depending on mileage you have on the car. When you encounter a drop in performance check the simple little things first.

 

[RC08MS3]

its a newer car....plain and simple. both of my parents own 3's. moms has about 20,000 less miles, both same setup and hers pulls harder.

this is not a debate about a 3, but a MS3.

 

[02stang951]

Ok well today i did a 0-60 and had my friend record it. out of the two times i did it my best was about 6.4 sec. i dont think that's to far off at all considering it was about 45 degrees and there was a lot of wheel spin/hop in 1st and 2nd i also had a 200 lbs passenger so I'm coming to the conclusion that my butt dyno has let me down again haha my problem was more if my car was getting slower more than if my dads 10 is faster, i guess im just getting used to the feel of the car

 

[jabba]

my problem was more if my car was getting slower more than if my dads 10 is faster, i guess im just getting used to the feel of the car

I had an Audi S4 turbo before the MS3, and on the forums you would get many people posting similar comments as you, saying that something was wrong with their car because it felt slower after a while. But after dynoing or doing a 3rd gear pull, the numbers proved otherwise: they just got used to the car.

Then they would chip the car to get that "fix" again, but eventually they felt the car was slow. So then they would upgrade the turbos to get 450 HP. But after a while, even that felt slow, so they would consider upgrading to GT turbos to get nearly 550 HP....

I should know, I was one of those people (luckily for me I sold the car before the mod bug ruined me financially)

 

[02stang951]

I had an Audi S4 turbo before the MS3, and on the forums you would get many people posting similar comments as you, saying that something was wrong with their car because it felt slower after a while. But after dynoing or doing a 3rd gear pull, the numbers proved otherwise: they just got used to the car.

Then they would chip the car to get that "fix" again, but eventually they felt the car was slow. So then they would upgrade the turbos to get 450 HP. But after a while, even that felt slow, so they would consider upgrading to GT turbos to get nearly 550 HP....

I should know, I was one of those people (luckily for me I sold the car before the mod bug ruined me financially)

thats good to know

 

[pjm1957]

Is there a reason you can't write in English?

 

[pjm1957]

sorry to say the 2010's are a little bit faster on top end because of the scoop mod raming cold air into the top mount it get alot colder then the previous speeds and they said that they twerked the ecu a little to incorparate the extra air fuel ratio which gives more power but lack there of the 08's are faster off the line and will beat a 2010 any day (dark)if u know how to driver so don't take ur dad from a roll go from a dead stop ABS OFF then see how u do.found info on u tube because i was piss that they ran a faster quater mile with damn near same car and that was the reason why(bow)

Is there a reason you can't post a reply in English?

 

[GoFast]

Is there a reason you can't post a reply in English?

Is there a reason you posted the same thing twice? keep in mind that this is an international forum and many different people from many walks of life post here. So, before you post judgmental things like that, please keep that in mind.

 

[SDSpeed3]

2010 MS3 weight: 3,245 lbs. 12.34 lb/HP
2009 MS3 weight: 3,153 lbs. 11.99 lb/HP

2010 is 92 lbs heavier

 

[8.5MS3]

hey guys sorry i didnt upload these earlier. Attached are pics of the 2nd gen under hood ducting and intake.

Not sure if its visible but around the perimeter of the hood shroud where it meets the TMIC there are holes to allow air to "bleed" into the engine bay. Obviously any benefits for more direct airflow can be compromised by this design. Im assuming they are there for cooling/heat rejection. Also I attached a pic of the airbox. Note the black hose w/ accordion style ribs. It seems that it pulls air from the front of the car just above the smile. It is by no means a ram air system as the tube has to many bends and turns to allow good flow.

 

[mckraut]

Can anyone else see the pics?