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Ah, memories. It's been four plus years with my 2000 milly since I wrote those gushing words of praise at the top of this post...and, what's that phrase...Time heals all wounds? Weeelll - time can create some doozies too.
The issue I was originally concerned about has, alas, come to pass. I am about to install my...third...THIRD supercharger in this car due to bad seals. I admit, two were bad before they went into the car. Howzzat?! Forge on, dear reader!...
1st one lasted approx 100,000 km then I started noticing the fatal telltale blue smoke at startup. Mazda confirmed the problem and...as my car was just outside warranty, offered to fix it for $7000. Yup...no typos there. $5000 for a new supercharger...and $2000 labour. They pointed out that I should be grateful becuase the compressor price had just been reduced from $7000...
It was then I really started looking into this issue and discovered PSE in the US -- so far as I know, were the only folks doing a proper rebuild of this blower. They know all about the fragile seals and go to some trouble to get them out (I believe they are both epoxied and heat shrunk into place) and it's quite difficult for the average joe to rebuild this unit. PSE uses a different material and can offer a two year unlimited mileage warranty as a result. [Edit: Oops! just looked at the paperwork on my PSE rebuild. That's two years period. From the ship date. No mention of mileage...]
$2000 still seemed rather steep (hindsight....sob) so I decided instead to go elsewhere and rolled the dice on ebay...twice. First unit cost me $1000 and was supposed to be a factory rebuild of the nose drive and otherwise flawless. It certainly looked good in the pics and in person. Just like this...
and this...
8 hours of installation effort later, with a buddy showing me how to do it, it was in the car...and proved to be bad, sucking as much or more oil than my original. The upstanding gent who sold it to me professed great consternation and also refused to refund any money. Hard lesson No. 1.
Next one I picked up was from a car that was being parted out. A friend had great luck with a used unit, so I decided to chance it. Certainly less than the first one! However this one was also bad. At least I was out "just" $200. Did the install myself part time over three days. Learned a lot about my motor, anyway...
So...Have I learned my lesson? Hopefully. My $2400 PSE unit should arrive this week. Turning in the core will get me $300 back I believe. Then I will tear the top of the motor down again and do this fiddly job one more time...
Now...none of this really answered any of your questions,but I wanted to set the stage as someone who has had some experience in this area...sadly.
OK, so you think you might be sucking oil into your motor through the blower? Sure fire way to find out quick is to take off the plastic Miller Cycle cover from the engine and open the inspection hatch on the top of the intake plumbing. Four or five bolts if I recall. Once open you will be able to see right down into the compressor housing. If the lobes are wet and/or there is oil pooling in there anywhere...you have bad compressor seals. Sort of like this...
and this...
Easy as that. If you want to be double sure, pull your front intercooler and tip it up. If oil runs out...you're a winnah! as they say. Only, this horse race definitely ain't no fun.
Sort of like this...
and this...
As for noise, all three compressors I had that went bad ran completely quietly, so lack of bearing noise isn't a reliable indicator. What I have heard of happening on badly leaking units is clatter from the lobes as they try (and fail) to compress the oil that they are sucking through the bearings. The sound is the bearings being forcibly deflected I guess. Now THAT will make some noise...
Now for your other questions.
Part nos? None I could find. I talked to PSE in the summer about getting a kit and they said they only do complete rebuilds and do not sell parts. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. I know some very talented, mechanically inclinded folks who have tried to disassemble this compressor. It's a huge PITA owing to the way the seals and bearings are installed. One guy had to weld bolts onto the backing plates just to pull them. I belive they both got them apart but neither managed to find the parts to rebuild them. I did hear of one guy on one of the Mazda sites who got a little further, but I can't remember who or where. Maybe google Lysholm rebuild and you will get lucky.
As for the procedure itself, I belive the manual calls for the removal of the intake manifolds front and back. Actually you can get away without doing that. If you remove the fuel rails you can just squeak the compressor out between them. Careful, though, it's awkward as all get out and if you don't pull straight up you will bend a compressor stud. In this shot below the front manifold is removed because of leaking valve cover gaskets (info to come). Also take note of that delicate-looking wire draped over the compressor. That's the knock sensor harness, which runs under the compressor. Be careful not to yank on that.
Other things to consider.
Get replacement copper washers for the high pressure fuel rails before tackling the job. There are three or four required when replacing the fuel system. Don't risk a fire due to leaks from reused washers.
It's also not a bad time to replace your plugs as they will probably be fouled and you have so much off the top of the motor it's much easier to find them.
Oh, and label your vacuum lines VERY carefully! Also be wary not to install any check valves backwards or you will be kicking yourself. They have faint embossed arrows indicating direction of vacuum flow.
It's also a great opportunity to inspect all your vacuum lines for cracks or wear. The vacuum Ts also should be inspected. I repaced a couple of mine and a few feet of line. (There is, I believe, about 20 feet of vacuum line under there.) It gets cooked by the heat as much of itis sandwiched between the motor and other plumbing.
Lotsa plumbing!
Other items to label carefully are the wiring harnesses on the solenoids fastened to the rear valve covers.
You will probably be able to reuse the metal gaskets above and below the compressor if this is the first time it has been pulled. As I'm on number three, I will probably opt for new ones.
It's also possible your valve cover gaskets may be leaking. Check for oil on the plug boots when you pull the coil packs. Now's the perfect time to pull those covers if you have leaks. I did. A lot like this...
which led to this...
Check the condition of your serpentine belt. Another item worth replacing at this point since you are this far into it.
You will also need to get a couple or five cans of brake cleaner to flush the oil out of your intercooler plumbing. Spray in one side, slosh around the air exchangers until they run clear. Also, dispose of the stuff properly -- not down the sewers!
Finally, get a torque wrench and pay attention to the bolt patterns for the induction plumbing when buttoning everything back up.
Now, what is unusual in your case (at least to me) is oil being sprayed externally. All my bad units leaked everything into the motor, nothing on the outside or getting on belts. Don't know what to tell you about that.
I hope some of this has been helpful. If I think of any other tips I will let you know.
