JonnyTheJet
Member
- :
- LaserBlue P5
I'd be down for a 4-2-1 header.
2.0L Protege Guys...
- Thread starter Kooldino
- Start date
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
I'd say go with mild steel with an option to coat? As far as price goes I think $300-$400 without the coating, + or - depending on the gains. I don't think that's out of the reach of most people, especially if it has decent gains.
I think MP3Racer has one in development now.
Even though I mostly deal with boost, I'd consider a header for the 3-400 range.
How much extra would you pay for stainless if that were an option?
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
To me it'd be relative to the cost difference between the mild and stainless. And there is the possible difference in labor for the production of the both of them. But I'm looking at it from the fabricators perspective.
from a protege owners perspective, the only way I'd pay higher for anything would be if the gains were really good. lets be honest selling anything over 400-450 for a part that doesn't yield anything more over the OBX isn't going to sell.
from a protege owners perspective, the only way I'd pay higher for anything would be if the gains were really good. lets be honest selling anything over 400-450 for a part that doesn't yield anything more over the OBX isn't going to sell.
JonnyTheJet
Member
- :
- LaserBlue P5
Hey Kooldino, any discounts available for the single runner intake mani for the mp5? PM me and let me know. Thanks.
Is the OBX a good part?
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
It's essentially an ebay special. I've had mine for almost 3 years without issue, and I haven't really seen any other issues posted on the forum. So I mean the quality is there, and it can be had for 100-250 depending on the seller.
Also it does give the best hp/$ gain vs any other N/A mod but that simply comes from opening up the super restrictive crap we have stock. Something actually tuned for our power-band could probably yield better HP and torque.
I'm going to PM LordWorm about this as he might be able to chime in on the subject.
Also it does give the best hp/$ gain vs any other N/A mod but that simply comes from opening up the super restrictive crap we have stock. Something actually tuned for our power-band could probably yield better HP and torque.
I'm going to PM LordWorm about this as he might be able to chime in on the subject.
Biggest problem with just about anything on the market right now is that they are too damned short. "shorty" headers are absolutely pointless - well ok not absolutely, but all powergains are made from slightly opening up the restriction in the stock pipe work - they do not afford any gain from scavenging because the "tuned length" is tuned for upwards of 15 000rpm (and our motors wont rev that high...even if they could, having usable power up that high would be daft).
Idealy you want something long - but that will delete the first cat, which will most likely make the mod not emmissions legal - but the gains could be somewhat astronomical.
4-2-1 isn't hte best way to get power, but it does offer you a wider, flatter powerband which may be more up everyone's alley. if a 4-2-1 was on the cards, i'd suggest a "stepped" 4-2-1 but the math to work it out, and the expense in fabricating such a thing would put it beyond most protege owners i would think.
On the flip side, a good 4-1 header tuned and biased for midrange horsepower would be less complex to build, require less work at the merges and would provide a good turn of power for everyone. I've also actually GOT a design for a perfectly tuned length 4-1 header which equalises the lengths early so the final length can be chopped or lengthened to move the powerband up or down. Willing to let the design go in exchange for a complete header (made the same offer to corksport but didn't hear back!). Theoretical power gain should exceed anything on the market today (would absolutely destroy any 4-2-1 you could buy, or likely could design). Unfortunately i haven't had the time, patience, or need to calculate the location of the stock O2 sensors in this design - so that would need to be determined.
Final point for now, the most critical part of the header is going to be the collector. It is important that a proper "pyramid" style collector is used to provide optimal transition to the exhaust pipe and amplify the scavenging effect. This are somewhat difficult to fabricate but there are a number of exhaust suppliers in the USA who do a "slip fit" off the shelf merge collector that would do the job nicely.
Kooldino, if you want to contact me i'm more than happy to discuss. For the whole shebang, in stainless, you'd probably be looking at up to $600 USD for the unit i'd thing, depending on volume, materials etc - but it would be the single biggest "killer" NA mod for the FSDE (unless an NA specific tunnel ram intake manifold is made, in which case that, mated to a killer header, would put the engine into some respectable NA power territory).
Idealy you want something long - but that will delete the first cat, which will most likely make the mod not emmissions legal - but the gains could be somewhat astronomical.
4-2-1 isn't hte best way to get power, but it does offer you a wider, flatter powerband which may be more up everyone's alley. if a 4-2-1 was on the cards, i'd suggest a "stepped" 4-2-1 but the math to work it out, and the expense in fabricating such a thing would put it beyond most protege owners i would think.
On the flip side, a good 4-1 header tuned and biased for midrange horsepower would be less complex to build, require less work at the merges and would provide a good turn of power for everyone. I've also actually GOT a design for a perfectly tuned length 4-1 header which equalises the lengths early so the final length can be chopped or lengthened to move the powerband up or down. Willing to let the design go in exchange for a complete header (made the same offer to corksport but didn't hear back!). Theoretical power gain should exceed anything on the market today (would absolutely destroy any 4-2-1 you could buy, or likely could design). Unfortunately i haven't had the time, patience, or need to calculate the location of the stock O2 sensors in this design - so that would need to be determined.
Final point for now, the most critical part of the header is going to be the collector. It is important that a proper "pyramid" style collector is used to provide optimal transition to the exhaust pipe and amplify the scavenging effect. This are somewhat difficult to fabricate but there are a number of exhaust suppliers in the USA who do a "slip fit" off the shelf merge collector that would do the job nicely.
Kooldino, if you want to contact me i'm more than happy to discuss. For the whole shebang, in stainless, you'd probably be looking at up to $600 USD for the unit i'd thing, depending on volume, materials etc - but it would be the single biggest "killer" NA mod for the FSDE (unless an NA specific tunnel ram intake manifold is made, in which case that, mated to a killer header, would put the engine into some respectable NA power territory).
Some other ideas, NA specific of course 
* Long rod and high comp piston kit - 3SGTE rods modded to suit would require some crank machining to work. SR20 rods are not as long but would only require big-end machining on the rod. Insane option would be a de-stroker kit (FPDE crank) with long rods to suit (pushes close to 1.75:1 rod ratio)
* NA version of the Speed Circuit Head
* Dry sump set up (!!!!! would work for turbo too..... must must must include external oil pumps... stage 3 sort of setup... hell yeah)
* Bolt in surge tank and external pump set up (boot mounted) - again useful for turbo or highly strung NA motors that are tracked.
* caster and camber tops for the front struts.
that is all.
* Long rod and high comp piston kit - 3SGTE rods modded to suit would require some crank machining to work. SR20 rods are not as long but would only require big-end machining on the rod. Insane option would be a de-stroker kit (FPDE crank) with long rods to suit (pushes close to 1.75:1 rod ratio)
* NA version of the Speed Circuit Head
* Dry sump set up (!!!!! would work for turbo too..... must must must include external oil pumps... stage 3 sort of setup... hell yeah)
* Bolt in surge tank and external pump set up (boot mounted) - again useful for turbo or highly strung NA motors that are tracked.
* caster and camber tops for the front struts.
that is all.
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
What he said....lol
I think there is room for something with proven (and that's the key) power gains for the FS. the OBX is the common header that everyone knows. If you produced a header that outperformed it, which really wouldn't be to hard, I think it would find its place. As you would be the only one that makes it.
I think there is room for something with proven (and that's the key) power gains for the FS. the OBX is the common header that everyone knows. If you produced a header that outperformed it, which really wouldn't be to hard, I think it would find its place. As you would be the only one that makes it.
obx gains are pretty marginal... compared to a correctly designed header.
Thats neccessary for any header with long runners (i.e. what we all want) - well, unless you had an epic spaghetti header, but that would look strange and cost a crap load due to all the radical bends, and stupid cut and shut work that would need to go on.
Design i had made up had only 1 semi-radical bend in it, but was relatively straight forward otherwise. Dont think Dino wants to build my header tho :'
'(
